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Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™
Isuzu Trooper, Rodeo, Bighorn, Mu & VehiCROSS Owners Club
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drakey
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Joined: 29 Jan 2010
Posts: 243
Location: Leeds
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 Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 19:16 Post subject: |
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| The wire on the injector pump no1 is the fuel shut off valve this needs a switch live the rest alter cold & hot running forget these. The clutch arm is fitted last through the removable plate on the bellhousing. the oil preasure switch should be the 3.0 one and is a like for like swap, the temp sensors are for hot and cold running the one you need to use is the left hand side one no1 ,Mark. |
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| Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 19:16 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland
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| Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 23:57 Post subject: |
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Thanks Mark, I wired up the sensor you pointed out, I also had to connect a third wire to a spad which can rotate 360 degrees just below it. Working perfect 
Got it up running now, I had to revert to the 3.1 oil filter housing as the 3.0 hits the turbo manifold. The 3.0 oil filter works on the 3.1 housing though.
The only thing I've left to figure out is the two pipes that come from the injection pump, I assume these should be connected to the air intake not sure which goes where. I'll try to get another pic of it. |
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drakey
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Joined: 29 Jan 2010
Posts: 243
Location: Leeds
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| Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 6:28 Post subject: |
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One pipe advances the pump for cold starting dont bother with that one andthe other conects to the intercooler near the intake butterfly, this gives the injector pump more boost when the turbo spools up. It wont pull the *beep* off a choclate mouse without it on  |
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland
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| Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:19 Post subject: |
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| Thanks Mark, feels right, no less power anyway. Must try it disconnected to see what the difference is. |
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diytrooper
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Joined: 11 Feb 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Ireland
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| Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 16:31 Post subject: |
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| Gribble wrote: |
Find the wire in the ECU plug from the glowplug relay and stick a push button switch in the dash so its earthed when pushed to work the plugs ,count ten before starting from cold .Use the 3.0 plug feed wire to the 3.1 plugs .
If you got 3 small wires out the 3.1 and you old 3.0 had one the ign one on the 3.1 needs to be live when the keys at on , the S one goes to the main fuse box feed and the L one wants to go to the coil on a normal closed type relay .
If you had 2 small wires on the 3.0 alt join the S lines together ,. The S line senses the alts output against load so keeps the volts up, if you go winching stick it to the + on the battery you winch off as it will keep the winch speed up .
Get the single wire that was on the old 3.0 alt and put it to the line in terminal on the relay and earth the other side .
Now when the engine starts the the L line goes live pulls the coil in so the ign lights not on and the 3.0 blue charge relay works the fan relay and 4wd .
Bout the easiest way without much chopping about . |
All was going well, but its not charging at the moment,
This is a 3.1 in a 3.0 body.
The battery light goes out once the engine is started and it has a new battery, but the battery is going down.
The 3.1 alternator has a three pin plug on one side and a larger single wire on the opposite side.
The 3.0 loom as two wires in a plug and a larger wire with a ring connector on it.
I connected the larger wires together, so I assume they are ok.
From gribbles post should I be joining the two wires from the 3.0 loom together?
and then connect these two wires to one of the wires on the 3pin connector which one should it be connected too? Meaning that the other two pins have nothing connected to them?
Thanks for any advice |
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MartyD
Newbie
Joined: 30 Mar 2020
Posts: 1
Location: Fermanagh
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| Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 19:34 Post subject: Has anyone got Rev counter work on 30 3.1 engine |
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Versatile
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Joined: 19 Aug 2015
Posts: 50
Location: Worcestershire
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| Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2020 19:02 Post subject: |
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There was a guy who would help you with a small electrical component because the 3.0 takes it from a different place to the 3.1.
I don't have the details so can't help I'm afraid.
I'm currently doing the swap and I might try to find an individual rev counter and get a pick up from somewhere else. A pulley may be, like on a push bike. |
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eithan h
Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005
Posts: 8195
Location: oxfordish
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| Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2020 19:10 Post subject: |
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| the common fix now is to drill a hole to fit the sensor in before dropping the engine in place |
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Versatile
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Joined: 19 Aug 2015
Posts: 50
Location: Worcestershire
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| Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 10:11 Post subject: |
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| eithan h wrote: |
| the common fix now is to drill a hole to fit the sensor in before dropping the engine in place |
I read this the day after I got my gearbox bolted in.
I've saved the bits and might do it if/when I have to get the gearbox out again. I've used one for years without a rev counter so it would be a luxury.
I managed to get a few more bolts in the cover plate so I think I have 5 in now. I got all the bolts to hold the gearbox in but it took a bit of butchery to make enough space for nuts on the engine side. They need to be the flat head sort too or will interfere with the flywheel.
I've used the 3.0 glow plug system. I've just used a small push button to connect the negative side of the wiring. It's the small black wire, with a blue line in it, which is from/to the relay box behind the main fuse box in the engine bay. The other relay is for the starter motor.
The button isn't activated by the ignition so don't keep your finger on it. 10 or 12 seconds should have it going without flattening the batteries.
I've given it a shakedown and it's ok so far.
Except the brakes. I've used the 3.0 alternator but I think I need the pump on the back of the 3.1 alternator.
Time to get the spanners out again and que the A Team theme tune. |
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