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Replacing the heater matrix

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jacksdad1963
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Joined: 26 Jul 2011
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Location: Oldham, Lancs

PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:01    Post subject: Replacing the heater matrix Reply with quote

Well I finally got round to replacing the heater matrix, I had too now its getting cold!
What a job, you need to remove the complete dashboard and centre console, nothing particularly difficult, just fiddly and very time consuming Crying or Very sad
First, disconnect the batteries and the heater hoses from the matrix pipes poking out of the firewall.
You start by removing the glovebox, then the steel frame behind it: this is where the cabin filters live, and mine were filthy, never been replaced by the look of them!
Then, its basically a matter of working your way round the entire dash, removing all the nuts and bolts, all of which are M6 10mm spanner size, or philips head screws....no special tools needed here!
It really is just a matter of undoing the fasteners until it comes apart: sounds obvious but thats all there is to it Very Happy
Disconnect all the switches, and the radio wires, the instument housing, the ABS sensor, and the ignition block comes off with 2 nuts, again really easy. You need to unclip the 3 heater control cables, 2 on the heater box and one on the heat control near the blower motor.
Disconnect the wiring looms either side of the footwells, and the airbag wire, think there's one or two wires as well, but not many at all, the top of the dash has only 1 bolt either side, under the airvents that just pull out, and a nut in the centre.
Lift the complete dash up and over the steering wheel, done!
The heater box is again simplicity to remove, just remove a few more 10mm nuts and the whole block slides out, you can now take it indoors and get warm!
You then split the housing by undoing yet more screws, once again its very straight forward and nothing technical at all.
Then, in true Haynes fashion, assembly is the reverse of all the above! Very Happy
I took 2 half days as it got dark before I could finish, but if you have got access to a garage and lights etc. you can do it in a full day.
There is a geezer on eebuygum selling new copper cored matrix for about £70, I should have got one but I'd already spent £40 on a used standard one  Shocked

Here's the troop in bits, looks a lot worse than it is:









Ozzy the Supervisor cat is available at very keen hourly rate.... Laughing
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1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:01    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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DYLAN
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 14:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your a brave man Laughing

For goodness sake put it back together properly because if you upset a 3.0 it will plot revenge in devious ways Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing

Your doing a fine job. Wink
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richard wilkinson
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 15:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

the second pic the cat got that look theys suggest you have done it wrong lol
blimey there must be a short cut to get it out
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jacksdad1963
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Joined: 26 Jul 2011
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Location: Oldham, Lancs

PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 23:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like the song said.....There is no other way! Laughing
I thought that myself, must be an easier way....but no, the whole lot must come out, you need to remove the complete heater box then unscrew it to get the matrix out.
Its done now and nice andn warm, plus I've only got 6 bolts and a couple of screws and nuts spare  Laughing  Laughing
And Ozzy was no help, he just went to sleep on the back seat after a while!
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1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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TrooperDan
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 0:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

FFS just burn it. for love of god just burn it  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing
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jacksdad1963
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Joined: 26 Jul 2011
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Location: Oldham, Lancs

PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

No way, I've put too many hours into this,  its too late for me...go on, save yourselves, learn from us foolish 3.0 owners!  Laughing  Laughing

Why do I keep buying cars and bikes that take over my entire life, all my free time, all my dosh........I'm getting on now, should be taking things a bit easier, etc. etc.
So I'm told  Shocked  Laughing
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1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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hillbilly col
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 19:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you have to do same procedure to just replace the fan blower as my matrix is fine but my fan has stopped working (fuses are fine) can't see where the wiring goes into fan to check connectors .. it used to work then only started working after engine was running for a min or so then started taking longer for fan to get going ...now it doesn't spin at all  Confused
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 22:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just done a similar thing to Jacksdad but have replaced the whole unit with one from a trooper equipped with  climate control, I,m sure that if you remove the center unit which either is a dummy or if you have it the air con condenser then the fan unit con be removed. Be careful of the top mounting as it is very tight to get it from behind the tubular cross member. Anyone contemplating adding aircon to a non aircon model may need to also fit the dash from the scarp vehicle as the there is extra wiring incorporated for the sensor on the dash and the motorized control units.

Pete
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jacksdad1963
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 0:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

there's no easier way to get the matrix out, I tried!
That part that looks like a mini TV sat right in the middle of the car is the top of the heater case, all of which needs to come out, in one big lump. You then need to take it apart, it splits in 2 full halves, by removing about 20 screws, to remove the matrix itself.
Its impossible to get at it with the dash in place, 100% posidrive on that!  Crying or Very sad
As I said though, its not technically difficult at all, just lots of screws and a few 10mm nuts! I did it on my own over 2 days, at the roadside, with a nice warm garage to work in I could do another in one day, no problems.
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1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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jacksdad1963
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 0:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

NO EDIT!
The fan motor is on the passenger side, and is dead easy to remove, its fitted on the passenger side, behind the glovebox, you remove box, metal frame behind it, which means removing all the centre console to get at the fixing bolts, then it will come out under the dash....as far as I remember!
Can you get at the top fixing screws without lifting the dash up out of the way?
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1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mornina, I seem to remember that the centre console had to be undone to allow the radio mounting to be taken off to allow access to the screws that held the plastic trim panel around the glove box to be removed along with the clove box. Also I think that the metal frame that the glovebox hinges has to come off. Not a technical job but lots of 10mm nuts and blots and a few screws. While I had all of the heater unit and controls out everything was hoovered out and the pollen filters given a rinse.

Pete
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bigb
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 19:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

just done my matrix,oh my god what a nightmare Shocked .i was at that point that i thought its never going to go back together again now,far too many bits sitting on the back seats and 5 or 600 nuts and bolts all over the floor but it seemed to go back together easier than it came apart.i was probably a good 5 hours at it straight without a break,it looked like it would come out with just the bottom half of the dash removed,but it didnt and had to remove the whole thing,not something i would like to do again lol
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bigb
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 20:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

forgot to add,jacksdad,you said you had 6 bolts and a couple of screws left over? i managed to use all the screws but had 10 bolts spare lol,just waiting for the dash to fall on the wife on the first run haha.
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jacksdad1963
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 22:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Naaah!
Thats the classic sign of A Job Well Done  Shocked
All back together and a few saved bits that will be needed in a future emergency.... Laughing
Its not as bad a job as you thought, though, is it!
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1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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jacksdad1963
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 2:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

New/old pics!







the matrix is behind this bit, you need to lift out the entire plastic housing, then split it in two and remove the actual matrix

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1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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