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Hot Mk1 3.1

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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:20    Post subject: Hot Mk1 3.1 Reply with quote

Right brief description.

Mk1 3.1, FMIC, pump wound up, big bore strait through exhaust, new 30% better cooling three bar rad and all pipework clear and pristine.

The truck has always got hotish (two thirds on the gauge) since the 3.1 swap when towing. After the FMIC install and pump tweaks it is going up to over three quarters on the gauge on motorway hills when towing (2 ton)

Now I appreciate the extra power and FMIC in the way are responsible for the recent hike, but I think it has always run a bit hot.

Any ideas how to give extra cooling on the motorway? Do fans help at 60 odd mph? Scoop do anything? Two rads has been suggested..... Holes drilled in the T-Stat has also been suggested.....

Any ideas?
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shrekky
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dare say the tweaks and FMIC will be responsible for a little increase in temp rise,as you're burning more fuel with denser air(ie bigger bang)......................and i dont know about these trucks but i had to fit fans to my citreon xantia that was a bit like your truck ,in that it seemed to run hot anyway Rolling Eyes  and especially when towing,and yes they did seem to work at 60mph ish...................people seem to forget the oil not only lubricates and engine,it helps cool it to,especially one fitted with a turbo.................if you're towing quite often,why not fit an oil cooler ?
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

They have an oil cooler as standard (water cooled part of the filter housing) A biger air cooled one round the front would help I guess but I have no room for it...
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DYLAN
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't suppose something stupid like taking the thermostat out altogether would help?
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am going to try that just to see if it is faulty. But surly it's not wise to run without one long term?

On the subject of fans, do we think a fan does anything at 60mph? My thinking is that it would have to create over 60mph of wind or it will be getting in the way....
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DYLAN
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

:::Matski::: wrote:
I am going to try that just to see if it is faulty. But surly it's not wise to run without one long term?



If it's not a newish stat i would put a new one in before running without one. Running without one will probably lower your mpg aswell so i doubt you really want to do that but if it comes to a overheating engine or no stat????? Gauge working correctly? I take it you have eliminated a partially blocked rad? a descent garage could test it for cool/hot spots.

The good thing Matt is,,,, There are better fellas than me on here that can help ya... I'm cluthing at straws Laughing  Laughing  Laughing
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dxmedia
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go for removing the stat - all it will do is lengthen the warm up time due to water circulating round the whole engine rather than just the main circuit.

I think that idea of an oil cooler is a good one though Matt, is there room behind the rad for one - it doesn't 'need' to be in direct air flow to have an effect, just the surface area of the rad will lower the temp considerably - What about fitting on the inner wing across from the oil filter?

Have a look on a Paj in a scrappers, they have seperate ones fitted Wink
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm the oil cooler thing sounds good.

The stat was new when I fitted the 3.1 as was the rad/pipes and have always had coolent in.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about an oil cooler on the innerwing with a fan blowing on to it? Could be wired in exactly the same was as a leccy fan conversion, just rather than cooling water, it's on an oil rad?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd consider an electric fan conversion for twin fans, will certainly help when towing uphill, you could always fit an oil cooler and duct air to it maybe from the front bumper, these guys http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/AIR-DUCTING-Air-Intake-Ducts/c18_291/index.html have all sorts of ducts, scoops and hose, fit an inline fan to force air through at lower speeds.  You could also try wrapping some exhaust wrap around the exhasuts/turbo manifold to reduce underbonnet temps (and help scavenging too) you can even get the manifold ceramic coated that does the same thing.  Another option would be to get some louvres punched in the bonnet to let the hot air out or ven fit one of the Kenlowe bonnet extractor fans.  If you have a bonnet from one with a top mount i/c then can you turn the scoop backwards so the low pressure sucks the hot air out?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Philp wrote:
turn the scoop backwards so the low pressure sucks the hot air out?



humm nice demister Very Happy
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you think a fan works at 60mph then? This is where I am not sure, I mean it needs to be sucking air at over 60mph or its getting in the way...

Reverse scoop eh, something to think about.

Good ideas, keep em coming Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fix that water leak, and run on 100% antifreeze / coolant - that will have a marked effect, water is actualy very very poor at conducting (yes electricity as well Wink ), so replace water with something which is good....
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had a 2.8 years ago with a stuck thermostat, shut closed causing her to run a little warm

check the thermostat gasket too, it was boiling out of the seal and running low on water
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point - if it's leaking any water the system isn't going to pressurise correctly and the water will be boiling at 100 rather than 120 or so for a propper system.
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