Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

:::Matski::: · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:33 Post subject:

Caskets fine and I never let it run low. Got a tiny leak somewhere maybe the head gasket actualy....that could cause it to run hot Idea

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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

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lotustower · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:39 Post subject:

Does the wind actually hit the rad at 60MPH? I don't think it will. this weekend whilst testing the Mondeo twin fan I've seen a big drop from having the fan off and towing up hill at a steady 50, the autobox has dropped out of overdrive, gauge reading about 75% to 2 minutes after switching only 1 fan on which brings the temp back to normal.

So I would go with the fan as it's a very cheap option, the engine runs more smoothly, takes a bit longer to get to normal running temp but is the same to the overdrive coming in, and on the first tank and heavy towing giving over 5% MPG improvement.
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LotusTower - '93 Lotus Bighorn

:::Matski::: · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 14:46 Post subject:

So it looks like a Mondeo twin fan sounds like a plan Very Happy

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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

Philp · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 15:06 Post subject:

If you can't find anyone with a louvre press to punch louvres in the bonnet I have heard of people getting hold of a couple of scrap metal lockers and cutting and welding the louvred bits into the bonnet. Anything that lets heat out has to be good, after all, the air thats forced through the rad than has to get out of the engine bay. A cheap option can be to put a couple of spacers between the hinges and bonnet so the back gets raised up a little leaving a gap. You could also sling a bottle of water wetter or similar in which will bring it down by 10 to 15C.
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Phil

96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus

:::Matski::: · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 16:11 Post subject:

The thing is I don't want it to look a mess. It's not an off road toy with riveted bit's allover it...

I like the sound of a scoop but don't think I could do a tidy enough job with the filler.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

Philp · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 17:58 Post subject:

A good hot rod shop can punch louvres straight into the bonnet, often without even damaging the paint, you'd just need a couple of rows maybe towards the back. They usually charge a couple of quid a louvre though. These are really about the size of the louvres you get on lockers etc so pretty subtle, I'd just back them with some fine mesh to keep leaves etc out.
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Phil

96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus

K.Goodwin · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 20:03 Post subject:

I don't suppose those stick on louvres from halfords would work would they Rolling Eyes

on a serious note, i think twin electric fans sounds like the way forward Very Happy

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:::Matski::: · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 21:44 Post subject:

Yeah so do I
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

jonkem · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 22:24 Post subject:

Matt, just before going and spending on a fan why not try turning the fuel back down and seeing what happens to the temp. More fuel equals more heat at the exhaust valve and there is an optimum point between power output and fuel burnt.

No amount of radiator cooling will help with localised overheating Crying or Very sad

Have you measured the water temp accurately? Recently tested a 2.8 that had "run warm" all it's life and suddenly started to "run very hot". The actual running temp was spot-on. So it's worth finding out properly.
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1994 KZJ70 Cruiser (currently filling the garage and causing some head scratching)
1988 MKI 3.1td Hybrid Van (Ex Bobtail)
1991 SWB Fronty 2.8td Hybrid
2000 Astra Estate (work)
2006 VXR Astra
MK1 SR Nova

:::Matski::: · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 23:05 Post subject:

Whats the best way to test it?

I will back the fuel off a touch and see. Though I know this is responsible for the latest hike I was hoping no to as I like the extra pull when towing.

That said I have some petrol diffs coming this week and they should help in that department.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

:::Matski::: · Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 15:49 Post subject:

Just driled two 5mm holes in the t-stat so will see if that helps in the short term. Dont think it will as it is fing most of the time only getting hot when at full boost for a long time.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

moglite · **** Joined: 01 Nov 2006 Posts: 303 Location: winchester

Dunno about Isuzu engines, but on LR TDI's the stat also kinda controls the flow of water around the engine, and removing it is a very bad thing.

Are your gauge and sender matched ? If I've got problems like this - I always reach for something like a VDO gauge and matched sender.

I don't think fans will help at speed.

You could try Water Wetter, claims to drop the temp a few degrees

Has your rad cap got the right PSI rating ?

Does putting the heater on help reduce the temp - that was the get out of jail free card when I had a Triumph Stag

A cheap Hot Rod trick is to space the rear of the bonnet up an inch, that lets the air out. Maybe not a permanent fix, but for 10 mins with some temp brackets, it will prove if you need to help hot air out.

There you go - that'll give you something to think about Razz

Andy

jonkem · Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 21:18 Post subject:

I've got a cooling system test kit for pressure & temp, wasn't expensive. I use the temp probe in one of the sender holes in the top of the stat housing. Get it to what the car thinks is hot and see the true reading.

You can use a surface contact thermometer on the rad tank if you get a good contact. Infra red thermometers can be had for £6 on fleabay!

If it is the amount of fuel that is causing the heat build up there are some things you can try apart from taking all the extra diesel away BUT just working on the cooling won't deal with the hotspots created by the extra fuel. You can easily fit a fan to the intercooler and even a water spray (doesn't last very long but good for hills!). A charge cooler will work 10 times better than an intercooler but is a bit more work to install. both of these things will get the fuel charge colder before you burn it.

Remember you have a 3.1 with 2.8 size rad which is what I'm running in the ex Bobtail van. I also have an extra deep core, TMIC with scoop but it will still get warmer than standard (2 degrees) at 80 mph over a long period. That's with bog standard timing, fueling & boost.

Petrol diffs? Surely you will be revving higher for the same speed?
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1994 KZJ70 Cruiser (currently filling the garage and causing some head scratching)
1988 MKI 3.1td Hybrid Van (Ex Bobtail)
1991 SWB Fronty 2.8td Hybrid
2000 Astra Estate (work)
2006 VXR Astra
MK1 SR Nova

:::Matski::: · Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 21:54 Post subject:

It will bring the gearing back to stock if you take the larger diameter tyres into the equation. So hills will be easier.

My rad is a three bar 30% better cooling one.

I should really get a proper thermometer....
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

moglite · **** Joined: 01 Nov 2006 Posts: 303 Location: winchester