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Ignition turn on Clicking


 
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Zusie
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Joined: 20 Jun 2020
Posts: 2
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 12:49    Post subject: Ignition turn on Clicking Reply with quote

Loud clicking when I turn Ignition on, battery light flashes (dully) from the relay Engine Check light on. Been round all Earths in engine bay. Changed ‘Charge’ relay. Changed Starter motor. Changed battery. Checked wires to alternator. Alternator is charging batteries and car does start. After all this, what can be causing this clicking? and why Check Engine light still on?
On a  Isuzu Trooper 3.0 Citation 1998
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 12:49    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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eithan h
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
Posts: 8195
Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 10:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

if it's a buzzing noise then it's probably the after market alternator, it causes the blue relay to buzz and a couple of others but as long as it stops when the engine starts then it's nothing to worry about they all do it,

does the check engine light stay on after it's started? if it does it's logged a fault code in the ecu
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Zusie
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Joined: 20 Jun 2020
Posts: 2
Location: Sussex

PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 18:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. It is a definite clicking not a buzzing. Wondering if it is actually the alternator even though it is charging, maybe is the output and I don’t know if it’s after market (does look a bit shiny compared to rest of parts)??. Not looking forward to that - apparently not an easy job to replace alternator on these. Going to look for used original so don’t end up with same problem and I haven’t got a lot to spend.
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Swbeuro2commercial
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Joined: 07 May 2020
Posts: 21
Location: Fife

PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 9:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was in the engine bay last night poking around looking at timing belt and crank pulley marking.

Wouldn't be worried about changing the alternator at all as it is very accessible. 12mm on the sliding adjuster, another 12mm around 3 o'clock facing it from the front, and a 14mm at about 6 o'clock.

Probably not required but I prefer to take radiator out for everything so you can see and have loads of space to work. It really is worth the extra 10 minutes. X2 12mm bolts on top of radiator on the bracket. Then the top hose off the radiator and then the hose to the overflow tank off, again top of radiator.   There's plastic air cowling on the back of the rad that has a couple of metal clips half way down from memory that just pop off. Then the bottom radiator hose I take off from the radiator and leave the other end attached to the engine. If mess is a worry, there's a drain tap near the bottom hose. Mine looks like a wing nut.

Another nice trick is first get a 10mm spanner and take the fan off. Just 4 nuts. More space then, and once the alternator is slackened you pull the pulley off that the fan nuts held on and the belts come off easily.
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