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smiler289 *
Joined: 12 Aug 2013 Posts: 27 Location: derbyshire
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 22:06 Post subject: 1999 3.0 Trooper will not start with foot on clutch |
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Hi, our trooper has been reliable until this morning. It would turn over but not start. If you don't touch the clutch pedal it will start but you must leave it to warm up or it would just stall when you touch the clutch pedal. Once warmed up the car still won't start if you touch the clutch pedal.
Driving along sometimes it feels like it jerks with the power as if it's going to stall, it does it just once as if it's missing a beat. Then it's fine for a bit.
Also the check engine light sometimes stays on when running.
I have heard the crankshaft sensor could be the culprit?
It's been fine until now without any of these problems. Interestingly it had a service last week and I stalled it last night by taking my foot off clutch with it in gear.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
James |
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 22:06 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 19:10 Post subject: |
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either the crank sensor is weak or theres to much end float on the crankshaft and it's pulling the timing ring away from the sensor, change the sensor first and if it cures it then great but if it doesn't then it really needs new thrust bearing on the crank shaft |
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smiler289 *
Joined: 12 Aug 2013 Posts: 27 Location: derbyshire
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 21:17 Post subject: |
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eithan h wrote: |
either the crank sensor is weak or theres to much end float on the crankshaft and it's pulling the timing ring away from the sensor, change the sensor first and if it cures it then great but if it doesn't then it really needs new thrust bearing on the crank shaft |
Any suggestions on best way to get the sensor as there's not much room? Looks to me that the oil filter needs to come off. I did manage to get a spanner on it but I don't think the bolt is moving, think the spanner just slipped in it. |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 21:25 Post subject: |
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Yes I remove the filter as well and use a spanner |
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smiler289 *
Joined: 12 Aug 2013 Posts: 27 Location: derbyshire
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 15:07 Post subject: |
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eithan h wrote: |
Yes I remove the filter as well and use a spanner |
Hi, garage changed crank sensor today, the beast now runs as it should. However the check engine light is still on with and without engine running and has brought up a fault on the knock sensor, do you know where that is on the block?
Cheers
James |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 15:12 Post subject: |
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no knock sensor on a 3.0l |
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smiler289 *
Joined: 12 Aug 2013 Posts: 27 Location: derbyshire
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 15:21 Post subject: |
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eithan h wrote: |
no knock sensor on a 3.0l |
Oh really, that's odd then, why would it being that fault up? |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 15:50 Post subject: |
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probably because they are using a generic scanner and not a tech2 |
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smiler289 *
Joined: 12 Aug 2013 Posts: 27 Location: derbyshire
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 18:40 Post subject: |
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eithan h wrote: |
probably because they are using a generic scanner and not a tech2 |
Ok, just picked trooper up. Appears to start and idle fine but lacks power. Check engine light on. We stopped off on way home and when we turned the car back on the check engine light was off and it appeared to be driving normally with more power, until we turned right and it stalled, check engine light back on and lack of power.
Any thoughts? Would I have to go to a main dealer to get the codes read properly with a tech2? |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 18:51 Post subject: |
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you can do a flash code test yourself by bridging two terminals in the obd2 plug, search the site but i think it's pins 4 and 6 this will make the check engine light flash and post up here what number you get we can then tell you what is wrong |
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smiler289 *
Joined: 12 Aug 2013 Posts: 27 Location: derbyshire
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 18:53 Post subject: |
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eithan h wrote: |
you can do a flash code test yourself by bridging two terminals in the obd2 plug, search the site but i think it's pins 4 and 6 this will make the check engine light flash and post up here what number you get we can then tell you what is wrong |
Obd under the steering wheel area? |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 18:55 Post subject: |
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it's round the back of the trim for the gear lever/ centre console where the clutch pedal is |
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smiler289 *
Joined: 12 Aug 2013 Posts: 27 Location: derbyshire
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Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:21 Post subject: |
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eithan h wrote: |
it's round the back of the trim for the gear lever/ centre console where the clutch pedal is |
Hi, Ok done the flash test, code came back as 63 which I believe is the Rail Pressure Sensor low/high voltage. I guess need to replace that sensor now?
Cheers for the help so far.
James |
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smiler289 *
Joined: 12 Aug 2013 Posts: 27 Location: derbyshire
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Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 13:10 Post subject: |
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Update...
Tried the white wire trick. Mine appears to be yellow and someone has previously put bullet connectors on it so it's had trouble in the past. Anyway, tried the trick twice and all it did was make the revs go down when disconnected with check engine light still on.
Then went out in it and no engine light on and driving perfectly with plenty of power. Only thing I could think of is that something has not been connecting properly,it's possible the bullet connectors on the white wire were not fully home too.
An odd one. Will monitor and report back. |
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