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Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™ Isuzu Trooper, Rodeo, Bighorn, Mu & VehiCROSS Owners Club
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rob5464 **
Joined: 11 Dec 2013 Posts: 98 Location: West Yorkshire
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Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 22:26 Post subject: Running water sound in passenger footwell |
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I have been having some overheating problems with my 3.0.
I checked it over today. Topped the water up and left it ticking over. To start with it was blowing air through the expansion pipe. After that it started pushing water out. A while after that I fair but of water started dripping down from the towing hook (drivers side).
I turned the engine off and eventually got the bash plate off. Couldn't see where it was dripping. I removed the thermostat and put some coolant flush in it.
Tomorrow I will remove the rad for a good inspection.
Something worth noting though; When the engine is on I can hear a running water sound in passenger footwell. However that carpet is not wet. Sometimes I can't hear it. |
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Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 22:26 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 18:08 Post subject: |
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Make sure you have the right level of coolant always - full rad and nearly half-full overflow-tank. Check that the seal-ring on the rad-cap is good - if it's leaky, then air will be drawn in [instead of water from the overflow-tank]. This air will become pressurised when all is HOT and it'll blow out more water! Thus the water in the rad drops, then you'll get more air and so on! ANY leak in the system can draw-in air as the engine cools down and, of course, allow coolant OUT - so that's the second area to check [after checking the rad-cap].
Check that there's no smell of diesel in the coolant - and if the problem persists [after checking the rad-cap], then use a 'sniff-tester' to check the coolant for any hydrocarbon contamination. If THAT were positive - it'd probably mean a blown head-gasket and a fairly major engine-job.
The gurgling in the footwell also seems to imply AIR in the coolant-stream - as it should normally flow quietly.
Good Luck _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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rob5464 **
Joined: 11 Dec 2013 Posts: 98 Location: West Yorkshire
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Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 18:24 Post subject: |
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Well it has been using water. I removed the stat and that helped alot. New one ordered from Milners. The rad cap looked ok visually but for the sake of a few quid I ordered a new one off eebuygum. Had the Rad out today. The air con rad looked worse for wear but the cooling rad looked acceptable. I gave it a flush out and put it back. |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 23:17 Post subject: |
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OK "I gave it a flush out and put it back" So did I - several times - when I had cooling-system problems! it's NOT a guaranteed fix, I'm afraid. It really DOES NOT shift the limescale build-up in the radiator which can occur when some previous owner uses JUST WATER as a coolant!! [I'm #6 on my car!!]
If it's "using water" - you've got to find out where's it leaking - or why it's blowing out of the vent-pipe! If it's 'cos the head-gasket is gone [and pressurising the system with exhaust-gases] - then you've got a relatively serious 'engine-problem'.
At best, a LEAK is allowing air to come in when the engine is cooling down - so first look EVERYWHERE for leaks!
"The air con rad looked worse for wear" - that may be only superficial damage to the external 'fins' used to transfer the heat from the coolant to the outside air. If so, it doesn't matter at all - you've got to look for signs of 'water-stains' on the outside - which would indicate a leak! _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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missing-snowman Lifetime member
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 46 Location: Manchester-UK
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 19:13 Post subject: |
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Just in case you're NOT kidding, the Thernmostat on MOST engines [Trooper, or otherwise] can be easily found by following the top-hose from the radiator back towards the engine-block, where it's usually in a dome-shaped metal housing.
This picture shows the Thermostat-housing on the 3.0Litre engine on the top left, above the MAF-sensor [marked 'A']. To access the Thermostat itself - for testing or replacement - just remove the 2x10mm bolts and lift off the housing, leaving the housing still clipped onto the radiator-hose.
[img]http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/Mauser-1332/media/A-MAP-B-MAPPlasticPipe-C-Metalpipe_zps7ddbcaf5.jpg.html?sort=3&o=42[/img]
Before fitting the new gasket [which will come with the new Thermostat], be sure to clean the mating surfaces and to remove any limescale you may see from the waterways you can reach. Check the top and bottom Rad-hoses too, as they might as well be renewed at this stage, if they're 'on the way out'. They're fairly cheap! _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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missing-snowman Lifetime member
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 46 Location: Manchester-UK
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 20:22 Post subject: Thank you |
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Most helpful!
Many thanks _________________ @missingsnowman |
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