Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

madra · * Joined: 26 Apr 2006 Posts: 44 Location: Manchester

OK. i've just changed the front pads on my 1990 2,8TD today.

first time i've done brakes on my trooper - used to be a landy man until i got sick of pouring money down the drain! - so, while i know one end of a spanner from the other, bear in mind my trooper is a jap import, with the associated lack of documentation that entails and consider me a "dumb newbie" for the purposes of this thread. Smile

anyway, first thing i notice is that the trooper has a hinged caliper. nice touch! - undo a bolt, swing the caliper up out of the way, fit the new pads and swing the caliper back down into position. much less hassle than the dismantling practically the whole *beeb*' brake housing, which i'm used to.

only problem is, the old pads were almost worn down to the steel, so when i fit the new ones, the caliper disnae want to go back in position without a fight. not such a problem on the piston side, as i just could just undo the bleed nipple and push the piston back in, but on the non-piston side, the fit was very tight. so much so that the pad is pressing hard against the disc and -while i can still turn the wheel by hand - it ain't exactly "free moving".

i've had a good look round the caliper and brake assembly and i cannae for the life of me find anything that looks remotely like it would adjust the tension of the caliper against the disc. so [finally! Very Happy

] my dumb newbie questions...

if the brakes aren't self-adjusting, can somone point me in the direction of the adjuster? [i can post photos if needed]

if the brakes are self-adjusting, is it normal for the wheel to feel this tight, until they have adjusted?

[off for a tentaative spin round the block now, to see if the pads bed in... or the wheels start glowing red hot!]
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:::Matski::: · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 16:57 Post subject:

See the naff handbrake thread.

There are some pages from the hand book that will help re ajustment.
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

markymoan · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 17:00 Post subject:

Its called a floating caliper, as well as hinge up it should also slide off the pin, maybe theres a bit of muck in there stopping it.
I would slide the caliper off then clean and grease the pin Smile

Ps. i take it you mean the front
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madra · * Joined: 26 Apr 2006 Posts: 44 Location: Manchester

markymoan · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 17:10 Post subject:

The pin also has a thinner part near the bottom, that is were it will snap Rolling Eyes

If it does you are into £70 for a caliper and £6.50 for a pin.
I did it the other day Evil or Very Mad

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madra · * Joined: 26 Apr 2006 Posts: 44 Location: Manchester

ouch! - maybe i'll double the amount of plusgas and halve the amount of mindless violence, then!
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Philp · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 17:22 Post subject:

Agood soak in plus gas and lots of wiggling and tapping and after that a good clean up, remove any rust with some emery or replace the pins if really bad and then lots of coppergrease.

The piston actually screws back into the caliper rather than pushes, I use a pair of mole grips and twist it around with them.
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Phil

96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus

markymoan · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 17:24 Post subject:

Yup my bar and lump hammer did it no good at all Sad

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madra · * Joined: 26 Apr 2006 Posts: 44 Location: Manchester

well, after a quick nip to B&Q for a new blowtorch [my old one seems to have gone 'walkabout'], i spent the best part of an afternoon, alternately giving the caliper a good roasting and then smacking it with a lump-hammer to try and shift it off the pin - a task not made any easier by the fact that it seemed cunningly designed so it would never sit at quite the right angle to hit properly. Evil or Very Mad

after a long unsuccesful battle and, as a last resort, i gave the caliper another good blast with the blowtorch, flipped it over and smacked it from the other side [so pushing it further onto the pin]. to my delight and delictation, it finally moved, sliding right down onto the pin. and from there, now that it had moved, i was able to flip the caliper over again and [not without some serious hammer work] finally knock the bloody thing off the pin. and the other one submitted to the same technique too Very Happy

incredible how tenacious a tiny bit of rust can be! - the pin and its orifice [ooh! er!] in the caliper had the tiniest coating of rust, which came off with a couple of rubs of wire wool, after which i could slide the caliper would slide on and of the pin with no force at all. incredible how a fraction of a mm of rust could have resisted several hours severe pounding with a lump hammer!

oh well, another epic battle for the "boring motoring anecdotes" collection - and my trooper no longer needs the length of a fotoball field to stop in! Wink

thanks for the helpful advice, folks!
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markymoan · Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 0:09 Post subject:

I'll remember to knock it on rather than off next time,
Glad you did it and thanks for the info Very Happy

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:::Matski::: · Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 0:48 Post subject:

Yeah a good point that, this works with nuts too.

Crack them by tightening first.

It's the sort of thing that you learn but don't necessarily remember when you see these threads.

Nice one, now don't forget the grease........
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!