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3.0L bad starting


 
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pintail
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Joined: 17 Nov 2013
Posts: 16
Location: norfolk

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 17:11    Post subject: 3.0L bad starting Reply with quote

Hi, new here , I have a starting problem on my 3.0L 2003/4 trooper, it  spins over for some time & starts on 1 cly. then 2 cly etc. then runs with a little white smoke then that clears & then the engine runs Ok, once it has been started it will start up well for the rest of the day. If I leave it say overnight it will struggle to start again. If I prime the hand pump before I try to start it will start up a LOT better, I have undone the bleed screw on the hand pump & hand pumped it & no air seems to come out, only fuel. I have had a look to try to find the return fuel pipe from the head so I can put a non return valve in it but cannot find it any where, (where is it, has any got a picture ?).  Do I need a new hand pump &/or a non return valve. I have checked the glow plugs & they are shot, one @ 35 ohms one @ 255 ohms one @ 200 ohms & one @ 375 ohms. It has been serviced by a main dealer form new, & just spent a week in the dealers for servicing & checking for the bad starting but they said it they could find nothing wrong with it, also just fitted two new battery's to it.

 many thanks.

 Pintail.
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pintail
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Location: norfolk

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 17:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I should have added that it was starting ok until a few weeks ago, & when priming the hand pump there doesn't seem to be much resistance there, I will try find someone who a 3.0l so I can try there pump.


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eithan h
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 19:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

when priming it it should go hard, if it doesn't then try unscrewing the filter and checking the little flap of metal held down with one screw is flat to the body this is a valve and needs to be flat to shut off.
i'm gonna regret this bit but mine has just started to do it lol fires once first thing in the morning then dies then keep it cranking over and they gradually kick in 1 cylinder at a time followed by clouds of smoke. mines already got a one way valve in but i noticed yesterday my primer doesn't work so i've got to check that now.
the return line is a rubber pipe that is held on to a small finger type casting that bolts to the back of the cylinder head and the pipe comes off of it just under the inlet manifold, it's normally held in place by a white pinch clip
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pintail
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Joined: 17 Nov 2013
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Location: norfolk

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 19:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi eitham h, I will go outside now & have look to see if I can see it.

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Hunter
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 20:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bad pipes on top of tank !!!!!
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pintail
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 20:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

So many pipes,  I cannot see anything bolted or coming off the back of the cylinder head, all I can see at the moment is a small pipe coming from some where under the inlet manifold then going to a tee, one side of the tee going to a rubber pipe that joins to a small metal pipe along the bulk head to the off side into some sort of sensor along with some other rubber pipes, the other side of the tee goes into what looks like it could be a non return valve, & the other side of that then goes into a steel pipe that goes down along the chassis rail to wards the back of the car. I will have to have a look in day light. May be the best way is to trace the return line from the tank up to the engine bay & see where it goes. ( hope that all makes senses ).

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pintail
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 20:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Hunter, hope not, but if the pipes were bad & sucking in air would it not start or run, at the moment it will start & run & it goes like a train, & when I prime it I have not seen any coming from the bleed screw, But I could be wrong ( the wife always tells me I'm wrong lol).

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Hunter
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 20:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like what mine went like ..

Easy test is : put air line in filler neck with a rag round it ,
then put some air in .. if pipes are bad it will push fuel out .

My one use to take near 15-20 seconds to start then would start all day after .

Thats what I did anyway . Took 10 seconds to find problem .
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pintail
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 20:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

HI Hunter, Thanks for the info  I will give it try tomorrow.

 Pintail.
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pintail
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 14:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update, tried to start it today did not start after about 20 seconds, used the hand primer then it started after 5 seconds bit of white smoke, then I stopped it. Put a latex glove over the hand primer pump with some cable ties & left it for about 4 hours, went out to start it & fired up almost straight away never done before, no white smoke, will try it tomorrow. Now going to order a new hand pump & try that, had a look for that return pipe but I still cannot see it will have a look when  I fit the pump.
 

Pintail.
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pintail
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Joined: 17 Nov 2013
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Location: norfolk

PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 22:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, it started well today, got new hand pump & filter today & fitted it, also found the return pipe at last, the hose was loose on the head & just pulled off. I have now fitted a new hose & clip & made a loop up the bulk & back down again & fitted a non return valve & reconnected to the old return pipe, also all around where the return pipe comes of the head it quite oily, so it could have been leaking fuel from the pipe, any way I hope this fixes the bad starting, if not I may need some help.

 many many thanks.

pintail.
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pintail
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Joined: 17 Nov 2013
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Location: norfolk

PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 18:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, well new hand pump & non return valve fitted, still the same, so I had a look at the fuel pipes, where they clip to the chassis they seem to be wet but do not smell of diesel, but the under seal on the pipes is wet. Where the pipes go between floor & a plate with the brakes pipes at the o/s near the axle it is very wet, but again not smelling of diesel. So it looks like it new fuel pipes are needed, mite try to just replace that section & see how it goes. what is the best type of pipe to use, rubber/plastic. Also after I looked at the pipes I was going to pressure test the tank as hunter said, when I took the filler cap of there was pressure in the tank or a vacuum  I heard it ether sucking in air or pushing out air not sure. As I'm writing this I'm now thinking that the pipes cannot be leaking if there was pressure or a vacuum in the tank. I think what I will do is to clamp of the rubber pipes  were they go to the top of the tank, & try a pressure test on the pipes from the engine bay to the tank, & then go from there.

 Pintail.
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