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Tipperary Newbie
Joined: 02 Nov 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Kilkenny
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 11:30 Post subject: White smoke |
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Hi All
Have a 2003 3.0 trooper with 96,000 miles. recently the dual mass flywheel went and I got my local mechanic to replace it for me. when he fitted it the first time it would not start and he had to take it off again and time it right. Since it got it back it has been blowing white smoke and does not want to take a rev when started cold. The smoke is not like steam but stinks of Diesel. when i say it does not want to rev, it will stumble and then surge when you try to rev it in gear or in neutral.
It also blew the fuse for the glowplug circut, when we went investigation we found that two of the 4 plugs are gone 2 &3. they also happen to be ceased in the head. The mechanic thinks that if we take off the head and drill replace the glow plugs it will solve the problem, but i'm not so sure and dont want to spend the money on doing it to still have a problem.
There is no water in oil or diesel in oil. she was serviced one week before the flywheel went. could it be something else or will I have to take the head off.
Has anyone else had similar issues, she is going brilliantly when warm and is a lovely 4x4 to drive |
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 11:30 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Gribble *******
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 8448 Location: Holset H221W
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 12:02 Post subject: |
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Hmm some issues here - Have to guess that the tech did time the flywheel right second time around Its #1 on tdc and the small cut out in the flywheel at 6 o'clock , if he did then its going to be something else .
Just check that the engine heater switch is not on (by the 4wd switch) as that will make it smoke .
Does the car run ok when it warms up ? the plugs only glow for 3 mins after starting and by then the engine should be warm enough to run ok , 2 plugs will start it but it will rumble a bit when its cold weather .
If its no better with a hot engine then the clearence betwen the crankshaft position sensor needs to be checked (behind the oil filter ) as it can get biffed when the flywheels changed, normally would put the engine check light on but not allways .
My own 3.0 does this when the weather goes cold and its the orps (oil rail pressure sensor) at fault but once the engines warm its fine . _________________ 2 New Troopers ! |
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Tipperary Newbie
Joined: 02 Nov 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Kilkenny
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 12:12 Post subject: |
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Thanks for the quick reply, with regard to the flywheel being timed right, is it true that it will only start in one position, as it was running perfectly before flywheel went and starting rough afterwards I keep thinking it has to be something to do with the flywheel being changed. |
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Gribble *******
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 8448 Location: Holset H221W
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 14:26 Post subject: |
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Its true if you get it well out but not sure about if it was one bolt hole off , have to ask eithan h as he does loads of them .
It should make the check light flash at you and not crank at the right speed but not having timed one wrong (so far !) the only way to check is with a tech 2 computer or take the box out again .
Without wanting to be unfair to your tech if he took off a bit of soundproofing to see the TDC marks on the front timing cover he's done it right if not it needs checking again .It cant be done off the timing belt pulley marks . _________________ 2 New Troopers ! |
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Tipperary Newbie
Joined: 02 Nov 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Kilkenny
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Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 17:40 Post subject: |
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I was paying more attention to how it is driving today, the check light is flashing about every 6 seconds but only when doing under 2000 rpm, It also gives a chug or hesitates when at low revs. this is hot or cold. I am more and more leaning towards flywheel timing than heater plugs.
I also changed the throttle position sensor as the computer was reading low voltage and the check engine light had been on constant. its only since we changed this that i noticed the check engine light flashing |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 21:17 Post subject: |
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it won't start if it's one bolt hole out it has to be spot on and the timing ring on the back should only fit on in one place as well so if the engine starts then it's all ok and you can't adjust anything. was it a genuine flywheel as there has been issues with non genuine flywheels being a tad thin and altering the gap between the the sensor and the timing ring. |
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Tipperary Newbie
Joined: 02 Nov 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Kilkenny
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Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:51 Post subject: |
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Hi Ethan
As far as I am aware it is genuine Isuzu, He said it came in Isuzu Box. I was starting perfectly (for a trooper!) prior to flywheel being changed, once i got it back smokey rattely and not taking rev when cold. To me it has to be something flywheel based. My mechanic is convinced that as you said it will only start in one position. As he had to get engine to tdc due to not marking the flywheel coming off could it be possible he was slightly off tdc.
Should If it was the flywheel sensor or the wrong flywheel would it throw a code
Many thanks |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 21:19 Post subject: |
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nope it won't throw a code up if it's set wrong, there are only 8 bolts holding the flywheel on if it was slightly off tdc when he bolted it up as long as he had got the flywheel in the correct position it would start. in theory the flywheel can go on in any one of 8 positions but it will only start in the correct one so as it's starting i'd say he has it right.
the timing ring will only bolt to the flywheel in a certain position due to bolt holes and locating dowels so you would have to be a right animal to get it wrong which would then put the timing out so the cam and crank sensors won't see each other at the same time so the ecu only sees the first 100rpm then switches off as it knows the timing is wrong so won't inject to save damage to the engine.
as you have no throttle response when it starts i'd get it on a tech2 and get the orps checked out as it's the main cause of no throttle response along with the incorrect grade of oil and the strainer seals leaking. |
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Tipperary Newbie
Joined: 02 Nov 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Kilkenny
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 13:05 Post subject: |
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Eithan I'd say you were on the money, I persuaded them to remove the box again and after fiddeling with the ring gear its is now starting and running perfectly, except for a flashing cel and flashing 4x4 light when engaged. cel he tells me is because the sensors on the throttle pot need to be adjusted, should they be set in a certain positon that that i could do my self,
4x4 is engaging but light flashing. thanks god it is engaging as there is a fair amount of snow between my house and the main rd at present!
Many thanks to again |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 13:46 Post subject: |
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if it's the tps then it needs replacing, it's quite common on these they fill up with oil and i'm sure they are a sealed unit so you can't get them apart to clean them out, the other problem is yours is a euro3 engine which means a whole new throttle body
the 4x4 light is most likely a broken wire around the front axle solenoids again quite a common thing |
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