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MOT Check list (complete with bad spelling)


 
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dxmedia
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 21:50    Post subject: MOT Check list (complete with bad spelling) Reply with quote

With all the mutterings of MOT's I though it might be worth throwing this together for people?



Interiour

All seat belts, do the open and close correctly, and are the plastic surrounds intact?

Are all the seats bolted in correctly (don't wobble on the runners)?

Is the steering wheel secure (doesn't move up down, forwards backwads, or side to side more than just a tiny bit)?

Is there less than 2" of rotation in the steering wheel before the wheels start to move?

Does the fog light switch have a working tell tail bulb?

Do all of the doors open correctly?

Body

Do the tyres sit within the lines of the body (not stick out past the wheel arches)?

Is there any rust within 30cm of any seatbelt mounts?

Is there any sharp or pretruding parts of the body?

Are the bumpers attached securly?

Does the fuel filler cap fit securly?

Do all of the lights work?

Do the windscreen washers all work (front only) (fill up with fluid now anyway)

Do both front wipers clear everything without leaving water behind?

Is there no rubber pealing away on the front wiper blades?

Is the fog light on the drivers side if there is only one fitted?

Are the headlight adjusters free (if they are motorised then this might be an issue)

Are the body mounts secure?

Brakes

Are all of the brake pipes in good condition (worth painting grease on them to keep them good)?

Does the handbrake work well (can it hold the car on a hill)?

When driving along a dry road at 30 miles per hour and you slam on the brakes (quiet country road - and check behind you Wink ) do you leave 4 skid marks starting at the same time?

Front steering and suspension

Jack each side up to check.

If you put a bar through the wheel, is it firm if you wobble it in any direction before the steering starts to move? If so do it again whist looking at the top and lower ball joints. If the ball joints move, replace them. If they don't, tighten the wheel bearing.

Grab hold of the track rod on the steering, Does the steering start to move straight away? If anything wobbles replace the track rod ends if nescassery.

Are all of the rubber boots good on the steering and suspension components?

Are the gators good and not split covering the CV joints?

Is the steering idler (on the passenger side bolted to the side of the chassis at the front - the track rod end on this side attaches to it) bearing good (wobble the track rod on this side and see if the steering idler arm moves from side to side)?

Are the shocks not leaking any oil?

Do the break pads have more than 3mm of pad material left on them?

Does the disk have less than a 2mm lip on the edge?

Put the car back on the ground, if you bounce on the wing, does the car stop rebounding within one bounce (are the shocks good)

Are all the wheel nuts present?

Are the tyres in good nic (no cuts in the sidewall, and more than 3mm of tread over 3/4 of the tyre, and no steel banding showing)?

Back steering and suspension
Jack up each side one at a time

If you put a bar through the wheel, does not it wobble (if so new wheel bearing)?

Do the disk brakes have more than 3mm of pad material left on them?

Does the disk have less than a 2mm lip on it?

Is the rear diff not leaking any oil?

Are the tyres in good nic (no cuts in the sidewall, and more than 3mm of tread over 3/4 of the tyre, and no steel banding showing)?

Underneath

Does the chassis solid and not have any holes?

Are all the brake lines good?

Are all the fuel lines good?

Is it not dripping any fluids?

Under the bonnet

Does the bonnet close securly?

Is all the pipe work good?

Is there no fluid leaks?







Thats not a definitive list, but if you give yourself a day over a weekend to run through everything, you'll be in good stead for passing an MOT. There will always be the occasional supprise, but it's a machine, things fail over time.

I've tried to make the above a 'yes' answer is good so if you want to print out and use it as a tick sheet it's easier - as such sorry about all the double negatives
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 21:50    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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dxmedia
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 21:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

damn I meant to bold the headings ....  Embarassed
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gary820
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 22:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice little list there chris, (i'll not pick at it in regards to actual mot standards and checks.  Wink )
it's a good general check and covers what needs checking. What people need to remember mot standards are shockingly low!  Shocked
Always a good idea to check it over not just for the mot but an interim check if your truck is used a lot!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 23:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

dxmedia wrote:
damn I meant to bold the headings ....  Embarassed

Done  Wink
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dxmedia
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 23:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks


Embarassed

Didn't realise that I'd managed to include rear steer in there some how Very HappyVery HappyVery Happy
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Philp
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 8:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

You won't leave four black lines if you have ABS!  Also check the AS warning light works on the dash, its the only bit of the abs system they check.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 19:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

BrakesWhen driving along a dry road at 30 miles per hour and you slam on the brakes (quiet country road - and check behind you  ) do you leave 4 skid marks starting at the same time?

You ain't trying hard enough if you leave four lines. If you leave two because the back wheels are off the ground you are breaking Laughing
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gary820
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 19:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe safer to not slam on that hard.
Brakes are tested on  a roller tester unless 4 wheel drive or has lsd, when test brakes on the road using a decelerometer in the car it's only tested at 20mph!
a test to make sure pulls straight, no judder and you get a reading of how well the brakes perform including the handbrake.
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dxmedia
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 19:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

They test lsd's on a rolling road Wink

The idea is, if all the wheels lock up, your breaks are going to pass a test. If only 3 lock up, you know which one to look at. Also if one bites before the other, then you've got an imbalance.

With abs you'll still leave black marks, just loads and loads of them Wink
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gary820
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 20:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

not supposed to test lsd equipped vehicles on the rolling road unless it's a type you know can be without causing damage. i never put them on always take down the road (usually M3's and M5's tho  Very Happy )
brakes don't need to lock as long as meet the minimum braking weight for that vehicle!
If had brake imbalance you would normally have trouble with it pulling to one side under braking. Like i've said mot standards are quite low you'd be surprised what you can get away with  Wink
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Arthur
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 20:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wink Nice one great help
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 17:44    Post subject: MOT data Reply with quote

[font=Arial]Hi
This link may also help to prepare for the mot

http://www.motester.co.uk/CarOwnersGuidetoTheMOT/WhatIsTested.aspx

andy[/font]
MOT
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badendesigns
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly make this a sticky? I'm sure all out MOTs are at different times so would be good to find it easily??

Got to put ours in at some point later this month. It's due at the end of May
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