Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

[jbaker]

I haven't changed the thermostat. I assumed that Carstins would have checked it but they never mentioned it. Maybe I assumed too much. I'll call them to check.

Is there a way I can test the thermostat without removing it (I'll check other posts in this forum)? It's been a long time since I did any DIY of this type on a car but I'm reluctant to hand more cash over to dealers, so I might give it a go.
_________________
3.0 TD Trooper Citation

[Google]

[suzu]

to be honest for what they cost i would just replace it it's at the other end of the top hose undo the 2 bolts and lift the casting up and your looking at it it's that easy.

[Philp]

Also, when you get your new stat check to see if it has a little bypass hole in the flange, most should, it allows a little water past the stat even when cold to keep a slight current to the rad. If tere isn't one I suggest drilling a 3mm hole in the flange. I've heard of a lot of overheating problems cured this way.
_________________
Phil

96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus

[jbaker]

I've ordered a thermostat, though I'll have to wait until next week for it so my plans of tackling it this weekend are blown.

Thanks for the advice about drilling a hole.
_________________
3.0 TD Trooper Citation

[jbaker]

I collected the new thermostat on my way home from work this evening. It already has a little hole in the flange with a small 'pendulum' hanging in it - what does that do, it looks like it could sometimes seal the hole? I'll be removing the old thermostat on Saturday.

Another question: The new one has a rubber ring around the edge of the flange - do I need a gasket for the thermostat housing in addition to that?
_________________
3.0 TD Trooper Citation

[suzu]

the small hole is to allow air to bleed through it and the rubber ring around the edge is the gasket just unbolt the housing remove the old one fit the new one bolt the housing back down job done

[jbaker]

Thanks suzu. What torque setting do I use when I bolt the housing back down?

So the hole is not to let liquid through then. Is the metal 'pendulum' in the hole to stop liquid getting through?
_________________
3.0 TD Trooper Citation

[suzu]

20nm is the torque not sure if it supposed to stop water but it's called a jiggle valve in the manual!

[jbaker]

Thanks for the torque setting. I can see why its called a jiggle valve!

The old thermostat was definitely weak. In boiling water it opened 4.5mm, but the new one opened 7.5mm which would obviously improve the flow.

I think I've made progress but I'm not sure I've totally cured it with the new thermostat though. A 20 mile run up the motorway at 75mph did not make the temp gauge go very high (only just right of centre) and I didn't get a "check engine" lamp, but I still got coolant spewing out of the overflow of the reservoir (I started the journey with the level on max, max to overflow is about 1/2 litre).

I'm surprised by the coolness of the centre of the radiator (the rear surface, just in front of the fan). The top & bottom hoses are hot, the top and sides of the radiator are hot, the middle is cold. Is this normal, even for a hot engine, or does it mean I still have a low water flow through the rad?

I have yet to check the bottom hose for collapse. I assume you do it by feel - I'll have to be careful to avoid the fan as I grope for the hose from underneath.

The cabin heater seems to produce a healthy blast of heat, does that mean the water pump is OK?
_________________
3.0 TD Trooper Citation

[suzu]

the rad will probably be cold due to the fan running all the time after a run on a trooper i've been working on you can remove the bottom hose and the water is cold at first but then the hot stuff comes out and that one doesn't over heat. im surprised though that the needle moving slightly is enough to blow the water out does it smell of diesel at all?
if the hose has collapsed it will only be visable when cold as the water expands as it gets hot it would reinflate it as the pressure in the system increases.
the water pump is what the fan is bolted too i've never experienced one where the shaft has broken and the fins are metal not plastic so it's highly unlikely that it would have gone.
on the rad cap has the rubber expanded at all making it difficult to put back on?

[NickP]

I had a similar problem on a 3.1 that I was using,what it did was fill the expansion tank up over a couple of days with no overheating but with a little bubblingin the water, I just put the contents of the tank back in the rad and that filled it up until the next time! The head gasket was the fault on that one>it had just started to blow into the waterway!! I have also had the same problem on my race engine which actually resulted in a melted no4 piston(twice)! That turned out to be a localised heat problem which a bottle of water wetter/coolant conditioner solved.

Your problem could be a waterflow(has anyone put radweld or similar in) problem that a flush through might cure.Or it might be an airlock.

[EILIDH]

What a scary site this is - recalls / campaigns !!!
I've owned my 'T' reg 99 3.0TD Citation Trooper since May 2005.
All went well for the first 4000 miles or so including long motor way runs and some testing rough hill roads in the Central Highlands of Scotland.
No problems big capable and enjoyable motor car.
Over past few weeks, however, I have been experiencing a few problems which I'm hoping for some guidance on.

CHECK ENGINE warning light started to come on about 4 weeks ago.

Thinking that maybe the car hadn't been serviced as thoroughly
as it should have been when I bought it I decided to get it done.
I had the car serviced at the local Land Rover garage but they were unable to identify why the CHECK ENGINE warning light was activating.
They did comment that the engine and turbo appeared to be quite noisy.
They also, ominously, asked if I had a warranty. (I don't)

Symptoms -
Car running normally (no check engine warning light) suddenly there is a lack of power from accelerator then a jolt with power returning and the
'check engine' warning light alluminating and engine clatters louder.

Sometimes car starts with 'check engine' warning light on. the engine clatters louder. Sometimes start without 'check engine' warning light.

It was sometimes stalling at idle and even stalling , even when the engine was warm, at a junction, with 40 miles covered from start up (although this hasn't happened since it was serviced)

The Turbo has always been loud since purchased.

I left the car a full day without starting it. The following day is turned over but failed to start.
Eventually after continual cranking 10-15 minutes later it blasted into life with a blast of fumes (which cleared quickly). Of course the 'check engine' warning light came on.

I gave it a good long run (50 miles ) yesterday. It sounded and felt fine. 'Check Engine' warning light stayed off.
We stopped went for a walk came back 1.5 hours later started it up engine started with a clatter 'check engine' light came on.
Drove the 50 miles back home with 'check engine' light on without mishap.

Is the head gasket / turbo issues I'm reading about likely to be the problem ?
Should I be contacting International motors and asking about campaigns (don't mention recalls) on my Trooper. ?
Will they pay for the campaigns if any are outstanding (Ha ha ha !!!!).

Should I get give up on this machine before I can fully enjoy the splendour of the heated seats in a snowy winter in Scotland ?

What is snow ?

[fifth4x4]

Snow is that white stuff forecast for the weekend in the Highlands
_________________
97 3.1TD LWB RED!

[Philp]

Really, snow for the weekend? eres to a long cold snowy winter then! (I know my Trooper drives great in the white stuff)
_________________
Phil

96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus

[frank sucevic]

i had this problem with my turbo transit it had all the signs of being a early head gasket problem but no water in the oil spoke to bri at goldthorpe and he said ive seen this before put a new rad cap on the one with the spring, i did it was cured for a few quid no labour problems or big bills to check this possible cure. hope you fix it cheaply mate. frank sucevic