Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

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eithan h · Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 23:15 Post subject:

cheeky so and so i aint 70 yet!

DYLAN · Posted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 23:19 Post subject:

I hope for our sake your still here when you are 70 Wink

I'll only be 75 Very Happy

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2002 S-TYPE JAGUAR 3.0 SPORT

gbw36 · * Joined: 09 Dec 2009 Posts: 20 Location: SCUNTHORPE

Gents, after much thought and scrutiny of your superb instructions I have changed my timing belt and tensioner. Not as bad as I had feared. Whilst in the mood also changed all 4 glow plugs, which amazingly came out no trouble at all. I soaked them with Wurth in the morning, repeatedly sprayed them during the morning then took the old ones out after lunch. Changed all ancillary drive belts whilst at it too!
Overall a productive days work. One thing is still puzzling me though, the check engine light is on permanent and I suspect it might be the throttle body at fault after reading posts on the club pages. Is there any way that I can check this before taking to a tech 2 wizard? The truck is not very responsive or smooth when the throttle pedal is depressed especially at slower speeds, she seems to lurch a little if you see what I mean. Any thoughts please?
Eithan, Gribble and Devon David please accept my sincere thanks for all the brilliant advice you posted ref timing belt job......you have saved me a fortune gents!!

Cheers Graham.
3.0 troop, my baby.

eithan h · Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 15:09 Post subject:

thats what the forums all about thumbleft

snowy1998 · Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 2:57 Post subject:

does anyone have any advice on torqueing up the bolts, seems they need to be 2 and 5 Nm on the tensioner, most low end ratchet style wrenches seem to go upwards from about 20. The alternative is the bendy bar sort. Not really sure if I take the job on how accurate you need to be and to ask what anybody else uses.

thx

markymoan · Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 4:42 Post subject:

You use a spring balance (fishing scale)
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Red Robbo · Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:32 Post subject:

Toyota1986 · * Joined: 03 Oct 2010 Posts: 17 Location: Ireland

,,,,,,,, just so I can find this again

Xeffin1 · * Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport

I was just checking this older post regarding the cam belt change on the 4JX1 engine, looking at mine there are no marks whatsoever on the crank pulley, I have wire brushed it to a polished steel state and can see no marks at all, looking at the manual there is timing gearing behind the front alloy plate which i presume connects the crank to the camshafts by fixed gearing.

If that is the case does it matter what lines up with what, the oil pump constantly pumps diesel & oil to the injectors and does not seem to be timed, the injectors fire electronically and the belt is only linked to the Camshafts and fuel / oil pump.

Have i missed something? If i have, could you give a brief idea how it works so i can get my head around it. How often have you come across one with no notch or mark on the crankshaft pulley, the only way i would be able determine No1 TDC (if its needed) is if the cam is geared to the crank and i can rely on the valve position, failing that it would be injector removal to determine.

Thanks

eithan h · Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 15:51 Post subject:

there will be a notch on the inside edge nearest the ally cover and it lines up with the mark on the ally cover, it is a pig to see and is easier with the sound deadening removed.
the oil pump is gear driven off the crank inside the cover so you must make sure the crank is at tic before removing the belt. the pump is just a pump so the only marks you need to worry about are the cam and crank.

you could turn the engine until the cam is at tdc then check the mark on the crank, if you can see it great just finely adjust the engine until it's on tdc but if you can't then turn it again until the cam is back at tdc and check the pulley again, one of them should show the crank mark at tdc

Xeffin1 · * Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport

Thanks Eithan,

I think where i am having trouble is i replaced the pump some time back just before winter and couldn't get it to go, (all the usual suspects were taken care of and tested) although i locked the cam with a drill bit and aligned the timing mark on the pump it still hasn't fired so wondered if i have inadvertently got something out of alignment, when i line the cam marks the crank shows nothing, no marks, i turn the cam again full circle back to the mark and still no marks visible on crank pulley, i have rotated the crank very slowly from the top and underneath. I have removed the soundproofing and can see the big finger on the casing at 12 o'clock, will it be easier to remove No1 injector to try and determine TDC?

Cheers

eithan h · Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 16:56 Post subject:

lot of work not to mention you would need new seals when refitting the injector as reusing them on this engine is a big no no. the ecu needs to see crank and cam at the same time along with good oil pressure or it won't fire the injectors,
i've not seen a 3.0l without the notch but keep looking it is quite tiny.

Xeffin1 · * Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport

Cheers Eithan,
I will have another good look and see next week end if dry LOL
Maybe i need new glasses lol.

Thanks again and appreciated.

half · * Joined: 15 Sep 2012 Posts: 10 Location: new zealand

Just did mine, no dramas, took the top air box off,Air con belt,and pulley,Watch this as the washer is not captured, And I had to drop the belly pan to get mine when it fell down, took the fan cowl off took the fan off off took the timing cover off, .took the plug out of the crank nut used a bar and 24mm socket to turn it
.Once I could make out the crank TDC mark.{ it is real small} I put a blob of white paint on it and the cam pulley Turned the engine over until they looked close then put a inspection mirror on the crank pulley and turned gently until the Marks lined up.removed the tensioner and pulley
Now the only tricky part, put the belt on and made sure it was snug around the oil pump pulley. Put a couple of pegs on it to hold it. Made sure the belt was snug on the cam pulley. I had to move it a wee bit,say 1/3 a tooth to get the belt on, fit the tension pulley Put the centre bolt in and hand tightened it Put the tensioner blade on then used a bar to line up the small bolt on the other side.
Now recheck the crank timing mark and the cam timing mark if they are ok, turn the engine 2 revolutions and check again. If they are not ok by a wee bit say 1 tooth out still do the 2 revs and then do the whole process again.
The crank is quite touchy at this stage and can be moved by the tension pulley , or not being careful putting on the belt. If they are all good 37 ft/lb on the main bolt and it should be good. Put timing cover on put the air con pulley /belt and tension it, put bottom cowl in under the fan. put the fan on. them top cowl and the clips. refit the air box and bolt up
While I was in there a sprayed all the plugs with contact cleaner and cleaned the cam pulley pickup
Started real good and ran well