Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

[ytzuzu]

'92 bighorn 3.1 turbo diesel 4jg2. how can I get more power?? Read all about bigger exhaust, intercooler etc. guess the question would be... how do I turn up the injector pump? Pics as to where adjustment screw is?? or diagram? boost adjustment?boost fooler? Any and all advice needed and welcome. thanks

[Google]

[:::Matski:::]

The easiest way to turn up the boost is by putting a boost controller or bleed valve in the turbo to waste gate actuator hose. The simplest way to turn up the pump is to pull the tin cap off the screw on the back of the pump (near the stop solenoid), undo the lock nut with a 13mm deep socket and turn clockwise with a screw driver.

What I have done is to rotate the diaphragm to the max setting, turn the max fuel up 1/3 of a turn and remove the washer that stops the plunger going down any further inside the pump. This gives more fuel on boost, with no excess smoke lower down the revs.

This may help, although its not exactly the same.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

[CJ]

I've been reading a few similar threads with some interest.

Seems to me (and I am very possibly the least knowledgeable on the subject) that pump meddling is a rather risky business, and for what kind of real world gains?

I'll be looking into a free-flow air filter, and a custom big bore exhaust, no worries - they are no brainers.

EGR removal/blanking again seems to be easy, risk free (unless you live in the arctic) and returns nothing but positives.

But all I'm doing is trying to make the engine work more efficiently therefore slight improvements in performance and economy and slightly less wear on parts as the engine will be less strained.

But to mindlessly seek more power from a massive 4x4 seems a bit pointless.  I mean, how much real increase do you ever actually get?

When on the road, you don't want to fire a trooper about like its a GTi, you want to minimise noise, fuel burn and tyre wear.  So drive it properly and accpet you didn't buy a GTi.

Off road, in 4WD Low box, you don't need a lot of power to get about.  Rev an engine up and you are in the power band, not down low in the torque - so you'll likely just spin away any traction there was.

The standard 3.1 seems (although I've yet to really get it muddy) to have plenty of grunt to pull itself over anything the chassis tyres and diffs can handle.

Why this obsession with ultimate power?

The hot hatch market in tuning services has surely taught us all that if you tune a motor up, it'll become less reliable and more costly to run.

Just my point of view, not a rant.
_________________
Cheers

CJ
1993 Isuzu Trooper 3.1TD Duty 5 Door (Is that 6 doors?)
1994 Mercedes e220 Estate Auto 7 Seater

[:::Matski:::]

[CJ]

Forgive me if it seemed critical - not my intention.

Mindless was maybe a bit strong  

I did say that I know very little about diesels.  Petrols, that's my background.

When I hear about turning up pumps then hear about that needing to be done on a rolling road to get it right, then hear stories about that's why you see smoky pug 306's biffing about - I get nervous.

I'm all for getting more out of my engine in a safe and controlled way.

I'd like to do that, but at this point I'm terrified to do anything to the pump because I don't understand what it all means / does.

Maybe I am being chicken licken here, maybe it's all ok and fiddling with the pump is not a problem, maybe there is no risk of making it smoky, burning through fuel like a glaswegian at a pint, maybe there is no chance of kanckering any part of the engine.

If not, then why doesn't the manufacturer do it in the factory?  I realise from my petrol engines that makers have to compromise and make it pass emmissions tests, but beyond that, I am unclear why there is so much scope to tune a derv at will?

If y'all can help me, maybe I will be comfy to take a screwdriver to my trooper and turn up the wick a bit.  

Sorry again if I came across as being smarty-pants.
_________________
Cheers

CJ
1993 Isuzu Trooper 3.1TD Duty 5 Door (Is that 6 doors?)
1994 Mercedes e220 Estate Auto 7 Seater

[:::Matski:::]

No worries.

Tuning diesels is safer in a way as the lean rich thing does not apply. Its just a case of keeping it cool and getting enough air in to burn the extra fuel. If you put a bit too much fuel in it just smokes a bit, it doesn't do any harm.

The main consideration is EGT's, let them get too high and you will kill turbos. A free flow big bore exhaust with a straight through can will help here. Note that there are no pack pressure issues with a diesel either, so any big exhaust will be fine.

Don't get me wrong the stock 3.1 is fine as it is for most, but if you do a lot of heavy towing or more serious modded off roading then its a real boon. Also some people just like to mod their truck for no real reason.

The best way to approach it is to note down all adjustments so you can put it back to stock.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

[CJ]

I am familiar with modding a car for no good reason.  

Thanks.

Once I have the zorst and air filter sorted (anyone know where I get a hi performance filter for a 3.1?)  I may well look into this sort of thing.

Expect a stack of dumb questions from me then.
_________________
Cheers

CJ
1993 Isuzu Trooper 3.1TD Duty 5 Door (Is that 6 doors?)
1994 Mercedes e220 Estate Auto 7 Seater

[:::Matski:::]

I chucked a K&N in from Halfords, then made a new intake that can be moved to the grill for cold air.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

[CJ]

I'd like to keep the standard airbox, as I hope to put a snorkel on to the car later on.
_________________
Cheers

CJ
1993 Isuzu Trooper 3.1TD Duty 5 Door (Is that 6 doors?)
1994 Mercedes e220 Estate Auto 7 Seater

[:::Matski:::]

I just turned mine round. But the Mk1 box is steel, so easy to mod.

Re, snorkels. I know a good few with them and hardly have ever actually used them. If you put your car deep enough in the water to need a snorkel you can forget using it as a daily driver unless you remove all the carpets. I have a flexible hose attached to the air box, I can then move it to the bulkhead for fording and have had water to bonnet level like that.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

[CJ]

I just want the snorkel to put my breathers somewhere  

Not really.

I just like keeping the airbox stock....

Ta mucho.
_________________
Cheers

CJ
1993 Isuzu Trooper 3.1TD Duty 5 Door (Is that 6 doors?)
1994 Mercedes e220 Estate Auto 7 Seater

[cdavie]

Sorry for bumping an old (and a little headed) topic  
But did you see much in the way of gains? I'm looking at getting a ss exhaust made up from the manifold back 3" or 4" probably, and plan to do a little bit of tweaking to the fuelling and boost along with a decent air filter. I really don't like the idea of using a bleed valve to up the boost and would rather look into a management mod instead if possible? either way I don't think my car is boosting as it should, as theres little difference when the turbo is supposed to come in, and its rather quiet too. Another thing we noticed when driving home from picking up the car, is the total lack of smoke from the back, maybe its not getting as much fuel as it needs?

On my old escort rs turbo, we used to turn the actuator rod to make the boost stay on longer (after fitting an upgraded ecu to give more fuel and bypass the overboost cutoff). Is it a similar story with these? I think I went from 12 - 16 psi without any probems at all back then.
I also have an old intercooler from my track car laying around, its rather huge but I'm sure I could find a space for it in the front!! is this really needed or is the top mount one getting enough cold air up there?
Cheers, and sorry if you guys are sick and tired of these tuning questions!

[:::Matski:::]

There is no management to modify, this is a very basic diesel engine with no ECU. Whats wrong with a bleed valve? You can wind in the actuator arm but all this does is compress the spring so it wastes at higher boost, the same more or less as bleeding the air off. You can get control valves with a spring in that are better than the ones with just a cone on the end.

You can see good gains but it will never be fast. Worth it if you want a bit more pep or tow a lot. It also handy if you are fitting taller tyres.
_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

[cdavie]

Sorry for bumping an old (and a little headed) topic  
But did you see much in the way of gains? I'm looking at getting a ss exhaust made up from the manifold back 3" or 4" probably, and plan to do a little bit of tweaking to the fuelling and boost along with a decent air filter. I really don't like the idea of using a bleed valve to up the boost and would rather look into a management mod instead if possible? either way I don't think my car is boosting as it should, as theres little difference when the turbo is supposed to come in, and its rather quiet too. Another thing we noticed when driving home from picking up the car, is the total lack of smoke from the back, maybe its not getting as much fuel as it needs?

On my old escort rs turbo, we used to turn the actuator rod to make the boost stay on longer (after fitting an upgraded ecu to give more fuel and bypass the overboost cutoff). Is it a similar story with these? I think I went from 12 - 16 psi without any probems at all back then.
I also have an old intercooler from my track car laying around, its rather huge but I'm sure I could find a space for it in the front!! is this really needed or is the top mount one getting enough cold air up there?
Cheers, and sorry if you guys are sick and tired of these tuning questions!

[The Laird]

CJ wrote:
The hot hatch market in tuning services has surely taught us all that if you tune a motor up, it'll become less reliable and more costly to run. Just my point of view, not a rant.

Matski wrote:-
Maybe so but if you are sensible, you can make a big difference and improve economy and drive-ability without affecting reliability

It can be done. I took a small block Chrysler of a mear 230bhp and worked on it. The estimate, using Chrysler's book 'Pocket Dyno'
and 1/4 mile E.T.s and speeds, was 600bhp.    (I was doing low 9s).  It annoyed some racers because it was relyable.
The only two breakdowns I remember were: An exhaust valve head came off during a burnout at santa Pod, The exhaust valve head
is friction welded to the stem. (Of a different metal).  Took out a clutch in the automatic transmition. Fixed within an hour at the track.
Oh and I did snap a half-shaft off the line at Avon Park.  Was only to be expected. I always had spares with me.  They used to twist through
180 Degrees before they broke!  But then the Austin Westminster halfshafts were never meant to take so much power!