4x4 & MPV Driver - 40% subscription discount

Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™
Isuzu Trooper, Rodeo, Bighorn, Mu & VehiCROSS Owners Club
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   Watched TopicsWatched Topics   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your personal messagesLog in to check your personal messages   Log inLog in 
CalendarCalendar  ITOCUK Club ShopClub Shop  ITOCUK Classified Ads serviceClassified Ads
ITOCUK HomeITOCUK Home   dynamic online chat serviceChatrooms  Yellow Diamond ClubsYellow Diamond Clubs

Fault finding the SOTF system.

Goto page : 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™ Forum Index -> Gearbox / transmission / 4WD
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 14:06    Post subject: Fault finding the SOTF system. Reply with quote

Ok … we seem to have an awful lot of questions on the operation and problems with the various SOTF 4WD systems on our troopers, and this was highlighted in the recent bad weather we have just had when people were using it for the first time in ages if ever. This is just a quick tutorial on how the system operates and how to troubleshoot any issues we have. It seems the most common cause of problems is the front axle solenoids and the front actuator attached to the front axle.

First off let’s give a rundown of the system and explain it in layman’s terms. I am going to concentrate on the push button type, but there are similarities between this one and the earlier lever type.

Ok your driving along and you see that 12” bank of snow in front of you on the road. No problem you think. I have a stonking Trooper and can just go 4wd as I move to get through it. You slow down as you approach and eagerly push the button. Glance down at the dash and the green 4wd light starts to flash. Keeps on flashing … hey its still flashing … dammit its not working and hasn’t engaged. What could of caused that to happen. Anyways you press the button again and the light goes out and you negotiate the snow anyways as the Trooper is still a formidable foe in the white stuff in 2wd anyways. You get home into your nice warm garage and start to look at the system then panic and hopefully have the brains to look at this tutorial.

Here is how the system works.

Essentially there are several key components to the engagement of 4wd. It starts with the little button on the dash, and here is the sequence of engagement.

1) Push button. This then sends a signal to the 4wd ECU to start the procedure. (dash light will start to flash)
2) 4wd ECU sends a signal to the actuator on the back of the transfer case to engage it to the gearbox. This naturally engages the front differential to the gearbox.
3) A switch on the back of the box is tripped by the transfer box and sends a signal back to the 4wd ECU.
4) On receiving this signal the 4wd ECU then sends a signal to each of the two axle mounted VSV’s (Vacuum Solenoid Valves) on the axle to change the flow of vacuum to the front axle actuator.
5) The front actuator then moves position connecting the two halves of the front nearside (passenger side) drive shaft.
6) The movement of the front actuator also trips another switch that in turn sends a signal to the 4wd ECU to tell it the front actuator is in the right position.
7) The 4wd ECU now knows everything is in the right place and turns the dash light on solid.
8) As the drive train is now engaged this then mechanically trips your front hubs to lock onto the drive shafts and voila you have 4wd.

Some pictures:

Transfer case:



Front VSV’s:



Front Actuator:



Wiring diagrams:







Vacuum Diagram:



Troubleshooting

Tools required:
Sidecutters
M14 socket and ratchet wrench
24mm ring spanner
Needle nose pliers
Multimeter

Spares required:
6m off 3mm internal diameter silicone/vacuum hose. (Go for blue and I will explain later).
Vauxhall sump plug copper washer
Electrical terminal cleaner
Carburettor cleaner
1 litre of 75R-90W gear oil
Blue Hylomar gasket sealant
Old rags
Tea
Biscuits
Smokes
Beer (for afterwards … as alcohol and spanners never mix)

You don’t need all of these spares depending on what is wrong, but this is a good guideline of what to have ready just in case.

Ok that should whet your appetite. But you are asking what I do if it doesn’t work. There are a few simple things that can be done to investigate the cause of your blinking light. I will go through them one at a time in order. The system at first can seem complicated and confusing but it isn’t and to be anyone who is careful and logical can get to grips with it and potentially save them a lot of money by avoiding sending their beloved truck to the garage.

Now all of this is much easier with a friend as you do need to be under the truck ideally, but have to be able to push the button on the dash. Unless you have Stretch Armstrong (go on Google that name and remind yourself) arms that is difficult so having a buddy/missus/son/daughter around will help. They aren’t going to get messy. They are just going to sit in the passenger seat pushing the dash button. I say passenger seat as you have to have the engine running and you are going to be underneath. That would be bad if the truck was to start moving so to avoid them hitting things they aren’t meant to belt them into the passenger seat.

First off you have to make sure the rear actuator is working. Get underneath as near to the transfer case as possible. Get your buddy to push the button. You should hear a loud definitive clunk. This is the transfer case engaging to the gearbox. No clunk and you have your initial issue. Check the wiring and vacuum pipes going to the transfer case. I am not sure exactly on layout of the Trooper system, but the Frontera Series B uses a very similar system (the same in fact as Vauxhall stole it from Isuzu) and I found a few wires and a single vacuum pipe. The vacuum pipe goes from the transfer box to the gearbox. Your looking for broken wires and split hoses. If the hoses are looking dodgy then replace like for like and clean. Once your happy try again and hopefully you should hear the clunk.

Ok the dash light is still flashing. The transfer case has a switch in it that tells the 4wd ECU the rear actuator is in position. This can stick and the terminals get grubby. From under the truck look up beside the gearbox and you should see something like this:



The part marked switch is the one your looking for. The plugs connect it to the 4wd loom. First thing is to unplug the switch and clean the terminals. They fill with gack and lose connectivity. You can get to them from underneath, but it is easier to go from the top. Remove the gearstick gaiter and you should see them. Get your multimeter out and put it across the switch terminals on “continuity”. You should have no continuity when in 2wd. Push the dash button, and you should now have positive continuity. If this isn’t changing look to replacing the switch. Also check the feed to the switch. You should have 12v going to it with the button pushed.

Ok so the rear actuator is clunking away happily. The switch terminals are clean. The switch is changing continuity, but the dash light is still flashing. Moving forward to the front axle.

On the axle is your two VSV’s and the front actuator (as pictured above). Why Isuzu put the VSV’s there I don’t know. The clever boys at Vauxhall took one look at that and promptly moved them up into the engine bay and attached them to the bulkhead. Down there they catch all the mud and crud, and can get knocked about a bit. I personally would be very tempted to move them to the same place as the Frontera B. Initially get your buddy to push the button and listen at the front actuator. Does it clunk. If not there is an issue with either the VSV’s or the actuator itself. If it does clunk and the light is still flashing, then it’s the switch on the actuator.

No clunk so lets do one thing at a time in turn. The VSV’s receive a vacuum from elsewhere in the truck. It’s a single feed to both of them. In 2wd they flow the vacuum one way into the actuator. When the button is pressed they energise and change the flow of vacuum through them reversing the feed to the actuator making the piston inside it move and engage the nearside drive shaft. First off unplug the VSV’s and get your multimeter out. You shouldn’t have any power going to them in 2wd. You should have 12v going to them with the button pushed. No power and you have a wiring issue. Start tracing. Ok you have power going to them but nothing is happening. Pull the two vacuum hoses off the front actuator. Mark each on so you know which one goes to which port. The hoses are in this picture in blue



You should feel a vacuum in one hose and not the other. Push the dash button and the vacuum should swap between the two hoses. Push it again and the vacuum should change once more. If it doesn’t or you don’t have a vacuum at all you need to start by replacing all the vacuum hoses to and from the VSV’s. PLEASE do this one at a time. Don’t pull them all off and then sit there with no clue as to how they go. It has been done many times and takes ages to figure it out again. Still no vacuum then the solenoids need looking at.

The Solenoids:



From the above picture you should see they should unbolt from the axle (unless the bolts are rusted solid). They each have three hoses attached to them and the electrical plug. Mark each hose so you know where they go for later when you put it back on. Give the little blighter a shake and you should hear it rattle. If it doesn’t then they are jammed and either need taking apart and cleaning or replacing. Remember replacements are found on any SOTF Trooper, Vauxhall Monterey’s, and all Series B Vauxhall Frontera’s.  I would personally go for the Frontera ones as they are more likely to be in better condition as they are up in the engine bay out of the way of the crud. To test the solenoids just connect a 12 volt feed to the solenoid terminals and you should hear it click. No click its knackered or dirty. Do this for each solenoid. Once your sure the solenoids are fine and they are getting a 12v charge when the button is pushed put them back.

Now you should be at the stage where the rear actuator is clunking, the rear actuator switch is getting a feed and passing it back to the 4wd ECU. The fronts VSV’s are getting a charge and vacuum, and swapping the vacuum feed to the front actuator as you push the button, but the light is still flashing. We need to turn to the front actuator. It has two vacuum feeds as pictured above and a switch like the rear actuator. You should now be getting a vacuum to it from one of the vacuum hoses and when pushing the button the vacuum should swap to the other. You can feel this by putting your thumb over the ends of the pipe. If when they aren’t connected to the actuator you cannot hear it clunk then the actuator itself is goosed. These are a sealed unit and to be honest I haven’t had a chance to pull one apart to see if it can be repaired. Your much better off replacing it with another off a Trooper, Monterey, or Frontera series B. If you can hear it clunk then it is working fine and the switch is the next thing to look at. The actuator is quite simple to be honest. The vacuum sucks a piston inside the unit (it is in the round bit to the left). Attached to this is a shaft that has a fork attached. That fork is moved left and right as the vacuum changes and in turn moves a cog on the axle connecting the two halves of the nearside driveshaft. Some pictures to help explain.

Front actuator:



The four mounting bolts hold it on. When removed it looks like this from behind (showing the fork):



The cog in the drive shaft that is moved by the front actuator:



When removing this you will get a face full of gear oil, so take care. Also it may need encouragement to take off as there are two locating pins that also hold it on. Sometimes the piston seizes in place as there isn’t any oil in the housing causing the cog and fork to move. Once you have removed the actuator (after removing the vacuum pipes and disconnecting the switch) try to move the fork by hand and see if the cog on the drive shaft also slides. If they are free then plug the two vacuum hoses back in and push the button. It should slide back and forth each time the button is pushed. If it doesn’t then the seal on the piston is gone and the front actuator needs replacing. If it does move back and forth then replace it (making sure the fork lines up with the groove on the drive shaft cog). It may pay you to use a bead of gasket sealant here to prevent leaking. You also need to fill the housing with the gear oil. The filler for the housing is at the back of the housing and is a normal sump plug akin to the one on the front of the front differential. Just keep on putting oil in there until it starts to dribble out of the fill hole.

Ok now you should have the rear actuator and rear switch doing its thing. The front VSV’s should be clicking and reversing the vacuum, and the front actuator clunking side to side … but your still only getting a flashing light. The last thing in the pot is the front actuator switch. This can be taken off using the ring part of the 24mm spanner. The jaws of the spanner are too big to fit onto it, so feed the wires for the switch through the ring and take it off that way. Check the feed to the switch with the button pushed and you should be getting 12v. Once the switch has been removed (taking care not to lose the copper washer and if you do it’s the Vauxhall sump plug washer to replace). The end of the switch has a ball in. Putting a multimeter across the switch terminal you should get continuity. Push the ball in and the continuity should be broken. If it doesn’t work try cleaning it but if no joy its replacement time. The way it works is the ball rests on the shaft of the actuator and this pushes the ball in. When the shaft moves to engage the 4wd there is a recess in the shaft that allows the ball to spring out and make continuity sending the signal to the 4wd ECU. The copper washer is essential here as without it the ball is pushed in all the time and the 4wd ECU never receives the signal and thinks the actuator hasn’t moved. Now hopefully after replacing everything back on again the button can be pressed and the light stays constant. If not your looking at a wiring issue somewhere in the loom and/or the 4wd ECU is goosed as well. Usually wiring is the problem here and you can limit where to start tracing depending on which stage the system stops working.

Quick and easy things to look for

Now this tutorial is quite detailed and starts from the beginning to the end. There are a few quick and easy things to do without having to pull it all apart. The most common causes of the failure is leaking vacuum. So obviously replacing all the vacuum hoses would be the answer here. Vacuum hose is cheap and cheerful, and you will need about 6 metres to replace everything.  The VSV’s commonly get gunked up and seized so cleaning/replacing these is a good thing to try. The plugs for the actuator switches get covered in oil and lose connection so cleaning these up will do no harm. If the front actuator housing is low on oil then the front drive shaft cog sticks and doesn’t engage, so topping this up can help on the outset.

Take Care

Now as you may have noticed you have to be rolling around under the truck with the engine running. Make sure it is out of gear or in “Park”. The handbrake is on, and the wheels are chocked with some bricks or the like. Never be under the car when the engine is being started and watch out for moving parts. Once you have tried the system, turn the engine off before doing and spanner work. Make sure you use appropriate safety wear such as safety glasses, and gloves.  Above all use your noggin!

While I have tried to put everything in I can think of I might of accidently missed something out which I will be more than happy to add later once its pointed out. I also will not be held responsible for any damage done to your truck if you use this tutorial to fix your vehicle. This is merely a guideline and if you have any doubts as to your ability then please feel free to print it off and seek further help. If unsure then do the sensible thing and ask the question. It is what the forum is all about after all. It is better to know what to do rather than guessing and potentially breaking something expensive.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Google
Sponsor





PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 14:06    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


Back to top
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 18:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok a coulpe of amendments:

1) The rear actuator is electric only. If it cannot be heard moving on the outset then I would suggest the wiring to it has been broken, or its knackered in some way shape or form. It would pay to trace the wiring and see if your feed to it is damaged in any way. failing that you should be able to get it moving with a direct feed from the battery. If it has no life in it what-so-ever you should think about replacing it.

2) The axle VSV's may or may not have 12 volts to them when in 2wd. Its best to test the feed to them by pressing the button and then pressing it again and seeing if the 12v feed switches on or off again.

If an admin could make these changes to the write up I would be grateful, as it seems I cannot edit this post.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
cicsware
*


Joined: 28 Jan 2008
Posts: 24
Location: GLASGOW

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 21:50    Post subject: Well done! Reply with quote

Just a quick post to say thanks and also well done to Rhanagar for his detailed post on the 4x4 system.To me this exemplifies exactly what this forum is all about, someone taking the time to share thier knowledge and in a very clear way using simple wording and photos for added confirmation.I logged on for some ideas about what might be wrong with my own system and found this post very helpfull as i`m sure many more people will also. Thanks again Rhanagar,and keep it up mate! Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 22:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

No probs buddy. It will save me lots of time from trying to explain it in future to people. I can just link their question to this thread Very Happy

Oh and many thanks to Red Robbo for pointing out the couple of mistakes in the initial write up, hence the amendments. Best to keep these things as accurate as possible.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Wirdy
*****


Joined: 01 May 2008
Posts: 695
Location: Glenrothes, Fife

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 22:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks.  And if there was a Trooper wiki this would surely make it on there.  Well done  Smile
_________________
2001 3.0 DT LWB Duty - Dragon Green Metallic.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 23:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have just realised another thing to look out for. On the front crossmember there is a large cannister with a vacuum pipe coming out of it. It started life about 7-8" long and 3" round and shiney black. By now its probably rusty brown. This is a vacuum accumulator. Its stores a vacuum inside of it in case of a loss of vacuum. They can after while go porous and leak. Along with the vacuum hose going to it. When you replace the other pipes its worth replacing this one as well. If you find your 4wd is slow to engage and disengage you either have a slow leak or the accumulator is leaking. A way of testing this is to get a bycycle pump and connect it to a short length of hose to the accumulator. Submerge the accumulator in a bucket of water and give it a few pumps. Any holes will be apparent as bubbles will form. Time to replace.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 0:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its also worth noting that the VSV's are common to all models of Trooper and Monterey's. The Vauxhall Monterey is a badged Trooper so entirley compatible depndant on compatible year and 4wd type (lever/push button). Also the front actuator, actuator switches, and VSV's are also found on the Vauxhall Frontera B Series. I know the Vauxhall Frontera Hubs are compatible as well (manual and auto lock) and the Frontera B also has the domed autolock hubs found on the SOTF Trooper. I will investigate the 4wd ECU on the Frontera B and see whether its the same as the Trooper.

To identify the Series B Frontera for spares the rear side windows do not lap over onto the roof and the colour coded bumpers. The very rear side windows on the Frontera Series A lap onto the roof as shown in the second photo.

Series B:



Series A:



Manual Hubs:



Autolock Hubs:



SOTF autolock hubs:



Hope this is of use.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Wilky
*****


Joined: 19 Oct 2010
Posts: 599
Location: West Yorkshire

PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hubs in the third pic, are they not fixed hubs? just a splined cap.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wilky wrote:
The hubs in the third pic, are they not fixed hubs? just a splined cap.


They may or may not be ... this was just an exercise in identification. If someone could confirm that would be grand.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Red Robbo
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 17 Feb 2008
Posts: 4129
Location: Where ever I happen to be in my imagination but mainly Far East Sussex

PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Neal. Mk IV type (pic 3) with the domed cap are indeed fixed hubs......

Cheers
            Ted
_________________
Khotso...........
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers buddy Wink I think this is really coming together now Very Happy

Just need to get a dead gearbox and transfer case to play with and pull it apart to see how it works and write that up. I should be getting a knackered front actuator and I will pull that one apart to see the gubbins and see if they can be reconditioned as well.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Wilky
*****


Joined: 19 Oct 2010
Posts: 599
Location: West Yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 21:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is an extremely good, informative and well written article, I now have a question or two, I like simple things, and the SOTF seems a bit over complicated to me, so, are all the electrics, VSV's and vac pipes, actuator etc just to move that fork from side to side. If so, then when it moves to one side it engages the front drive shafts and when moved back it disengages, seems simple enough.

If this is so, would it be feasible to modify the system to remove all the gubbins, if the actuator was removed and a plate fabricated to hold the fork in the engaged position, the drive shafts would be permanently locked in drive, and if manual FWH's were fitted, the drive to the front wheels could be simply selected by "Lock" and deselected by "Free" the same as other open diff, selectable 4WD's, then the vac system can be removed.

Also, and this is related to my 98 3.1, stick not button, when in 2WD, is the front prop driven, as the actuator fork will be disengaged, I know I can check this with the front end jacked, but thought I'd ask, as if it isn't driven, then there's no reason I can't do the above........................I think.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 23:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

First off sorry for the delay in getting back to you  Embarassed

Replacing the fixed hubs with manually locking hubs would indeed allow you to overcome the permanent locking of the front nearside drive shaft, however you will run into problems. The switch on the front actuator is needed to tell the 4wd ECU which position its in. If its in the wrong position for the type of drive its meant to be in it will cause the dash light to flash until recified. You could in theory get around this by putting a switch on the dash and tripping it depending on the mode and tricking the 4wd ECU into thinking its in the right position. Manually locking hubs would also allow you select 4WL as well while still actually being in 2wd (as the front hubs aren't engaged) which is useful when towing and pulling and you need the extra grunt but are on dry roads (I do this when reversing my caravan up over curbs and up inclines as I have manual hubs on my Mk.I). Obviously you cannot do this with the normal fixed hubs or auto hubs as you will get wind up in the 4wd system pretty quick and start doing serious damage to the drive train (mainly cv joints, drive shafts, front diff, and possibly transfer box)

My only theory is that the SOTF system while at first can seem a bit fragile actually isn't, once everything has been gone over and serviced it will last for years. Its deemed one of the better 4wd systems out there due to its operator ease of use.

As an aside I do know people who have the old non-SOTF system (like my Mk.I) where everything is mechanical. They keep the front hubs locked all the time and if they need 4wd they slow down and throw the lever. When they are done they just slow down again and throw the lever back again to disengage the transfer box. This does of course mean the front diff and transfer box gubbins are always rtuning, can lead to premature CV joint wear, and increased fuel comsumption (due to the drag of the front diff, and front prop being turned all the time), but to be honest in the long run they have had no issues at all.

This is of course theory and unless tried I cannot guarantee it would work.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
markymoan
*******


Joined: 25 Jun 2005
Posts: 16267
Location: Naughty Step

PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 23:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can just replace the fixed hubs with manual locking ones with no ill effect, infact I want to replace mine to save the cv joints as its lifted a touch.
Twister did his years ago its a half hour job and my now 13yr old lad will do mine  Smile
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger
Rhanagar
Lifetime member
Lifetime member


Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 0:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the main question was about the permanently locked front nearside drivshaft. As said I think the only main issue is the position switch.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™ Forum Index -> Gearbox / transmission / 4WD All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Goto page : 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next
Page 1 of 10

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


All contents © Hobson's Choice IT Solutions Ltd 1997 on
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group