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Jaxdad Newbie
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Oxford
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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:02 Post subject: Seat renovation |
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I've recently bought a swb trooper and the drivers seat is a bit *beep*. Being a bit poor I was wondering if anyone has taken these seats apart and reconditioned them? If so is it easy to do or am i going to swear a lot?
Cheers |
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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:02 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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DavidUK1 **
Joined: 28 Jul 2008 Posts: 124 Location: Cheshire, UK
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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 22:42 Post subject: |
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My drivers seat became faulty some time ago. This weekend I decided to fix it. I removed it and the passenger seat from the car which is fairly straightforward. Stripped both seats down and swapped the seat base foam, springs and seat base cover. The broken spring on the driver seat I was able to stretch and re use on the passenger side, the rest of the original drivers seat was not too bad just tired. The passenger seat does not get anything like the same use and my wife is a lot lighter.
Going at it sensibly it probably took about 4 hours but could be done quicker.
The relavent info on seatb removal is in the workshop manual. If you need more info P.M. me.
David _________________
1998 Trooper Citation. 3.0L 4JX1 Engine. Long Wheel Base. No Mods.
Reason for having: Towing (Boat 2.25 Tonnes last time I weighed it) |
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Jaxdad Newbie
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Oxford
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Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:36 Post subject: |
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Cheers David,
Yup, found iot in the manual now.
I hadn't considered swapping over the seat internals with the passenger side, what a good idea. This weekends job is the brakes so I'm going to pencil it in for next weekend!
Many thanks
Mark |
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DavidUK1 **
Joined: 28 Jul 2008 Posts: 124 Location: Cheshire, UK
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Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:55 Post subject: |
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Brakes aren't too bad I replaced all pipes two years ago.
Make sure you put the caliper pins back in the correct holes there is a very very minor difference in size. They are marked with something like and alpha on the end of the pin and adjacent to the corresponding hole. There is a reference to it in the manual.
Do check to see if you think the profile of the foam on each seat is similar. I think there is a slight difference in the thickness and possibly density of fowm on the outer edge of the seat as originally installed possibly to give extra support getting in and out of the car. Overall it was a big improvement in comfort and I think my back was being thrown out because of the seat. If necessary it is no big deal to get a seat from a scrap vehicle and swap the passenger bits back to the correct side.
I did have to cut the seat cover to accommodate the seat back fixings when I swapped the covers over but it is no big deal being hidden by the trim on the outer side and the centre console on the inner. Also do slide the seat forward and back to access the fixing bolts and nuts holding the rear foot rest in place, I did not have the sense to do that when I removed the first seat. |
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Rhanagar Lifetime member
Joined: 12 Jan 2010 Posts: 4861 Location: Preston, Lancs.
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Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 16:13 Post subject: |
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If you are replacing the hard pipes try and get some Copper/Nickel as opposed to normal Copper stuff. Its a bit more money by a few quid but will last far far longer than straight copper stuff. Its harder to bend but will take more punishment ... especially if your off-roading. _________________ 1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition
Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS
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DavidUK1 **
Joined: 28 Jul 2008 Posts: 124 Location: Cheshire, UK
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Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 16:23 Post subject: |
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Rhanagar wrote: |
If you are replacing the hard pipes try and get some Copper/Nickel as opposed to normal Copper stuff. Its a bit more money by a few quid but will last far far longer than straight copper stuff. Its harder to bend but will take more punishment ... especially if your off-roading. |
I second that. Whilst I used copper and don't have a problem yet, I wished I had used something else, what is the rust resistant properties of copper/nickel same as or better than original fit or copper only?
Jaxdad are you having to replace pipes? Are you competent/confident enough to make your own? I bought and used a "Laser Pipe Flaring Tool" on eebuygum ( Sorry can't get a link to work, maybe not posted enough since re-registering) and for some reason E baaay (sic) is posting as eblag.
I found it pretty good on copper, says it will do other alloys but won't do steel. It was possible to make a flare with pipe still on the vehicle if necessary. Also would recommend a bending tool if you don't already have them.
Last edited by DavidUK1 on Fri Mar 05, 2010 17:12; edited 1 time in total |
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Rhanagar Lifetime member
Joined: 12 Jan 2010 Posts: 4861 Location: Preston, Lancs.
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Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 17:07 Post subject: |
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Original fit I have found varies on manufacturer ranging from Copper to Steel. I had one line replaced on my Cavalier over a year ago with Copper/Nickel and it hadn't corroded at all. It lasts far longer than straight Copper stuff. Most pipe flaring tools can handle it as well. _________________ 1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition
Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS
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Jaxdad Newbie
Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Oxford
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Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 23:20 Post subject: |
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No brake pipes this time, just pads. I'll make a not of the pin positions though. |
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DavidUK1 **
Joined: 28 Jul 2008 Posts: 124 Location: Cheshire, UK
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:40 Post subject: |
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For the record, although I swapped the foam from the passenger seat base to the driver seat base I do feel the driver seat base is still a little soft on the outer edge. I don't know whether the density of the foam is greater on the outer edge of the seats as installed. I had assumed the foam would be the the same for both sides. |
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