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Convert trooper engine from 3.0 to 3.1

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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 15:50    Post subject: Convert trooper engine from 3.0 to 3.1 Reply with quote

Hi all.
  I have a 3.0 and a 3.1 trooper I plan to put the 3.1 engine in the 3.0 trooper.

Just wondering if anyone knows if the flywheel and clutch from the 3.0 are needed for the conversion can the clutch of the 3.1 be used with the 3.0 gerabox?

Also anybody know if the the engine mounts are the same in the 3.0 as the 3.1?


Any information on the subject would be very helpful.
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Gribble
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
Posts: 8448
Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 19:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you read the posts by bigb the swap is well covered .  Wink
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 0:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Gribble,
      Hadn't come across that post in my previous searches, I have it book marked now Smile.

It looks like drakey has successfully converted his 3.0 to 3.1.

I wonder how its going for him now.

So it looks like the 3.0 DMF and clutch will work on the 3.1 and that the engine mounts are also the same. (thats good news)

I guess if I have any questions in the future I should put them in the other thread.
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markallen567
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Joined: 07 Mar 2010
Posts: 27
Location: kent

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi i converted mine a few months ago i'm very pleased with it only a few concerns and problems. i would get a donor vehicle to strip or have a breakers nearby that has one to break. you have to remove the steel plate from the 3.1 and put the ally plate from the 3.0 onto the 3.1 it is held on to the engine with 3 bolts these three bolts are the only ones that hold the gearbox to the engine as all other holes on the ally plate do not line up and you have to use nuts and bolts so i would drill more holes in ally plate to engine side. I used throttle from an older trooper it fitted straight in just remove rubber grommit. My other problem was the down pipe its a short pipe from the turbo on the 3.0 the flanges are inline and the 3.1 are 90degrees from each other it was an easy fix just ground flanges off and rewelded. Alternator is 3.1 which plugs into main loom on the charge side but it has 4 other wires you need to find the ignition light exciter wire i'll mail my number to you i'll help all i can. I also changed the oil cooler over as some peolple say it helps with oil changes as the newer one is tighter to the engine allowing easier removing of oil filter not sure about that you have to change water pipes around so get some pipe. If you use newer oil cooler just plug oil pressure switch in it will work with the ecu which i left in. If you want air con you have to use 3.1 and the pipes look the same but are not i had two pipes made up cost me £60 then gased all works well. Vacumn is surplied from alternator so you just need to reroute pipes and don't forget vacumn to 4 wheel drive system i think that covers it good luck its worth it mines great o and get air filter pipes and box with mount they are different. mark
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mark,
       Thanks for the details, I have a donor 3.1 so that should make things a littler easer by the sounds of it.

I was hoping that everything would bolt straight up but it looks like thats not the case. Its good to know in advance that a few sharp drill bits will be needed!!

I assume you used the 3.0 DMF and clutch, if so did it cause any problems with the balance of the 3.1 engine? does it vibrate more or anything.

Cheers..
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markallen567
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Joined: 07 Mar 2010
Posts: 27
Location: kent

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used the dmf clutch because i'd bought a new one mine doesn't vibrate at all but my friends 95 trooper vibrates
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 10:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

so maybe the dmf on the 3.1 is an improvement Wink !
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markallen567
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Joined: 07 Mar 2010
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Location: kent

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think so i'm happy with it
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drakey
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Joined: 29 Jan 2010
Posts: 243
Location: Leeds

PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 7:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bellhousing bolts are a pig, have loads off 1/2 " extension bars at hand. Good luck ill keep a eye on the thread and help if i can.
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markallen567
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Joined: 07 Mar 2010
Posts: 27
Location: kent

PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 8:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

ha yeah forgot about those you have to get them from the back of the gearbox with about 5 extension bars when i converted mine it was about the 4th time i'd removed the engine so was a dab hand at it ha
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16design
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Joined: 17 May 2010
Posts: 36
Location: Somewhere Out there

PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 18:48    Post subject: 3.0 to 3.1 swap Reply with quote

Hi,
I'm also keen on doing this swap but a bit gun shy.
If anyone can post some pics on how it can be done including what kind of tools, are needed.
thanks.
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 2:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a months mot left in the 3.1 so going to let that run out. I'll take photos along the way see if I can post them here when I'm doing it.
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 2:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All,
     Just getting ready to start swapping.

I'm about to remove the 3.0 engine.

One quick questions, can the gearbox stay in place? does it need to be lowered or anything?

Thanks In advance....
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drakey
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Joined: 29 Jan 2010
Posts: 243
Location: Leeds

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get the top bolts on the gearbox remove the engine mounts it will allow the motor to drop on to the axel .This will give you a little bit more room to work. When droping the motor back in it,s very tight itook off the sump pan and jacked the box up to the bulk head, happy spanering.
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 17:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks drakey.

Good to know it can be done without removing the box.

I don't have a lift so getting it out would be a tight squeeze.
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