Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

[bazza2468]

Can any one give me an idea of which my Trooper has or what to look for. Its a 93 3.1td with the 4JG2 engine as i want to change the belt/chain.
Are any special tools needed to replace the belt/chain and any helpful tips would be much appreciated.

Barry

[Google]

[ft100]

I would have thought it would be a belt not a chain,when removing the belt be very carefull that every pulley is kept in position, if the cam pulley moves you could end up smashing the valves into the pistons or if you move it by only one tooth it will run rough and misfire, normal cost to have a cambelt done by a garage is between 100 - 150. I am not sure on your mechanical abilities but if in doubt let a garage do it, it could end up a lot cheaper in the long run, best of luck with it either way.

[suzu]

theres holes in the pulleys to put locking bolts to stop that happening still a bit fiddly to do though

[Paul V]

If you have a timing chain (as I do) just keep driving...
Cheers PV

[shinz]

The 3.1 Tds have either belt or gear driven timing mechanism, I was told by my local GM Isuzu dealer that if its a black cover then its belt, & geardriven if its a grey metalllic colour, I think the belt timing covers are plastic while the gear ones are cast from alloy. In simple terms I believe that after removing the fan & all v-belts from the front of the engine you then remove the bottom crankshaft pulley & then the top & bottom covers from the timing mech. You should then reinsert the crank pulley bolt & use this to turn the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder, at which time a notch inside the crankshaft timing pulley aligns with a pointer just above it. When this is lined up it should be possible to screw a M8 bolt thru the camshaft pulley & the injector pump pulley at about the 2 o'clock position, I think you need to remove the guide plates from these pulleys first. If these don't line up it may be necessary to rotate the crank by 360 degrees to bring these pulleys into alignment they having been 180 degrees out previously. A hint I was given while doing a timing belt on another vehcle was to mark the old belt & pulleys with a spot of typing correction fluid, then loosen off the tension pulley, lift off the old belt & then lay the new belt on top off it & transfer these marks to the new belt before placing the new belt on & lining the marks up with the marks on the pulleys. In any case there should be no slack between the camshaft & injection pump pulleys & the camshaft & crank pulleys, all the slack should be between the crank & injection pump pullys where the tensioning pulley will take it out. When this is done, retension the tensioning pulley with the tensioning arm, check that all marks still line up & there is no slack in the wrong areas. Lightly tighten up the tensioning pulley. Remove the locking bolts from the camshaft & injector pump pulleys. Apply a 9kg load to the end of the tensioning arm, loosen & retighten the tensioning pulley bolt. Rotate the engine 45 dgress anti clockwise & ensure that all the slack is on the tensioner side. With the 9kg load still on the tensioning arm slacken the tensioner pulley bolt & retorque to 76Nm. Remove tension from arm, return to TDC & check that when the pointer aligns with the crank pulley notch that the cam & injector pump locking bolts can be reinserted. Remove after checking. Secure tensioning arm back into position, refit the cam & injection pump pulley guide plates & as the Haynes manuals love to say "reassembly is the reverse of diassembly"
I stress that I have not done this but I've gleaned this info from a variety of sources, some on this forum & also the Haynes book for the Vauxhall Frontera which although having the 2.8 engine the procedure is said to be identical. I will be doing mine following this procedure in the next few weeks & when I do so I will post a fuller write up with some piccys. If anyone wants to follow what I've just written then on your head be it, this doesn't come with a guarantee although I believe it to be correct. If anyone can correct me on anything then YES PLEASE DO
HTH, Cheers, Steve
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95 Bighorn Fieldstar LS 3.1 TD

[jon willy]

Good Morning from the UK Steve.......... When you have to put it in writing it sounds lengthy and complicated but it is a relatively straight forward job agreed ........ taking the radiator out also gives you oceans of space.

All The Best Steve ......... Jon.
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why is the bit of wine I like always at the bottom of the bottle

[suzu]

also don't remove the crank bolt remove the 4 12mm bolts around the crank bollt then knock the pulley off

[shinz]

Paul V, Timing chain huh? I'm picking that you've got the V6 engine ? or is there another version of the diesel timing I haven't come across yet ( very likely, I don't claim comprehensive knowledge)?
Cheers, Steve.
PS Scary to think we were both at the key board at the same time, I bet yours was a quicker post than mine
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95 Bighorn Fieldstar LS 3.1 TD

[Steam Hound]

i done the job on my bighorn 4GJ2 engine, its a belt for sure it has 119 teeth and 32mm wide, i can get you the exact isuzu item code if you wish, isuzu belt will cost you about £36 inc of vat. the damper pully is held on by 4 x M8 screws, you will need a longish 12mm hex socket to reach them if i remember correctly -- hope this helps... i beleve solid grears are used but not for normal production models.. but i may well be wrong.
Get this have a feel of the timing belt cover !!!!
if its steel, you have a gear arrangment... if its PLASTIC is deff a timing belt !!.. 8) . .. Ray

[shinz]

Suzu & Steam Hound, I've had a feel around in the front of my timing pulley, & can feel the 4 bolts you both refer to, my question is, do these bolts thread into the front of the crankshaft timing pulley, which from illustrations I've seen appears to have a key in the spigot that sticks out the front of it, or is there a "hub" for want of a better term that is keyed over this spigot that the crankshaft pulley screws onto via these bolts? How difficult is it normally to remove the front pulley once these bolts have been removed? does this also mean that it is possible to change the timing belt without disturbing the front crankshaft pulley bolt? In my experience with other timing belts, these are often pigs( sorry The Pig) to get undone & it would be good not to have to do this. Cheers, Steve
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95 Bighorn Fieldstar LS 3.1 TD

[suzu]

yes they screw in to the pulley so no need to disturb the crank pulley bolt it is however a complete *beep* to get the pulley off. it's located by a little dowl and tends to be a very tight fit to knock off it wont just pull off lots of wd40 and a soft drift and hammer from under neath and work it from side to side it will come just be patient and don't hit it to hard or it could break the pulley.

[Steam Hound]

yes thats right, remove the 4 bolts and a couple of blows with a lump hammer and a soft drift will see it off, the small dowel acts as a timing pin, just so you can only put the pully back on one way !!
when you get the timing cover off, you will see marks how to line the camshaft to crankshaft up, when this is done you can screw 8mm bolts in the drive belt wheels, this will stop any rotation during belt change.
.. ray ..

[shinz]

Thanks guys for the info, now to get A into G & do the job, might even get organised enough to post some pics for others future reference, Might !
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95 Bighorn Fieldstar LS 3.1 TD

[shinz]

Thought this might be a useful link to anyone contemplating doing this job
http://www.clubisuzu.wellington.net.nz/Timing%20Belt%20Change%20for%20Isuzu%20MU%202.8TD.pdf
Cheers, Steve.
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95 Bighorn Fieldstar LS 3.1 TD

[greenwolverine]

Am looking at doing this job myself in a month or two
Does anyone have advice on

Replacing the camshaft oil seal as well as the front crank oil seals at the same time?

Secondly is it necessary to replace the tensioner pulley shown in some kits advertised?

Thanks