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Removing rail oil pressure control valve

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Gribble
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
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Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 19:02    Post subject: Removing rail oil pressure control valve Reply with quote

19mm nut and top hat spacer
The top hat spacer can be tight on the body of the valve


The electric connection to the solenoid
Very fiddly to get on and off, I generally leave it attached to the solenoid


Checking the small piston moves freely


Valve once removed


Valves location in back of hpop (high pressure oil pump)


It is 29mm spanner or 1'1/8" AF to get it out, I find it easier to remove the ECU, the steel fuel inlet pipe and the VSV off the inlet manifold. I also stand on a milk crate for easier access and thats the only reason robbo, Smile
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Red Robbo
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 20:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

hilarious  hilarious

Being sensible for a bit... Shocked ...Worth a thousand words....Nice one Mr G..... Very Happy
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wisecobandit
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Location: Exeter

PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 22:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to add the new valve doesnt come with the solenoid either.Price is around £300 + the vat on top.

I actually unscrewed the lower half of the valve unit (the bit that screws into the main body with the small viton o ring on) and washed it out.Just beware as there is a very small pin that lives on the top of it which the valves goes up against..I wouldnt reccommend unscrewing it and having a look but i wanted to be nosey!
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 22:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

the new valve should come with everything so you should get the top hat, the nut, the solenoid, and the valve itself
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wisecobandit
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 23:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a sepearate part number for the valve only?
I refused to buyit as when they ordered it in it was the valve only with no solenoid or tophat.Came in isuzu box and in that there was only the valve in like a heat shrink foil bag thing.
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 23:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats it it's all in there as long as the foil bag hasn't been opened and someone has nicked it!
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dan dodson
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Location: Rocchester, kent

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 21:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

urm...............

i suspect this is what i'm going have to do.

Dose this item need coding to the tech 2 when anew one fitted???
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 21:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

nope just fit it and start it up
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dan dodson
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 23:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

SWEET!!

looking at the download manual off the jeeplog etc... the oil presures sensor is in the oil rail under the rocker cover or am i completely wrong?? as these pic seems to suggest its down low towards the front of engine????
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ladydriver
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 23:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the ROPCV = Rail Oil Pressure control valve - the one you are thinking about is the ORPS/ROPS = Oil Rail Presssure Sensor
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boyddean
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is a great posting

am i right in thinking if this thing sticks its a non start for the engine

I have a non starter that i spent all yesterday on and still no joy

I know its not the

ORPS
Fuel
Crank sensor
ECU

so going to have a stab at this thingy

I seem to remember a highly to remember a highly tech bit of advice from MR E

about poking open with a screwdriver to check

any advice

cheers
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes and yes !!!!
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boyddean
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 16:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

eithan h wrote:
Yes and yes !!!!



is this audi speak

this is odviously what you keep saying to the birds in their Audi soft tops

you are clearly lacking in sausage butties...........bet the intended has you on a salad diet now

just clarify how i broddle it with screwdriver please mate

remember I am no tech just a thick yorkshire man so keep it simple

and by the way the durham lads told me the secret of a long marriage is all down to the rule of thumb

cheers

simon
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boyddean
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 16:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just be thinking.................................

shall i stay infornt of blazing log fire or go back to very cold workshop

anyway

if valve is stuck shut presume no oil goes up high pressure oil pipe to rail hence non start

so if i crack the 27 mm nut

crank it over and oil does not fly out..... then it could be this thing

if oil flys out then valve is probably working

make any sense ??????????????????????????

cheers
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Gribble
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 19:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

No not really as its a pressure system so relies on building up and maintaining ,not on flow which you would see .

If I were you I'd get a hydraulic q/r pressure test fitting (minmess types ideal) brazed onto an old HP oil pipe and a gauge with a flexy pipe so you could see if the pressure is rising up till you blag a tech 2 somewhere .

With the ropcv you poke a wd40 straw up it like I am doing in the pics and see if the tiny piston moves away then returns on its own nice n smooth,mind you this is not allways a foolproof test as I found out with andys 3.0 the other day ! But it is a good starting point .

I would just have a good valve about and swap it .
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