Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

flashman · **** Joined: 16 Aug 2003 Posts: 325 Location: Portsmouth

Has anyone changed the shocks on a MK3 or later LWB.
My recent visit to the wetlands of Yorkshire seems to have blown the front and rear shocks on the n/s. Is it as simple as just undoing the nut and bolt at the top and bottom. Or does a more sinister fate await me if I do that.
Any recommendations as to what is the best type to fit. No off roading but a good deal of towing is expected.
_________________
Flashman

I'll snap it if I can

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unclealbert · ** Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Posts: 83 Location: Towcester

I fitted Bilsteins to my Land Rover and they are fantastic and to repace the shockers on the Troop is the next job

The Bilstein part nos are:

BE5-6664
B46-1738

Famous Four do them at a reasonable price - 01507 609444

Looking at the job, I would say that if you support the chassis on axle stands and have a trolley jack under the wishbone to control the suspension., there should be no major problems

Regards

David

CRK · ** Joined: 20 May 2003 Posts: 62 Location: Bedfordshire

In theory the shock absorber replacement is straightforward, and as suggested either use axle stands (safer) or as I did, a trolley jack under the chassis and the standard bottle jack under the axle/suspension so you can lower/raise it to match the 'at rest' shock length.

On my 3.0TD I found the front ones OK (get a very good pair of mole grips and soak top nut in WD40 for about a week!) but the rear ones a complete pain in the *beep*. Consequently I have 3 new shocks and one old one fitted at the moment!! Embarassed

The top rear bolts rust up and are very hard to get good leaverage on. I have now got replacement top bolts from Isuzu so that I can cut/butcher the remaining seized bolt and then replace it. My tip is to get 2 new bolts before you start the job - unfortunatelty they aren't cheap if you get them from main dealer, and you have to order the nut and bolt as individual items! Total cost about £15 for the set of 2 bolts & 2 nuts!

Best of luck Razz

Andyally · * Joined: 22 Jul 2003 Posts: 21 Location: Portsmouth

Hi,

I've just replaced the standard dampers and rear springs on my 3.0TDi LWB Trooper with an 'Old Man Emu' up-rated system, which was obtained from Frog Island 4x4.

This has given the rear a 35mm lift over standard and by adjusting the torsion bars I've also increased front ride height by 30mm.

The job proved to be straight forward, but I did have to butcher one of the front damper top fixings to get the old unit off. A trolley jack is highly advised for changing out the rear springs, as the axle has to be dropped.

The new system is far more progressive than the original set-up and the increase in ride height has not caused any significant increase in role or took-under in tight bends.

The whole job has cost approx £400, sounds alot, but when you compare the Isuzu parts price at nearly £800 !!! this now seems a bargin.

The added benefit of this set-up is that increased ground clearence via the use of 31" tyres is now possible without fear of them scrubbing on the bodywork.

Don't be worried, if you are handy with the spanners you'll be OK.

flashman · **** Joined: 16 Aug 2003 Posts: 325 Location: Portsmouth

Thanks for the info chaps. Used to changing things over the years but without a good old manual I was not sure if when you get the old ones off its a case of needing a new'whatsit' before replacing. Got caught out years ago like that. Had to do a 10 mile round trip bike ride back to the supplier. Now the dealer is 25 miles each way i'd never make it. The bikes well passed its use by date, so is my frame. Embarassed

I'll start with WD40 now and see what tomorrow brings.
_________________
Flashman

I'll snap it if I can

steveforster9 · *** Joined: 13 Jul 2004 Posts: 167 Location: Leicester

Andyally

How did you adjust the front torsion bars - I've had a look at mine (3.0DT)& cannot work out how to do it. When I had a Ford Maverick (no jokes please - it was quite a tool off-road!) adjustment of the bars was simply a matter of undoing the locknut & tightening the adjusting bolt which was located at the end of the bar under the front seats. The Trooper torsion bars do not have the same type of adjustment as far as I can tell. Any help please?

Regards
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Steve F

1999 3.0DT LWB

Paul Rainbow · ***** Joined: 19 Dec 2003 Posts: 549

If it is the same as the Mk1, then look under the sill where the driver & passenger sits and you will see the end of the torsion bar coming from the suspension and ending in a big nut. Twist the nut for height changes.

It is tight, and take the weight off the wheels & suspension first.

steveforster9 · *** Joined: 13 Jul 2004 Posts: 167 Location: Leicester

No locknuts then? Is it just the load on the bolt stops it from loosening? Or am I just overanalysing Question

_________________
Steve F

1999 3.0DT LWB

Andyally · * Joined: 22 Jul 2003 Posts: 21 Location: Portsmouth

Steve,

Adjusting the front torsion bars is straight forward. Here is the method I used:

1 - Park your Trooper on level ground with front wheels straight ahead and measure your current ride height (distance from centre of wheel to underside of wheel arch). This gives you your datum.
2 - Jack the front of the Trooper up and support on axle stands (make sure the wheels are clear of the ground and have enough clearence for adjustment).
3 - Get under the truck and follow the torsion bar back from the lower control arm to approx in-line with the back of the front door, where you will find a large bolt. This is the ride height adjustment.
4 - Tightening this bolt will increase ride height (clockwise). Tighten in 180deg stages and make a record of how many turns you put on so you can return to original settings if required. Suggest you try 6 turns to start with.
5 - Once you have put on 6 turns on both sides, drop the Trooper to the ground and drive around the block to settle the new adjustment.
6 - With the Trooper on level ground check again the ride height as before. Continue this procedure until you have required ride height.
NOTE - Ride height should not be increased beyond 3/4 control arm travel to the upper bump stop. 30 to 38mm increase would be about right, but it depends on what your original setting was.

Hope this is clear enough.

Cheers,

Andyally · * Joined: 22 Jul 2003 Posts: 21 Location: Portsmouth

Steve,

There are no locking nuts or split pins etc... as you say the adjustment bolt is held by the turning force of the torsion bar.

According to my manual, there is a pin at the other end which holds the torsion bar to the control arm, but it is not necessary to remove this for ride height adjustment.

Cheers,

steveforster9 · *** Joined: 13 Jul 2004 Posts: 167 Location: Leicester

Thanks all,

I'm going to have a go at this when I get back off my hols - I'll update you then

Regards
_________________
Steve F

1999 3.0DT LWB

Breach · ** Joined: 18 May 2003 Posts: 116 Location: Middlesex

Hi,
Just replaced the front shocks on my MK1, with Pro Comps ES9000.
I looked at Old Man Amu but they were twice the price so ended with the above.
Anyway these seem to be fine.
Replacement was straight forward enough.
Martin

gotalast · Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 22:15 Post subject:

My front shocks were leaking just before a long contintal trip, I had great difficulty finding any info on alternative shocks on web sites. They were great if you wanted land rover but mention trooper or Isuzu and I am sure you are familiar with the situation. Original spec were 99.95 + VAT so I eventually found some Old Man Emu for just over half that price. Fitting was very easy. Just need to save up to replace those tire rear spirngs that spent the wine carrying half of the holiday in intimate contact with the bump stops.

nap · * Joined: 07 Feb 2005 Posts: 42

see this link http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/projects/roundtrooper/?