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Front Crossmember Rotten

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Joined: 22 Nov 2006
Posts: 298
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 22:41    Post subject: Front Crossmember Rotten Reply with quote

Hi Guys

Iím in serious need of some advice, the Trooper has just been in for an mot and Iíve received an advisory on some heavy corrosion to the front end, namely the cross member which lives under the air conditioning condenser assembly, Iíve numbered them 1 and 2 in the photo, although itís plain enough to see, Iíve also found some at point 3 on the nearside and point 4 on the offside on the swan neck bracket which the bumper bolts onto.

After grinding the bolt heads off and removing the swan neck bracket I found the corrosion had gone right through at point 5.
I am intending to renew the two front body suspension bushes.

Right guys:

Question 1/  
You can see what Iíve cut away so far in my photo,  Iíve been in contact with my local friendly Isuzu agent and the front cross member apparently comes as a complete sub assembly, in other words the cross member, the two vertical sides which the headlights sit in and the part the bonnet closes down onto, the cost for which is a cool £504.26, item 7 in the parts picture they sent me: Date  Thursday 6th Oct 2016

I assume it would still need to be welded to the rest of the car unless it just bolts on and then of course it would need spraying to match the rest of the engine bay colour, there is just no way I could afford to go down that avenue, so I need to get the part which Iíve cut away fabricated and as I donít have the tools to do it with, does anyone know who does this type of work that doesnít cost an arm and leg, near Stafford if possible?

Question 2/  
Where is the best place to jack the body work up so I can replace the front two bushes, I donít want to create any more damage than I already have?

Question 3/  
Whatís the best way to get the front suspension bushes out, looking up under the car there appears to be a bolt with a square end on it and a nut about 50mm up the thread and Iím not sure if sockets are available that deep?

Question 4/
Iíve got a Dual Purpose Migmate 150 welder, but stupidly Iíve never learnt how to weld, so is there anyone in the Stafford area interested in coming out to weld everything back together for me once Iíve got the replacement bits fabricated somewhere.
It will be outside on my driveway as there is no room in my garage to do it and naturally I am prepared to pay for the work.
Once I've got that done hopefully I can then get everything bolted back on and get the aircon recharged as I had it decommissioned before starting work on anything.

Thanks for any help or advice on where I can get anything done regarding the repair or if someone wants to give me a crash course on welding  Laughing

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 22:41    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!

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Joined: 12 Jan 2010
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Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 10:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

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Dafydd Wynn Williams
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Joined: 13 May 2005
Posts: 173
Location: 3 miles S of Bangor, Gwynedd

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 14:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Clive,
Just wondered how it all turned out?

I am in the same position as you were.  My 2000 troop van that I have had since 2005 in for MOT and failed because of front cross member corrosion.  Local garage strpping it at present in the hope of  a welding repair but not hopefull. Maybe this is the end of the road, I hope not, other than corrosion it is very sound and has so much more life left in it.

Did you fit a new cross member component?  And/or what was the final cost if your back on the road?

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Joined: 22 Nov 2006
Posts: 298
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 19:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Dafydd

Sorry about the delay in replying, life got in the way.

In answer to your questions, the last one is the easiest to answer, Yes, my Trooper is back on the road.
The garage doing the MOT said I would need to take it to a 4x4 specialist to get the work done, which no doubt would cost a lot more than I wanted to pay so I didnít even bother to get any quotes, well not as far as taking it to a specialist was concerned.

You will see from the photos already posted in order to buy a new cross member from the main agent it comes as one lump being item 7 in their exploded view of the front end, the price being a cool £450.22 + vat = £540.26 that was back in October 2016.

How much did it cost, as you will see from my original post I canít weld and after posting on the forum to see if anyone was interested locally and not having any success, I went on the internet to see if I could find a mobile welder, fortunately I did about 15 miles from where I live in Stafford, his rates were £30 per hour the total welding cost was £350 which included some other parts also needing welding, but the above price should give you a ball park figure with regards to the cross member part of the job, unless of course you have the skill to do the welding yourself.
The other parts I had welded were the main bumper support bracket, some smaller support brackets and the front body/chassis support bush brackets, Iíve included some photos of them, as you can see the rust had gone straight through the bumper bracket and right through the body/chassis support bush bracket and they are 4mm thick.

Rightly or wrongly I decided to have the refrigerant evacuated so I could remove the condenser assembly (air con rad.)

I shaped the metal parts myself using a wooden former and some angle iron then got the mobile guy to weld the pieces together and then the complete assembly onto the Trooper, as the crossmember is double skinned the inner and outer parts were plug welded together, see photo.

I checked on the internet for metal prices, but the only trouble was it costs an arm and a leg to get it delivered because of the weight, so I did the next best thing and decided to drive to Birmingham from Stafford about 60 miles round trip and buy some metal from a steel stockholder, some of them will sell small quantities to individual people.
I canít give a precise price because I bought more metal than I needed leaving some over maybe for another time, but I have included what I paid for the amount I purchased from F. H. Warden.

Below are some photos of the welding work I had done and me bending the flat sheet over the wooden formers, clamping it with the aid of some angle iron.
I had to leave a reasonable amount of metal on the pieces to be bent in order to give me more leverage during bending as itís not that easy even with 18 swg, I then cut the excess off after.

Itís times like this I wish Iíd got some simple bench rollers and folders would help, but all in all not a bad finish given I donít have access to a few thousand pounds worth of tooling and a brake press.

I'm sorry if the photos aren't in the correct order as I always seem to get in a bit of a mess when copying between sites.


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Joined: 22 Nov 2006
Posts: 298
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 19:59    Post subject: Reply with quote


You may find the information below useful:

Hot rolled steel
Hot rolled steel leaves a scaled surface a remnant of cooling from extreme temperatures, it is cheaper than cold rolled steel.
Slightly rounded edges and corners for bar and plate products (due to shrinkage and less precise finishing)
Slight distortions, where cooling may result in slightly trapezoidal forms, as opposed to perfectly squared angles.
Hot rolled steel is ideal where dimensional tolerances aren't as important as overall material strength, and where surface finish isn't a key concern.

Cold rolled steel
Cold rolled steel is essentially hot rolled steel that has been through further processing. Once hot rolled steel has cooled, it is then re-rolled at room temperature to achieve more exact dimensions and better surface qualities.
Cold rolled steel can often be identified by the following characteristics:
Better, more finished surfaces with closer tolerances
Smooth surfaces that are often oily to the touch
Bars are true and square, and often have well-defined edges and corners
Tubes have better concentric uniformity and straightness

Steel pickling and oiling
Steel pickling and oiling is a metal surface treatment finishing process used to remove surface impurities such as rust and carbon scale from hot rolled carbon steel. The steel is submersed in a bath of pickle liquor, a solution of Hydrogen Chloride acid, to remove the impurities from the surface of the steel.


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Joined: 22 Nov 2006
Posts: 298
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 22:07    Post subject: Reply with quote
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