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Shift on the Fly Help Needed


 
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Clive
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Joined: 22 Nov 2006
Posts: 323
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2024 12:42    Post subject: Shift on the Fly Help Needed Reply with quote

Hi Everyone


Back in January 2011 Rhanagar did an in depth write up about the workings of shift on the fly, which is great by the way, and it’s written from the point of view the 4wd is not working.

I don’t know if anyone can help me but the problem I’m having is the 4wd button on the dash is constantly flashing when in the 2wd position.

At the moment the car is jacked up all round, if I press the 4wd button on the dash in, the light stays on solid as it should do and yep the 4wd engages ie. if I turn the front road wheel by hand the one on the opposite side of the car turns in the opposite direction.

I’ve even started the engine and put the car into gear then very carefully let the clutch engage and sure enough all 4 wheels are on the move.
If I then press the 4wd button on the dash to take the car out of 4wd it does exactly that, but  the light on the dash just continues to flash instead of a couple of times then go out.
In other words, as soon as the ignition is switched on the light on the dash starts flashing immediately even though the button is in the 2wd position.

A few years ago, I had a problem with electrics on the sotf and it turned out to be the switch on top of the actuator, it’s the switch with a ball bearing in it, anyway I found a broken wire in it and made a repair and it’s been ok ever since.

I’ve checked it's function and it's working fine, so no problem there.

I do have a multimeter although I’m not into auto electrics especially wiring diagrams.

I’m assuming it’s an electrical fault, where would be the best place to start electrical fault finding, I don't want to end up frying something on the electrics in the process.

The car is an Isuzu Trooper 3.0L diesel 2000 reg.


Thanks to anyone who can help
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2024 12:42    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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C.B.
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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
Posts: 147
Location: Central Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2024 1:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

TBH the manual can be a bit confusing in this area, first relevant section (4B1-11) says :-
When switching from 4WD to 2WD
1. In case that the 4WD indicator continues blinking
by 2Hz .
The 4WD indicator continues blinking by 2Hz until
both shifting the transfer gear and disconnecting the
front wheels are completed when switching 4WD to
2WD. When driveline is loaded with torsional torque,
the shifting transfer gear and disconnecting front
wheels are impossible. In this case, removal of
torsional torque on driveline make the shifting
transfer gear and disconnecting front wheels
possible.
Solution 3: When vehicle is running, drive
straight ahead while accelerating and
decelerating. When vehicle is at a stop, move the
vehicle forward and backward from 2 to 3 meters.

2. In case that the 4WD indicator’s blinking changes
from 2Hz to 4Hz.
Check the position of transfer lever. Is it at “4L”
position? In view of the shifting mechanism of
transfer, the gear shifting from 4WD to 2WD at “4L”
condition is impossible.
Solution 4: Push the 4WD switch to 4WD, shift the
transfer lever to “High” position and re–operate
the 4WD switch to 2WD.


then several pages further (page 4B1-30)  it says the following:-

Front Axle Diagnosis
 When the 4WD switch is operated from 4H to 2H,
indicator light does not go out.
Step Action Yes No
1 Drive slow 100 — 200m after a few minutes” idling.
Has indicator light gone out? All right. Go to Step 2
2 Jack up front tires.
Does the right side of front wheel rotate when the left side of front
wheel is rotated? Go to Step 4 Go to Step 3
3 1. Check the actuator switch.
2. Check the circuit to indicator.
Was a problem found? Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
Disassemble axle
ASM for check.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
4 1. Check the VSV valve.
2. Check the circuit to VSV valve.
Was a problem found?
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace. Go to Step 5
5 Is vacuum piping all right? (tank, hose, & pipe damage or trouble)
Go to Step 6
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.
6 Does actuator work all right?
Trace this chart
from the start.
Disassemble axle
ASM for check.
Trace this chart
from the start
after repair or
replace.

Basically break it down Actuator, VSV valves or vacuum piping and follow the steps as 1 to 6.  If that doesn't shake the bug out then I'd be looking at the 4WD module having a fault on the circuit board but that is unusual.

hope this helps
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Clive
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Joined: 22 Nov 2006
Posts: 323
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2024 22:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi C.B

Thank you for your reply its much appreciated, the first thing I have to say is its sure quiet on the forum these days or is it the fact there are less people with Troopers these days.

I know it must be colder where you are being in Scotland but I just haven’t felt like lying under the car in this weather a sign I’m old especially as I’m doing it outside.

The only thing I’d noticed before jacking the car up was the brakes didn’t feel as good as they use to be, I pointed this out to the garage when it was taken in for an MOT.
It did pass but the guy told me they only test brakes at about 20 miles per hour on the rolling road, however he did try it out on the actual road and said they seemed a bit woolly as he put it.
My feeling is, it doesn’t exactly jerk you in the seat like an emergency stop would do when the brakes are applied hard.

Just before taking it in for the test, I did replace all the brake pads including taking the calipers off and greasing the slider pins, some which were seized making the pads wear uneven.
I also made sure the pistons were moving ok, then I bled the complete system including the brake master cylinder, using the brake pedal method.

I pulled the pipe off the brake servo unit and felt suction on the pipe by putting my finger on the end of it and that appeared to be ok.
I’ve now removed the brake vacuum tank on the front passenger side to check for air leaks by using a foot pump on it, placing the vacuum tank in a bucket of water and all seemed ok.

I’m not that clever but would the vacuum side of things cause the light on the dash to keep flashing or is it an electrical fault.
I note you have suggested:  (Basically break it down Actuator, VSV valves or vacuum piping and follow the steps as 1 to 6.)  
If that doesn't shake the bug out then I'd be looking at the 4WD module having a fault on the circuit board but that is unusual.

I was thinking about replacing all the rubber pipes on the vacuum side of things but haven’t done so yet.
To be honest I’m just guessing at what may be wrong with it, trust it to pick this time of the year to play up.

I just can’t get my head around the darn thing, it’s going in and out of 4wd, it’s just the light keeps flashing although I do think there is some sort of issue with braking.
As if I haven’t had enough trouble with it already, it’s the 3.0L diesel need I say any more.
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