Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

Red Robbo · Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 16:24 Post subject:

No fault code for Injector if driver is goosed.......I think that the fault code throws up if the injector solenoid itself is short or open circuit ie it is monitoring the injector,not the driver.So on Tech2 a click or balance test would indicate a faulty injector as the driver is not doing its thang.To prove it with Tech2 you would need to swap two injectors round ( or firtling the wiring out of the plastic carrier and swapping plugs round) pre-supposing all injectors are ok then a click test would prove the point.If the fault moves...injector if it don't ...driver.
I would suppose that by doing the above and measuring with your instumentation would also give the answer ?

Hust my thoughts Smile

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Philby · * Joined: 13 May 2009 Posts: 24 Location: Hayling Island

Carry out continuaty for inj 1 at ecu, Open circuit, Checked again at injector harness, open circuit. Tooke rocker cover off, checked at ecu and had 2.5 ohms circuit. check again at injector harness and still had continuaty. wiggle test at inj 1 plug, 1 WIRE PULLED OUT.

Would you Adam and Eve it. Watch for this everyone. Do'nt always beleive DTC'S. and Injector open circuits do not give you injector dtc's and crank sensor signals can be spiked but a missing driver. Red robbo made me think again and luckily did'nt splash cash for ECU re-firm. Would still like to know if
anyone knows you was or still is re-working ecu's to 208 bhp.

Red Robbo · Posted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 20:34 Post subject: Re: FIXED

easyelliott · Newbie Joined: 18 May 2013 Posts: 6

Hi Ethan, sorry to hijack your thread, but can you help me with the following:

My air conditioning unit belt snapped, and as this happened it ripped the wires out of the crank shaft location sensor!! Could you tell me which order the colour coded wires go in from top to bottom?? I've got a replacement socket, but I don't know which order they're supposed to go in!

Thank you.......El

eithan h · Posted: Sun May 19, 2013 13:03 Post subject:

i think you mean the cam sensor in the front of the plastic covers, if so then pin 1 is blue, pin2 is green and pin 3 is yellow with a red trace

easyelliott · Newbie Joined: 18 May 2013 Posts: 6

Hi Ethan, Yes, that's the sensor I'm on about.

The colours I've got are 1 x yellow, 1 x yellow & black and 1 x purple & black.

I've been told by another member that yellow is pin 2 and the purple and black one is a negative feed, but that's all he knows - any comments on that?

Many thanks for your help....

Elliott

eithan h · Posted: Sun May 19, 2013 14:14 Post subject:

i cant find any reference to those colours but heres a diagram of what pin does what

easyelliott · Newbie Joined: 18 May 2013 Posts: 6

Many thanks for your help.!! Very Happy

MJDiaz · * Joined: 27 Sep 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Philippines

eithan h · Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 20:50 Post subject:

normally a flash as it starts to crank means cam and crank are out of sync, if it continuously flashes at you with ignition on then the ecu isn't happy with the immobiliser

MJDiaz · * Joined: 27 Sep 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Philippines

It flashes when the ignition is in ON(No Cranking). It flashes for about 1 to 1.5s. It's not continuously flashing.
Does this looks immobilizer issue?

I had an issue with engine just cut-off. I keep on cranking but no luck. At this instance, I experience the CE light flash scenario mentioned above.
Cranking was fast. It looks like there's no diesel in the cylinder. When I put a starting fluid at intake I can noticed that the engine somewhat start probably because of the starter fluid but immediately cut-off.

When I removed the battery and wait for some time and put it back on, the CE light is now steady on at ON position.
At this point, the engine will start. It seems that there's a RESET or something similar that happened.

I am investigating a CKP sensor issue as well. In the manual, it mentioned that if there's an issue with CKP sensor there's 1:4 chance that the engine will start as the CKP sensor will determine which injector to fire.

Right now the engine starts. I idle it from 30min to 1hr patiently waiting to cut-off but it did not. I did not do anything aside from removing the battery and putting it back on.
I am hesitant to test in the road again it as it may stall again and we do not have good towing service nearby.

What do you think about this, eithan?

MJDiaz · * Joined: 27 Sep 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Philippines

Eithan,

Below is the link for the check engine light.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meA2Y4JlzMI

RPS: 0.2V at Ign On/Eng Off, goes to 3V when cranking.
Looks like rail pressure is fine.

CAM: ~0V at Ign On/Eng Off, goes to 12V when cranking.

CKP: ~0V at Ign On/Eng Off, goes to 12V when cranking.

J3 ECM(Power, Ign On/Eng Off): P1 -12V, P2 -12V, P5 - 0V(goes to 0.8V when cranking).
Looks like there's no supply to the injector.

C14 Fuse is okay.

eithan h · Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 20:43 Post subject:

bit weird but that doesn't look like immobiliser issues, remember it won't enable the injectors until it sees cam, crank and the correct oil pressure have you got a diagnostic machine at all?

MJDiaz · * Joined: 27 Sep 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Philippines