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Timing Belt - 3.0 Trooper

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SJHBryan
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Joined: 12 Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Location: West Midlands/Oxford

PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 16:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doing this job myself now but for the life of me, I cant find any markings on the crank pulley. I've removed the sound insulation and fan belts and cleaned up all the gunk off it. From what I gather they're on the back-most of the 4 'peaks', but are they on the side of the groove or on the 1-2mm wide perimeter? Also are they a series of pimples, depressions, lines, grooves or something else entirely. Also, is there just one?
I'm starting to get frustrated with this now as it seems like there's nothings there and I've been staring at it long enough to send anyone a bit mad!! Any help is appreciated
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 16:22    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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eithan h
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
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Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 20:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's a notch and a very small notch on the edge of the crank pulley nearest the ally casing, if you can't see it then turn the engine over until the cam is lined up then have a look. if you still can't see it turn the engine another complete turn until the cam lines up again and then have a look.
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SJHBryan
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Joined: 12 Apr 2016
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Location: West Midlands/Oxford

PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 18:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eventually found that small mark and did the timing as it should be- thanks Eithan. Now she starts and runs... badly. (The reason for having to sort out the timing is due to a head gasket job.)
PROBLEMS:
.Once oil and fuel filled all the right places and up to pressure, there was copious amounts of white smoke
.The engine wobbles a lot more than usual and doesn't sound like its on all cylinders from exhaust, but sounds almost normal from the front
.Also she wont switch off with the key so runs on until I stall it
.One final problem now is that the batteries aren't holding their charge overnight

I'VE TRIED:
.Cleaning and drying out all the connectors I had to unplug to do the head gasket but to no avail
.Letting the engine run up to temp but run on is smoother on ignition is off
.Replacing the diesel filter but not got round to doing oil filters yet

MY THOUGHTS:
.Clogged injector(s) from gunk around oil rail from me not cleaning properly which got pushed inside
.Timing belt jumped a tooth when first cranked
.I'm pretty sure the injectors are still in the same order (I know they're sensitive buggers but does the order matter?)
.Is it possible to clean these injectors by reverse flushing them while touching contacts on and off 12V supply or would that damage these?
.Would a compression test help?

Apart form that, I'm out of ideas so any help would be great-there may be more than just one root cause and I'm no expert at these things, I just know how to use a spanner!!
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eithan h
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
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Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 16:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

it won't start if your a tooth out which is a safety thing built in to it, you must be getting something in to the cylinders for it to run on so either diesel or oil which could be the reason for the smoke and the uneven running.
injectors are coded and unless the grade is the same on all the injectors which means it wouldn't matter where they go then yes they should really go back where they came from.
don't apply any voltage to them you could damage them.

did you use new seals?
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SJHBryan
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Joined: 12 Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Location: West Midlands/Oxford

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 20:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok well I think I did that all right then, she ran just fine before, bar the head gasket leak (not a major one but wanted to sort it before it go too bad). But no I didn't replace the seals because the injectors were replaced 4 years ago I think and when I removed them they looked in great condition- not much tinting at the tip and nothing above the seat for the seal.
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eithan h
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Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 18:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

first thing then is to change all the seals especially the copper ones they don't like being reused and can let diesel drip in to the cylinder causing all your symptoms
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SJHBryan
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Joined: 12 Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Location: West Midlands/Oxford

PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 20:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now my uni exams are over, I've had time to work on the car- I changed the copper washer and both O-rings per injector, tightened everything back up and noticed the drain plug on the oil rail was loose! Guess I didn't tighten it up properly when I was rushing before. Now its all sorted and seems to be running fine after a trip back down to Oxford. Moral of the story- Trust your instincts, listen to advice and don't rush!
Thanks for everyone's help again!
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Devonjames
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Joined: 08 Nov 2017
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Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 23:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Am I missing something, but would it not be possible to remove the timing cover, mark all pulleys with tip-ex against the back cover, loosen the tensioner slide old belt off, slide new one on, making sure all tip-ex lines line up, tighten tensioner still making sure all line up, then spin over and check again, if anything is amiss realign tip-ex. Why bother with tdc etc. Is the oil pump pulley timed, I guess not. Any thoughts would be gratefully received.
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 20:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can't see the crank pulley and whilst yes you can do it that way ( i do) some people who are not 100% sure like to make certain everything is at tdc
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troopermatter
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Joined: 22 Sep 2018
Posts: 100
Location: London

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 6:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, willing to have a go at the timing belt while everything else is apart.

There's a good deal on a Dayco timing belt kit (belt and tensioner) £40 shipped. What do you guys think? Cheers
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troopermatter
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Joined: 22 Sep 2018
Posts: 100
Location: London

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 20:58    Post subject: Camshaft Marker, Crankshaft TDC Marker, Cam belt Reply with quote

Finally decided to replace the cambelt on my 53 trooper. Only ordered the belt and tensioner so will get them by mid week hopefully.

Remember, I'm not a mechanic and this forum is a real gold mine for anyone owning or working on a trooper, and the 4JX1 in particular. We take from this forum and so "giving" a little in return is the least one can do if they can. So I here I have some "clear" pictures of the timing belt and the align marks on the camshaft and crankshaft TDC, if this can help.

Here I have aligned the marks and will leave it until I get the parts, obviously. Hope you enjoy.


1) T-belt overview

[img]http://[/img]


2) Camshaft aligned with marker

[img]http://[/img]


3) Crankshaft TDC view #1

[img]http://[/img]

4) Crankshaft TDC view #2




You will notice I have not used paint paper "Tipp-Ex" and yet you can easily spot the align marks, even the tiny one on the crank pulley. I will though do when I get the parts before I carry on doing the job. The moisture you can see is just lubricant I used to clean the align mark otherwise couldn't see it.
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Last Boy Scout
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Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 18:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good evening.

Has anyone got a link to the instruction for doing the Timing Belts?

Do I need a Special Spanner for the Fan?

Thanks.
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eithan h
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
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Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 18:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

no the fan stays on and no special tools needed and just follow the pics above it's dead easy to do
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Last Boy Scout
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Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 19:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome.
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Last Boy Scout
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Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 8:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you always need to replace the tensioner?
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