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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 23:01 Post subject: |
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To remove the pin you open the plug up and remove the grey section off the back then look at the end of the metal pin and you should see a small hole right under it, just push a needle or pin in to that hole and gently tug the wire and it should come out |
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Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 23:01 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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CharlieD **
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 67 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 11:21 Post subject: |
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Thanks Eithan. Got the wire out and surprise effing surprise, it started!! All that work and it turns out to be the ORPS Once I get the new ORPS in, how long can I run it, just for local trips, without having it zero'ed. I will get it done but probably won't be able to get to the Dealers straight away. |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 12:04 Post subject: |
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It's fine to run it and use it as normal just remember to get it done as it's fine tuning it so it should feel a bit smoother when it's zeroed but also remember to let the pressure out of the pipe right before they zero it |
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CharlieD **
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 67 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 13:57 Post subject: |
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That's great, thanks Eithan. |
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CharlieD **
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 67 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 13:55 Post subject: |
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Right, I'm back. Replacing the ORPS so while I'm there I'm going to clean up the TPS. Got it off and it is well coked up. So I have 2 questions on that. Is brake cleaner ok to use as a cleaner and what do I do about the sludge that's built up just inside the manifold? I've been told to be really careful not to drop anything in there so will it cause massive issues if some of the sludge almost inevitably drops in there? Also, the metal oil pipe that come out of the rocker box cover and goes down near the dipstick. Can it be undone at the top or only at the bottom, as per Mr G's marvellous ORPS guide.
As always, your assistance is invaluable and for that I thank you in advance |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 14:52 Post subject: |
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As best I can remember it, it's NOT POSSIBLE to remove the cam-cover without removing the HP-Oil-Pipe first. I doubt if you could 'swing it aside' without loosening the lower joint - so why NOT simply remove it, while you have to put a spanner on it?
As for all the awful sludge in the Intake-Manifold - it's created by exhaust-gas from the EGR-Valve mixing with oil-vapour coming from the cam-box breather-tube. The only 'solution' for the future is to prevent the EGR from opening by removing its vacuum-tube [then you must block THAT with something like an 8mm screw]. For NOW, you should spray some kind of solvent into the manifold and wipe-out what you can with tissues. Temporarily removing the EGR-Valve will give you better access but you must put it BACK in place to keep it closed. Rooting around in the manifold with some tissue wrapped around a piece of bent wire will do no harm! CLEANING it will help the air-flow and power-output.
Cleaning the TPS will not fix the 'Check-Engine' light, if you HAVE that problem - believe me, I tried everything! You'll have to buy a new TP-sensor to make the red light go away. If it DOESN'T go away [mine did not] - you could be unlucky and have a faulty Vacuum-Sensor as well [which looks just like the MAP-Sensor but sits beneath the EGR-Valve]. Now that I have replaced BOTH - I have the Check Engine light ready to warn me of REAL problems which might occur! _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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CharlieD **
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 67 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 16:46 Post subject: |
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Thanks Brownedoff. I have the check engine light but I'm not too bothered by it. I've already done the old block the EGR pipe trick I realise the oil pipe needs loosening but I was wondering if its possible to loosen atthe top because the bottom looks a bit of a pig. Is brake cleaner OK for cleaning the sludge out? |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 20:24 Post subject: |
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I'm actually a little surprised that you anticipate a problem with removing the HP-Oil-Pipe. I've done mine dozens of times without any snag. There's good-enough access for the spanner....? Even working on the Dublin Fire-Service Trooper - which had a REALLY stuck clamp-nut - caused only a slight distortion in the pipe [which we straightened afterward].
Really - it's NOT a difficult part of the job!
I don't think it matters what solvent you use to dilute the sludge. You'll be wiping it all OUT with the tissues, anyway - so all that would be left would be some dirty smears on the inside of the manifold! AS you've disabled the EGR - the *beep* should NOT build up anymore. In future, you'll just have an oily residue from the breather-tube mist - with no soot from the EGR to 'thicken' it into sludge!
Apart from wanting a WORKING Check-Engine light, I had to replace my sensors 'cos it actually FAILED the DOE vehicle-safety test over the red light! _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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CharlieD **
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 67 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 22:29 Post subject: |
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OK, good to know the metal pipe shouldn't be a problem. That's my job for the morning sorted out!!
Thanks for the tips!! |
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CharlieD **
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 67 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 18:10 Post subject: |
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ORPS done. TPS cleaned. Running much better. Taking longer to fire up though. Before all this hassle it was about two seconds, now it's about six. Never mind up and running. Thanks eithan, gribble and browndoff for all your help and advice. You blokes are giants among men! No doubt back again soon for the next chapter in the life of a UBS73 owner! |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 19:05 Post subject: |
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they need a run after changing to bleed the air out of the rail, if you don't it will take longer to start even on the 2nd and 3rd go but after a good run it should be back to normal |
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CharlieD **
Joined: 19 Feb 2009 Posts: 67 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 19:11 Post subject: |
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Ok eithan. Thanks. |
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