Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

[02Trooper777]

Removed it yesterday with my engine crane and learnt a couple of lessons. [I was on my own]

1/   Ensure sling on engine is set so that the crane hook is quite close to the block surface (I had the head already off).
It is a bit late when you reach maximum lift and then find the engine won't quite clear the top of the slam panel ...
I had used a ratchet strap with a hook at each end located under the top curved pressing of the engine mounts.

2/  Bolt a bracket on the rear of the block (I used an old headbolt plus washers and a UJ forging !) so that you can run a strap or chain from the rear of the block       up to the hook on the crane.
If you don't - then the engine will tip back because balance point is to the rear and makes disengagement from splines more difficult.
So - a 3-point attachment method for strops/chains/rope is highly desirable.
Not easy to establish the correct angle with engine still in - but having left the gearbox jacked up you will have a good clue when you come to refit and line up.

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[02Trooper777]

Refitted today.  Single-handed. [and I'm 69]

As always a bit of fun lining things up perfectly.
Measured angle of gearbox face (as left jacked up when engine removed) with a combination square with spirit level.
Approx 9 degrees.

Set engine on slings at 9 degrees by using a fence wire tensioner from sling to an old cylinder head bolt screwed into rearmost hole.
It is important to also get the sling adjusted so that top face of block is level side-to-side. It is such a heavy engine that moving it once hoisted becomes an issue.

At first attempt as I lowered it very slowly, the spigot shaft flicked off the pull-ring fitment from the new centre plate - and it landed in the bellhousing ...
Pulled engine crane forward slightly and then VERY easy to push the pull-ring back into place.
At the second attempt succeeded in getting the shaft into the splines and new bearing.
Despite what some numpties have posted on the internet ... as with any clutch you do need to put a tiny bit of grease on the splines of the shaft and clutch centre. I use graphited grease.

The final 1/4" can be a challenge unless the two dowels are very precisely lined up.
Re-engaging the new fork bearing with the pull-ring was simplicity itself. Just push the clutch fork lever to the rear and the ring should click into place. THEN you can reattach the clutch slave cylinder.