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electric aerial

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bryan307
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Joined: 28 Oct 2006
Posts: 121
Location: cannock staffordshire

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 21:10    Post subject: electric aerial Reply with quote

i have checked the fuse and there is power to the switch by gear stick but since the fuse to central locking went which i changed the aerial is not working as any one got any ideas,i have tried to pull aerial out manually but it wont budge
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 21:10    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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ladydriver
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Joined: 30 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Worcestershire

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 11:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you grip any part of the mast, if so put aerial switch to up and pull, the whole thing gets very grubby and sticks.

If you can't you will probably have to drop the aerial unit out and take it apart to unjam it (you can test power continutity there as well), best to pull the 10amp fuse first in footwell fusebox

To remove drop the flexible plastic wing liner by removing the clips and the aerial is released by undoing the the top nut on the wing mount, it should come undon quite easily (possibly using needle nosed pliers if it is the one with notches), and then undoing the nut and screw fixing the unit to the body in the foot well.  You should be able to ease it past the side repeater and drop it down to work on (you don't need to break any wiring to do it).

Undo the casing (and central screw) and inside you will have the spool that holds the nylon cord that puts mast up and down if you then take all the cord off the spool and you should be able to push/pull mast out top of unit.  Once mast is out pop it all back to gether reconnect fuse and see if you are getting power to unit, if yes just clean up mast, refix aerial to wing (temporarily putting top nut on for position).

To refit mast, remove top nut and feed nylon line (which should have a small knob on the end) into cleaned tube and the aerial if it is operating Ok will be already turning and will grab mast and pull it ito unit (may need a bit of wiggling to get it to engage), it helps to have someone else pull the fuse to stop it before it totally pulls mast in, then refit top ring, make sure it works OK and if it does refit wing liner -

Obviously if there is no power getting to the unit there would either be a wiring fault through the bulkhead (I think there is a connector somewhere up on the LHS of the passenger (UK) footwell (but we ddn't need to touch that in our case). or the alternative is a new unit which I think are expensive on their own (masts about £20 on Eblag) and most folks make cheaper arrangements and forego automation!!
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ladydriver
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Joined: 30 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Worcestershire

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 11:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry - noticed an error - the nut and screw to undo the aerial mount is in the wheel well NOT the footwell - getting carried away
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JDW
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honda
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Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 10
Location: St Brelade

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 17:25    Post subject: secondary fusebox Reply with quote

best to pull the 10amp fuse first in footwell fusebox

Sorry to be a fope but I cannot find the footwell fusebox! Where is it please?

2002 RHD Trooper 3.0

Thanks
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linmagic
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Joined: 21 Aug 2009
Posts: 29
Location: Bedfordshire

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 17:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is in the driver's side, footwell very close to the door and close to the floor.  There is a little door with "FUSE" written on it.  My other half actually gave up looking for it so it is not easy to see.  I found it so must be a "man" thing.   Laughing

Lin
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honda
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Joined: 23 May 2010
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Location: St Brelade

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 18:22    Post subject: Fuse Box- electric aerial Reply with quote

Thanks Lin

Found it right where you said it was!

(Being a man I couldn' keep my eyes open while balancing my nose on the floor).

Still couldn't find a fuse for the electric aerial which seems to have gone "live" and retracts at will then jams with the electric motor running even with the ignition off  but will try removing fuses one at a time when convenient.

Thanks
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ladydriver
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Joined: 30 Apr 2006
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Location: Worcestershire

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 19:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Need to pull the fuse pronto or the motor will drian your battery if it continues to run - The fuse is C11 and I think it is on the bottom bank nearest the door opening (controls audio and mirrors)
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honda
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Location: St Brelade

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 20:19    Post subject: electric aerial Reply with quote

Thanks, that the one I thought it was but it made no difference! Appreciate you assistance because as you pointed out I am concerned about running the batteries flat.

Problem seems to have ceased for the moment after pushing and pulling the aerial until motor stopped with aerial only up about six inches up and will leave things alone until I have time to pull the whole thing apart.

Thanks again.
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scj103
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Joined: 07 Feb 2009
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Location: Norfolk (watton)

PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 20:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so here is my analysis having now done the whole job start to finish:-

Firstly the fuse on the 3.0 (dont know about 3.1) is NOT C11.  Its C16, which is the cabin accessories, clock lamp, and central locking.
So having pulled that fuse, we have peace...

This is where I started:-

Remove the top nut holding to the wing - try ejecting the aerial by putting it up. (May need radio & ignition for this)

If the aerial is not ejected, PUT THE NUT (and black plastic piece) BACK ON!
This will save you damaging the wing and the aluminium lower part.

Be brave.  In the end, the copper shims holding the aerial in the aluminium casing had corroded so much so that they would not shift.  Ultimately I had to BREAK THE AERIAL OUT!  This was done with mole grips pulling the aerial upwards, hard and viciously, even hitting the mole grips upwards with a hammer.  It took some serious force.  When it was out, I cut the (smooth) drive shaft to get the aerial out of the way.

Only when the aerial was out, was I able to remove (by folding into the middle) the shims, as they were seriously attached to the sides.
Once the shims are out, the black plastic collar on the aerial should be able to come upwards and bring the rest of the drive shaft up.  Only I had got fed up with the drive shaft not coming out as promised, so pulled it hard enough to try to bring the shims up, and the end came off the shaft. Its a small metal pin in a ball of plastic, not surprising really!

So, I needed a dismantle.
This is how:-

Remove N/S/F wheel.

A pair of pliers pulls the plastic clips out ( they are really crossheaded plastic screws, but mine just span in the outer, so i just pulled them out.) I think there are about 6 or 7 of these, you only need to go as far as the top of the wheel arch.  Pull the plastic clips out, and undo the two steel 10mm bolts (also + head screws) and remove.  NO NEED TO DRILL OUT RIVETS!  The panel is cut out around them.  Dislocate the panel and fold it infront of the hub assembly.  If you have now re-removed the top nut and plastic piece from the aerial, then you are two 10mm bolts away from removing the aerial.  Dont exepct to remove it and take it away from the vehicle. Not happening without cutting all the wires...

The two bolts are those holding the frame to the body - otherwise if you just remove the lower screws getting the unit past is a problem.
Pop the side repeater indicator out (slide forward or backwards) to get it out of the way.

Remove the two 10mm bolts and lower the aerial down.  You can then strip the aerial down from there and remove any bits you need to.  Be aware that when you remove all the screws (including that centre one) there are a couple of pins inside that could drop out, so open it with care.  Its worth cleaning up and white greasing (or vaseline) inside whilst you are there, and possibly resealing the top of the casing with silicon if the rubber seal disitegrates like mine did!

However  for £20 for a fleabay aerial and a few hours I have a fully extending and retracting aerial now
Smile

Thanks to those earlier posts that made this much easier.

Any questions just ask.

1. The panel you need to remove.
2. The panel folding forward.
3. The aerial from underneath still mounted.
4. The aerial connector from under the passenger footwell. Note that there is no connector for the aerial itsself, it runs straight to the radio!
5. Assembly with top cover removed. Two silver pins visible which can drop out.
6. Shaft drum removed for cleaning.  Driven sprocket now visible.


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aduncan
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Joined: 02 Jun 2005
Posts: 572
Location: YARM

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 10:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's great.

When Can I pop mine round !

Sadly I too have had to do all of that - but replaced the actual elec Aerial completely with one from Maplins.
I read here that it was a straight fit. It certainly wasn't.

However current problem I have is the teeth are stripped from a particularly cold morning we had so I need to have another dig at it.....
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honda
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Joined: 23 May 2010
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Location: St Brelade

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:26    Post subject: Electric Aerial Reply with quote

Don't know if this makes you feel better but my girlfriend insisted on getting this done by the dealer and was charged £238.57 for the aerial and £ 41.40 fitting. (No VAT) £280.00 to replace a radio aerial.  If there is a next time I will do it, thanks for the pics and instructions.
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griffter
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Joined: 07 Dec 2010
Posts: 955
Location: west sussex

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

if u cant do it yourself a cheaper option might be a car stereo place.
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scj103
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Joined: 07 Feb 2009
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Location: Norfolk (watton)

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 12:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you still have the original aerial, you could repair that one in preference to the maplin one - and do it off the vehicle before refitting the whole working unit...

Is the 'Yarm' in your location the North Yorks one? Smile
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65 plate Octavia Scout
'83 A reg 2CV...
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aduncan
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Joined: 02 Jun 2005
Posts: 572
Location: YARM

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 12:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

scj103 wrote:
If you still have the original aerial, you could repair that one in preference to the maplin one - and do it off the vehicle before refitting the whole working unit...

Is the 'Yarm' in your location the North Yorks one? Smile


Sadly the old unit was deader than the Parrot I bough  Wink

And Yes - Yarm as in Teesside / North Yorkshire.  Very Happy
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snowy1998
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Joined: 14 Jan 2011
Posts: 56
Location: Chorley, Lancashire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 21:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

if anyone needs an aerial mast (genuine isuzu part with black tip) i have both smooth and toothed versions and can do them for £22 with free delivery.

just drop me a pm
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