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Aussie Locker Install and 1" IFS Drop

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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 11:43    Post subject: Aussie Locker Install and 1" IFS Drop Reply with quote

Here is a "how to" on installing an Aussie Locker and dropping the IFS one inch thus easing the angle on the CVs on lifted trucks.

Please note that it would NOT be a good idea to fit an Aussie Locker into the front with auto hubs.




First pic shows the inner CVs pulled and wrapped up in carrier bags to keep clean. Also the track rod and top ball joints have been disconnected. I undid the bottom shock mount to allow the CV to swing out of the way too.

NOTE: This is a good time to look at and replace CV boots.





Next, undo the prop, drop the cross member and pop the ball joints on the center track rod then remove the whole assembly. This will give room for the axle to drop. It should now look like the pic below.





Drop the oil...





Put a jack under the diff then undo the four mounting bolts and breather pipe then lower onto the bottom arms. You now need to shove the nearside end as far over as you can, this will allow the off side CV cup to clear the lower arm then drop as in the pic.

NOTE: Some people have been unable to drop the axle in one piece. If this is the case, I would imagine you will need to pull the half shaft from the short side.





Drop axle on a bench and have a tab/cup of tea/beer (delete as appropriate)

NOTE: I also stuffed bags in the CV cups to prevent grit getting in.





Undo the four bolts and pull the half shafts, then undo the ring of bolts and pull the diff out.

NOTE: I don't know if you are supposed to, but I undid the diff bolts in a star sequence to avoid uneven pressure warping the 3rd member.





Mark the caps so you can put them back on their original sides, Then undo the two bolts on both sides.






Pull out the carrier.

NOTE: Make sure you put the bearing races back in the same slots so they go back where their origanal positions.




Again working in a star sequence remove the remove the ring gear. The punch out the pin that holds the pinion shaft in place.





Punch out the pinion shaft and remove all the gears from the diff.

NOTE: Retain the thrust washers and replace on their original sides.





Referring to the instructions test the clearances with the side gears thrust washers and spacers in place. Being within tolerance is critical.

Then after coating with grease to help stick the parts together install the all the parts with the pins in place (they aren't in the below pic)

The pic below shows the last piece going in.





Slide the pins over and fit the springs.

NOTE: The steps on the ends of the pins must be on the spring end as these hold the springs on.





Fit the pinion shaft back in and refit the locking pin, seat this well so it doesn't fall out!. It is a good idea to deform the locking pin hole with a screw driver to stop it falling out if it comes loose.

Refit the ring gear then drop back into the 3rd and refit the caps, then drop into the axle using gasket sealer and bolt up in sequence.

If you are not dropping the axle refit all in the reverse of dismantling and you are ready for the spin test. This is performed as in the instructions that came with the locker.

NOTE: If it fails the spin test DO NOT drive it as you will break it.

If you are droping the axle read on...



Remove the half shaft bearing and oil seal, these are both held on with circlips. Then remove the bracket.

The pic below shows the order that they go back in (with the bracket next to the cup)  





Using a square to make sure you will be dropping straight down, mark out the box you want to cut out.





Cut, clean then tack one inch lower.





Weld both sides making sure you get good penetration. I welded the back very hot, this came right through to the front, then just ran down the front so it would grind flat.





Grind it flat.





Reassemble and paint up.




You will need to drop your cross member now.

I only dropped the cross member on one side as in the pics. this left better clearance on the other side. As the diff and transfer case is on one side it leaves a safe passage on the near side for rocks. Hence not dropping that side.

I just welded two plates on and re drilled the holes dropping 3/3". This means it can go back to stock if needed.

Here it is tacked to give you an idea.



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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 11:43    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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siweb
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 20:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enjoyed the read mat, ty for talking the time to do it Wink


Want to see it in action now!!!!
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 20:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ha, so do I!
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

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siweb
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 20:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

:::Matski::: wrote:
Ha, so do I!
Laughing  Laughing you not got it fixed yet????? stop messing about man.....
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 22:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

They dont work well without a flywheel Wink
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 18:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW its awesome!

Slight self centering on minor turns but unlocks on tighter turns. It locks up completely when lifting a wheel!

Does what it says on the tin Cool
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

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rich31td
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 23:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you fit these to a SOTF axle?

If not then how easy is it to convert to the older style axle with manual locking hubs? Is it a direct swap?
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 9:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I know you can swap, but I have never dealt with them. I would wait for one of the members with more up to date experience.
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

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rich31td
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 11:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did alot more research and allot of 4x4 owners that have front axle disconnects SOTF say an Ausie locker is fine.
I think the website even mention it as being fine.

I was thinking of installing a cable operated axle disconnect (SOTF) in order to remove all the vacume bits which can and do go wrong.
Posi-Lock sell kits but only list american models, was just wondering if a 4x4 axle is the same as Isuzu axle as they have the same diff.


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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are looking at geting serios off road than a non shift on the fly axle would be better. How does the transfer box work with SOTF?
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

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Grandad
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 13:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

the transfer box is the same as the non sotf until you get torque on demand
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rich31td
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 15:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you shift into 4wd the TXB transfers power to the front prop shaft, a switch on the TXB tells the vacume actuator on the front axle to move selector fork which slides the colar conecting one of the half shafts to the Diff.

You could use a cable operated axle disconnect, just means the corwn wheel isn't spinning when in 2wd.
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 17:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you could swap in a standard axle and do away with the SOTF.

Don't really see why it was ever used really. With manual hubs you can shift to all ratios on the move anyway! You will also be more efficient with freewheeling hubs.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

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rich31td
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 20:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

So lazy people don't have to get out to put in 4x4 on the hubs. And you don't want the crown wheel spinning all the time.
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crotchrocket
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 13:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where abouts did you get the locker? as i can not seem to find a supplier in the UK ?
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