View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Dibblah *
Joined: 21 Sep 2012 Posts: 13
|
Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 23:14 Post subject: Replacing the fuel tank (Full guide!) |
|
|
I haven't seen a good rundown of exactly how to replace the fuel tank - So I made one.
https://sites.google.com/site/trooperdieseltankremoval/
(edited by Mod. to add link)
Comments would be great, I'm sure I've done lots wrong in the guide.
Cheers,
Allan. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Google Sponsor
|
Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 23:14 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
|
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ladydriver ****
Joined: 30 Apr 2006 Posts: 327 Location: Worcestershire
|
Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:01 Post subject: |
|
|
couldn't find it on google but if you pm one of the moderators with the full link they may be able to put it up for you in the meantime. _________________ JDW
1999 3.0l Citation SWB |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ladydriver ****
Joined: 30 Apr 2006 Posts: 327 Location: Worcestershire
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dibblah *
Joined: 21 Sep 2012 Posts: 13
|
Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:41 Post subject: |
|
|
Wow! Thanks To be honest, it's not as hard as it initially looks. Given a grinder, it's fairly easy. However, I really, really don't see why they went with:
1. A fuel tank that actively gathers gunk on top. It's meant to be an off-roader!
2. Bolts that are impossible to get to with the chassis fully assembled.
And I certainly wouldn't want to try this with a petrol tank.
Cheers,
Allan. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
TrooperDan *******
Joined: 01 Mar 2010 Posts: 2337 Location: Near York, E Yorks
|
Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 15:48 Post subject: |
|
|
the underseal got put on in the UK by the importer when new. Top of tank is a hard place to cover effectively. _________________ www.independentisuzu.co.uk |
|
Back to top |
|
|
MikT725 *****
Joined: 16 Nov 2008 Posts: 684 Location: West Yorkshire
|
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 19:28 Post subject: |
|
|
Well done Dibblah thats a fantastic how to _________________ 1999 3.1td SWB Trooper. RIP
2004 3.1td LWB
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Red Robbo Lifetime member
Joined: 17 Feb 2008 Posts: 4129 Location: Where ever I happen to be in my imagination but mainly Far East Sussex
|
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 20:13 Post subject: |
|
|
Good one.... _________________ Khotso........... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Twister Moderator
Joined: 21 Jul 2005 Posts: 2340 Location: Stockport
|
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 21:19 Post subject: |
|
|
Top write up that, nice one
I've done this job on 3 motors now, and it never gets any easier.
I did make a point of using stainless hardware, with copious amounts of copper grease when I refitted the last one, just in the hope that it might make it a bit easier to remove if I ever have to do it again.
Made this thread a sticky too. _________________
"Tongue-tied and Twisted; just an Earth-bound misfit, I..." - PF
LTM # 000002 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
boritz ***
Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 204 Location: Victoria, Australia
|
Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:40 Post subject: |
|
|
Very nice how to Well done! _________________ Aussie 1997 3.2V6 SOHC 6VD1 Holden Jackaroo SE (Isuzu Trooper/Bighorn/Monterey) 5-speed manual, rear LSD, front Lokka (manual free-wheel hubs). |
|
Back to top |
|
|
boritz ***
Joined: 16 Aug 2007 Posts: 204 Location: Victoria, Australia
|
Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:48 Post subject: |
|
|
Dibblah wrote: |
...Given a grinder...I certainly wouldn't want to try this with a petrol tank... |
Too true
Disconnect and plug fuel lines, drain petrol and fill tank with water if grinding is required.
Incidentally, I presume all that rust is due to winter ice salting?
In Oz the Trooper is not generally prone to rust unless used often on beaches.
Mine is a 1997 with zero rust (i.e no beach runs). _________________ Aussie 1997 3.2V6 SOHC 6VD1 Holden Jackaroo SE (Isuzu Trooper/Bighorn/Monterey) 5-speed manual, rear LSD, front Lokka (manual free-wheel hubs). |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dibblah *
Joined: 21 Sep 2012 Posts: 13
|
Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:49 Post subject: |
|
|
Thank you! I would edit it to add the address in the first post, but I still can't
Cheers,
Allan. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dibblah *
Joined: 21 Sep 2012 Posts: 13
|
Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:54 Post subject: |
|
|
boritz wrote: |
Dibblah wrote: |
...Given a grinder...I certainly wouldn't want to try this with a petrol tank... |
Incidentally, I presume all that rust is due to winter ice salting?
In Oz the Trooper is not generally prone to rust unless used often on beaches.
Mine is a 1997 with zero rust (i.e no beach runs). |
No, in the UK the roads are heavily salted, which causes similar salt corrosion (especially in Scotland, where it's colder)
Cheers,
Allan. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
JeffH **
Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 96 Location: Isle of Arran, Scotland
|
Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 20:15 Post subject: |
|
|
Superb job with the walk through Dibblah! My fuel pipe sprung a leak where it joins the tank just last week and I was humming and ah-ing over whether to drop it into the garage but your guide convinced me to have a go. Milners are out of the tank I need (breather in front of filler) and have no clue when the next batch will be in so anyone know a good alternative? Anyone tried Fuel Tanks Direct?
Wife says NO! to cutting out the rear deck of our Mk4 Citation, so I can unplug the pipes....Bummer.
Regards, Jeff. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
JeffH **
Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 96 Location: Isle of Arran, Scotland
|
Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 11:22 Post subject: Fuel Tanks Direct |
|
|
No sign of Milners getting the correct tank in so took a chance on the Fuel Tanks Direct site.
Tank arrived on a next day delivery, is the exact same part as the Milners one and was cheaper too on price and delivery so +1 to them for that.
Regards, Jeff. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dibblah *
Joined: 21 Sep 2012 Posts: 13
|
Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:40 Post subject: |
|
|
Cool. Hope the install goes well for you!
Cheers,
Allan. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|