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Loose towbar


 
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ericd
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 0:31    Post subject: Loose towbar Reply with quote

Found myself at the front end of a 3 car shunt today, Vectra at the back now has no front end, Zafira in the middle now has no rear end and a Trooper towball signature in the front end. Both rear towbar/bumper bracket bolts are loose, thread was worn to start with. Anyone had the chassis holes re-threaded before, can you recommend thread/bolt spec. I spent quite a bit on chassis welding for this year's MOT, no apparent damage there, wouldn't want to loose the truck but it's primary use is towing the 'van so I need this fixing properly  Crying or Very sad
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Eric

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scj103
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 20:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Havnt had it done in this specific instance, but have had to use two techniques to fit a bar to a freelandy (not mine before anyone gets upset) the first was to weld inside the encapsulated nut, then drill out, and then retap the thread (!) and the second was to weld the bar in place.  If you have got a good chassis, and are at all concerned about the bolts/threads, it doesnt hurt to do belt and braces type solutions...you might also want to fit a breakaway clipping point to the chassis rather than the bar, so if the bar did break away, trailer brakes would still be applied...
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 22:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have gone one further and fitted a substantial piece of chain on the tow bar and another on
both the boat trailer and the caravan. I join them with a big padlock!
We don't plan on having them unhitched and stolen at a services.
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markymoan
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 22:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you not just drill and sleeve the chassis? that way you can use nut&bolt  Idea
Its the same as they do on normal cars, the hole is drilled then a piece of tube inserted to stop the chassis crushing when you dog the nuts up.
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scj103
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 23:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was how it was done on my escort, only when i pulled the bar off, found that because the chassis wasnt clamped itsself, that the holes had become ovals as the bar pulled and pushed around...might not be so clever on something towing really heavy trailers...unless you sleeve it and then weld the sleeve ends to the chassis/floorpan?
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ericd
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 1:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although I cant weld myself, I know a man who can, the problem is with the drilling. The bolt holes are above the bottom edge of the rear inner wing so can't get a drill into the gap between wing and chassis, and holes run square on to the cross member centre so I cant fit a sleeve ( did this with an old Renault towbar kit ) as the bolt end would emerge inside the cross member. I've even considered masonry bolt fastenings which would expand and jam in the hole, but don't think I'd trust that one, or passing a threaded rod fully through the cross member but I'd need a hole through the wing and a very long drill bit to do that. I think a weld to the chassis is the only option as I'm towing a double axle caravan and don't want to take any chances. Thanks for the suggestions guys, if I come up with a better solution I'll let you know, got until Easter to ponder it Rolling Eyes
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Philp
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

My pickup has a massive rear step bumper made from about 8mm steel with a built in receiver type tow hitch and thats welded to the chassis and is massively strong.  The only trouble with a welded towbar can be illustrated exactly by whats happened to you.  With a bolted on one the bolts tend to be the weak link in the equation, get a smack on the towbar and they will ebnd or even snap.  If its welded on then all those forces get transmitted into your chassis and thats how you end up with a buckled rear chassis and floor.  I'd try and do what mark suggested and sleeve it or even cut the bottom off the chassis, grind the captive nut off the inside if thats how its done, weld a new one on and reweld the chassis.  Yo8u could even add a plate insdie to reinforce the area which would make welding it on easier.
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ericd
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 11:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Phil, I'd agree about the risk of buckling the chassis which is why welding it would be my last resort. I'll take on board tips about fitting the bolts.
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Sye
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 11:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi. I think you will find that the threads are M12 fine. You can re-cut the threads to M12 coarse without having to fill the holes with weld because M12 fine pitch is 1mm, and M12 coarse pitch is 1.75mm. Hope this helps Wink
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scj103
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 11:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sye wrote:
Hi. I think you will find that the threads are M12 fine. You can re-cut the threads to M12 coarse without having to fill the holes with weld because M12 fine pitch is 1mm, and M12 coarse pitch is 1.75mm. Hope this helps Wink


Now THAT looks like a plan!

I shall remember that for future projects...just need a really good tap set!
Very Happy
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ericd
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 12:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

scj103 wrote:
Sye wrote:
Hi. I think you will find that the threads are M12 fine. You can re-cut the threads to M12 coarse without having to fill the holes with weld because M12 fine pitch is 1mm, and M12 coarse pitch is 1.75mm. Hope this helps Wink


Now THAT looks like a plan!

I shall remember that for future projects...just need a really good tap set!
Very Happy


I'll second that, just need to learn how to use a tap set, any tips welcomed Smile
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Eric

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Sye
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 12:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

self explanitary really.. Turn the tap half a turn at a time then undo to snap the cut that you have started in the metal. Remembering that patience is needed to tap a hole. If you snap the tap, you won't get it out. Crying or Very sad
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ericd
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 13:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Sye, anyone recommend a decent quality /value for money tap set ?
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scj103
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 14:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best suggestion for something like this, given the size and specific nature of what you want to do, I would suggest going to a tools reseller, who knows their stuff - just had a look at one place I get lots from, and the stats cant tell if they are M sizes or MM...and the '12' is a 1.5mm thread...so they might not be such a plan...if I were doing what you are, I would go to Machine Mart (!) or my local tool shop and ask them to get in if they didnt have, the very specific tap and handle to fit it...
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