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Gribble *******
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 8448 Location: Holset H221W
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Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 19:02 Post subject: Removing rail oil pressure control valve |
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19mm nut and top hat spacer
The top hat spacer can be tight on the body of the valve
The electric connection to the solenoid
Very fiddly to get on and off, I generally leave it attached to the solenoid
Checking the small piston moves freely
Valve once removed
Valves location in back of hpop (high pressure oil pump)
It is 29mm spanner or 1'1/8" AF to get it out, I find it easier to remove the ECU, the steel fuel inlet pipe and the VSV off the inlet manifold. I also stand on a milk crate for easier access and thats the only reason robbo, _________________ 2 New Troopers ! |
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Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 19:02 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Red Robbo Lifetime member
Joined: 17 Feb 2008 Posts: 4129 Location: Where ever I happen to be in my imagination but mainly Far East Sussex
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Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 20:45 Post subject: |
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Being sensible for a bit... ...Worth a thousand words....Nice one Mr G..... _________________ Khotso........... |
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wisecobandit ****
Joined: 11 Jan 2007 Posts: 337 Location: Exeter
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Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 22:39 Post subject: |
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Just to add the new valve doesnt come with the solenoid either.Price is around £300 + the vat on top.
I actually unscrewed the lower half of the valve unit (the bit that screws into the main body with the small viton o ring on) and washed it out.Just beware as there is a very small pin that lives on the top of it which the valves goes up against..I wouldnt reccommend unscrewing it and having a look but i wanted to be nosey! _________________
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 22:59 Post subject: |
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the new valve should come with everything so you should get the top hat, the nut, the solenoid, and the valve itself |
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wisecobandit ****
Joined: 11 Jan 2007 Posts: 337 Location: Exeter
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Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 23:05 Post subject: |
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Is there a sepearate part number for the valve only?
I refused to buyit as when they ordered it in it was the valve only with no solenoid or tophat.Came in isuzu box and in that there was only the valve in like a heat shrink foil bag thing. _________________
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 23:19 Post subject: |
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thats it it's all in there as long as the foil bag hasn't been opened and someone has nicked it! |
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dan dodson *
Joined: 23 Sep 2011 Posts: 36 Location: Rocchester, kent
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 21:39 Post subject: |
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urm...............
i suspect this is what i'm going have to do.
Dose this item need coding to the tech 2 when anew one fitted??? |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 21:43 Post subject: |
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nope just fit it and start it up |
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dan dodson *
Joined: 23 Sep 2011 Posts: 36 Location: Rocchester, kent
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 23:16 Post subject: |
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SWEET!!
looking at the download manual off the jeeplog etc... the oil presures sensor is in the oil rail under the rocker cover or am i completely wrong?? as these pic seems to suggest its down low towards the front of engine???? |
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ladydriver ****
Joined: 30 Apr 2006 Posts: 327 Location: Worcestershire
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 23:20 Post subject: |
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This is the ROPCV = Rail Oil Pressure control valve - the one you are thinking about is the ORPS/ROPS = Oil Rail Presssure Sensor _________________ JDW
1999 3.0l Citation SWB |
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boyddean ****
Joined: 15 Mar 2010 Posts: 254 Location: Sheffield
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:16 Post subject: |
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this is a great posting
am i right in thinking if this thing sticks its a non start for the engine
I have a non starter that i spent all yesterday on and still no joy
I know its not the
ORPS
Fuel
Crank sensor
ECU
so going to have a stab at this thingy
I seem to remember a highly to remember a highly tech bit of advice from MR E
about poking open with a screwdriver to check
any advice
cheers |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:23 Post subject: |
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Yes and yes !!!! |
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boyddean ****
Joined: 15 Mar 2010 Posts: 254 Location: Sheffield
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Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 16:04 Post subject: |
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eithan h wrote: |
Yes and yes !!!! |
is this audi speak
this is odviously what you keep saying to the birds in their Audi soft tops
you are clearly lacking in sausage butties...........bet the intended has you on a salad diet now
just clarify how i broddle it with screwdriver please mate
remember I am no tech just a thick yorkshire man so keep it simple
and by the way the durham lads told me the secret of a long marriage is all down to the rule of thumb
cheers
simon |
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boyddean ****
Joined: 15 Mar 2010 Posts: 254 Location: Sheffield
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Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 16:46 Post subject: |
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Just be thinking.................................
shall i stay infornt of blazing log fire or go back to very cold workshop
anyway
if valve is stuck shut presume no oil goes up high pressure oil pipe to rail hence non start
so if i crack the 27 mm nut
crank it over and oil does not fly out..... then it could be this thing
if oil flys out then valve is probably working
make any sense ??????????????????????????
cheers |
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Gribble *******
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 8448 Location: Holset H221W
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Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 19:52 Post subject: |
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No not really as its a pressure system so relies on building up and maintaining ,not on flow which you would see .
If I were you I'd get a hydraulic q/r pressure test fitting (minmess types ideal) brazed onto an old HP oil pipe and a gauge with a flexy pipe so you could see if the pressure is rising up till you blag a tech 2 somewhere .
With the ropcv you poke a wd40 straw up it like I am doing in the pics and see if the tiny piston moves away then returns on its own nice n smooth,mind you this is not allways a foolproof test as I found out with andys 3.0 the other day ! But it is a good starting point .
I would just have a good valve about and swap it . _________________ 2 New Troopers ! |
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