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How 2 - 2.8 Cam Belt change instructions

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Rhanagar
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Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 22:41    Post subject: How 2 - 2.8 Cam Belt change instructions Reply with quote

The 4JB1 and 4JG2 are either belt or gear driven. There never was a chain driven version, no matter what they tell you.

Belt driven engines have a plastic cam cover, gear driven ones have a metal one. Don’t go by colour as I have found mud is always brown no matter what it is stuck to Wink

Couple of pictures to describe what I mean

Original:



Numbered:



1 ) Crank pulley timing stud
2 ) Engine timing pointer
3 ) Cam pulley locking bolt
4 ) Fuel pump pulley bolt
5 ) Guide pulley
6 ) Tension pulley
7 ) Tension pulley guide bolt (you can see the guide plate that is attached to the tension pulley slotted over this bolt)
8 ) Tensioner
9 ) Spring balance hole.

Timing Kit:



1 ) Guide pulley (note this image shows the pulley back to front as to how it is installed)
2 ) Tension pulley (note the plate with the slot. This slot goes over the tension pulley guide bolt)
3 ) Belt

Procedure (having just done it on my 2.8 which is the same method and parts as the 3.1):

First off I will say I not being held responsible for any damage done to your truck following these instructions. This is just a guide. If you are unsure about anything written here then please do ask questions, but ultimately it is your choice to either attempt it yourself, or seek professional help. I had never done anything like this before so I did the latter and sought assistance. It was just as well I did, as we encountered a problem where the belt wouldn’t tension properly and it was only through the experience of the help I sought we overcame it. If I had been on my own I would of probably panicked and had all sorts of issues trying to resolve it, possibly even damaging something in the process.

Auxiliary belts off and remove the fan and fan cowl. It’s easier to remove the radiator as well as this gives you a whole load of extra room at the front and you don’t run the risk of putting a spanner through it. Also if you are doing the belt you might as well change the water pump at the same time. If you are going to drain the water out for the pump, you might s well remove the radiator. My water pump was working fine but I think it was just starting to weep around the seal as we noticed some water ingress that had found its way onto the pulley’s making them just start to rust.

The crank pulley is held on with four bolts to the crank. There is a big bolt in the middle and four smaller ones arrayed around it. It is the smaller bolts your interested in. A 12mm socket is needed here and with a sharp tug they should undo. Take them out and then the first fun part starts. The crank pulley sits on the crank with a slight interference fit. However after being on there for 60,000 miles and submerged in water and catching loads of crud it can be a sod to remove. Get yourself a standard size hammer (what you would normally use for putting nails in) and a crowbar. Put your crowbar into the outer ‘V’ notch and against the front of the water pump and push. Then get your hammer and strike the side of the pulley left and right. You want to also try to strike it forwards away from the engine. It may take a bit but it will eventually give. Sometimes they just drop straight off. Sometimes you will be swearing for ages at the blasted thing. We found with mine it took about 5 mins of knocking, then a further amount of time for Grandad to rummage around the workshop and dig out his puller and walk over to the truck. Just as he arrived off it came. Once it is off get a wire brush or some sandpaper and clean off the crud from the inner face of the crank and the inside face of the large hole. Now get the crank pulley and hold it up as if it was on the crank. Look at the centre hole. Around that you should see the four bolt holes, and a further (much smaller) hole. This small hole is where the timing stud on the crank pokes through. Now turn the crank pulley in your hands until that small hole is at the top and look at the top of the crank pulley. On the edge of the outer ring (the one that will sit closest to the engine) you will see a tiny mark that lines up with the small hole. This is another TDC mark that can come in very useful when timing the pump. Clean this mark up as well so you can see it better in case it is needed. It will pay you now to clean up the end of the crank. Take care not to damage or knock off the stud.

You should now be looking at the covers. Get a 10mm socket and go around the covers taking out the bolts. The cover comes in two parts. There is a large main section, and a smaller section that covers the fuel pump pulley. Four of these bolts are longer than the rest but it’s obvious which ones they are. You can mark the cover if you want with some Tippex where these longer bolts go through.

Look at the crank end and you should see the four holes for the crank pulley bolts, and a tiny stud. This is the marker for getting the engine to TDC. Just above the crank on the engine is a pointer that you align the crank to. Get a 24mm socket on the end of the crank and turn the engine CLOCKWISE 2 full revolutions and then line up the stud and pointer vertically. The stud on the crank should be at the top. Look at the fuel pump and you should see a hole around the 2 o’clock position. Get an 80mm long M8 bolt and poke it through that hole. It should locate into a thread behind it. If it doesn’t then you haven’t lined up to TDC. Sometimes it may only be a little way out, and you can jiggle the crank to get it to line up perfectly. If it is 180 degrees out (i.e. the hole is at the 8 o’clock position) your engine is 180 degrees out and you need to turn the crank a full turn (360 degrees) clockwise again. The bolt won’t screw fully to the head either. It is only there to stop the pulley turning. Just tighten it finger tight. Once you are happy that the M8 bolt will screw into the thread you are ready for the next stage.

On the front of the camshaft and fuel pump pulley’s there are two metal plate guides. These are there to prevent the belt working off as it turns. The guide plate on the fuel pump can only be fitted in one way. If I had known this I would have marked the guide and pulley so I could line the marks up when assembling. Get a 10mm and 12mm socket, and take the bolts out that hold the guides on. The camshaft pulley guide is 3 off 12mm bolts, and the fuel pump pulley is 4 off 10mm bolts.

Get another 80mm long M8 bolt and about 2 o’clock on the camshaft pulley is another hole that you put the M8 bolt into, and screw into a thread behind it. Put the M8 bolt in. Again it won’t screw fully in like the fuel pump one.

You should now have the crank at TDC with the stud at the top in line with the pointer on the block. The fuel pump pulley locked with an M8 bolt, and the crankshaft pulley locked with an M8 bolt. Both guide plates are off and the scary stage reached.

As mentioned you can mark the belt and the crank, cam, and fuel pump pulleys with a dab of Tipp-Ex (correction fluid) to help you line the new belt up with. We didn’t, but if I was doing it myself I would. Anything helps.

Next stage is the guide and tension pulleys. Before doing anything, take a good look at the belt routing (take a photo if it necessary, or unsure). They are both held on with a single bolt that you need a 17mm socket for. The guide pulley is the upper one. The tension pulley has a plate with a slot in, and the hole in the middle is slotted. The tension pulley is the lower one. Get your 17mm socket and undo the tension pulley. This will relieve the tension in the belt. If you look at the tension pulley from the front you will see that the slot on the plate locates on a bolt. This is a guide to ensure the pulley is placed in the right orientation and slides correctly as it is tensioned. Take this tension pulley right off noting how it was put on. Now remove the guide pulley.

Next is to remove the timing belt itself. Carefully pull it off.

Now for putting the new bits back on. Get your new guide pulley and bolt it onto the block. It should be tightened to 55 Lbs Ft (75Nm). Get the new belt and compare it to the old one. There should be writing on the belt, possibly with some direction arrows. Looking at the belt on the top you should be able to read the writing normally, and if present, the arrows pointing to the right.  If you have marked the old belt then transfer the marks onto the new one. Get your new belt and carefully put it onto the engine. Make sure that the writing is still readable normally, and if you were to turn the engine the arrows move the direction they are pointing. Start at the crank and work around clockwise, making sure you keep it tight. By the time you have gone around any slack in the belt should be between the fuel pump and the crank pulley. If you have marked it then they should also line up. Get the tension pulley and put it on as well but only do up the bolt finger tight. Make sure that the plate notch sits over the guide bolt mentioned earlier.

Now it is time to set the tension. To the right of the tension pulley (the lower one) there should be an ‘L’ shaped piece of metal. It is seemingly held on with two bolts. One is a 12mm head, the other a 10mm head. It also has a curved plate attached to it that looks like it will rest against the tension pulley (mainly because it does when you set the tension). Fully undo and remove the 10mm bolt, and then loosen the 12mm bolt. You should now be able to move that ‘L’ shaped plate, by hand, so it will rest against the tension pulley. Get a spring balance (like they use for weighing fish) and hook it through the small hole, (the very outer right hand one that never had a bolt through). You now need to pull the spring balance downwards. This will then lever the plate against the tension pulley taking up the slack in the belt. The book says that you need to put between 10-12 Kg onto the tension plate. Once you have got that 10-12 Kg onto the tension pulley, tighten the pulley bolt up with your 17mm socket to the required torque (55 Lbs Ft/75 Nm).

Now stand back and carefully inspect everything. You should have a tight belt around the entire system. There should be no slack in the belt at all. The stud and pointer lined up vertically on the crank and engine block. The M8 bolts still in place at 2 o’clock. The pulley bolts nice and tight. Remove the spring balance and put the 10mm bolt back into place on the tension plate, locking it out of the way. Tighten up the 12mm bolt. Remove the two M8 bolts from the cam and fuel pump pulley. Get the 24mm socket onto the crank and turn the engine over two full revolutions and again line up the stud and pointer vertically on the crank and block. Ensuring the crank stud is at the top. Get your M8 bolts and insert them into the threads behind the cam pulley and fuel pump pulley. They should just slide through the holes and locate onto the threads without adjustment. Check the tension of the belt making sure it is tight. There should be no slack at all in the belt. If you do notice any undue slack in it, you need to remove the M8 bolts. Turn the crank over again two full revolutions and line the stud and pointer up. Insert the M8 bolts and re-tension the tension pulley and try again.

Once you are happy with everything it is time to put it all back together.

REMEMBER TO TAKE OUT THE M8 BOLTS.

REMEMBER TO PUT BOTH BOLTS BACK IN TIGHT INTO THE TENSION PLATE.

Order of assembly:

Remove M8 bolts
Tighten tension plate bolts.
Fit guide plates.
Fit large Cam cover.
Fit small Cam cover.
Fit crank pulley.
Fit and connect lower radiator hose (if removed).
Fit fan and fan cowl.
Fit and connect upper radiator hose (if removed).
Fit and tighten alternator belt.
Fit and tighten power steering belt.
Fill with fresh new coolant (50/50 mix of the blue stuff) and let her get to temperature to bleed out any air. Top up if necessary.

Now double check everything is nice and tight. Make sure you haven’t got anything left over. With your two M8 locking bolts and spring balance in hand start her up. If she is running then pat yourself on the back and tidy up and have a beer. If not the timing is out and you will have to start again.

A couple of things you can do before pulling everything apart.

Turn the engine clockwise until the mark on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer on the engine block. Now remove the small cover for the fuel pump and see if you can insert the M8 bolt. Remember if it isn’t at 2 o’clock you will have to do a further 360 degree turn of the crank to line it up. You don’t have to remove the guide plate for this. If that is ok, you are probably looking at a loose belt. Unfortunately you will have to remove the entire front cover. This obviously means taking the fan and crank pulley off. Should be easier to remove the crank pulley now you have cleaned it all off. Again you will have to make sure it is at TDC and you can insert the M8 bolts. You only have to remove the guide plate on the cam to insert the bolt into that pulley. Check the tension of the belt, but also check the marks on the belt line up with the marks on the pulley’s you made. You may have to just go through the procedure of tensioning it again to get her to run. Hopefully it hasn’t jumped a tooth but I doubt it from what I have been told.

Hope this helps.

Rhanagar
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1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 22:41    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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greenwolverine
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rhanagar for clear instructions.
I intend to do this in the next month or two since I am on 200k.
But I want to replace the front crank seal as well as the camshaft seal and seal carrier o-ring while I am at it.

There are some very good threads on the front crank seal on clubisuzu, with a nifty tool to make.
http://www.clubisuzu.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2650&start=20
I haven't found anyone to walk me through the camshaft seal process.
Would you have any words of wisdom?
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silvio
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 5:06    Post subject: Re: How 2 - 2.8 Cam Belt change instructions Reply with quote

Thank you for this excellent explanation of how to replace the timing belt.

But I'm here with a doubt !


Rhanagar wrote:
The book says that you need to put between 10-12 Kg onto the tension plate. Once you have got that 10-12 Kg onto the tension pulley, tighten the pulley bolt up with your 17 mm socket to the required torque (55 Lbs Ft/75 Nm).



I have read elsewhere that the belt tension of the timing belt is 9kg.
For example, what is referred Autodata .

My doubt is: what is the exact tension-kg  of the timing belt ?
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Rhanagar
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Original genuine Isuzu workshop manual states 10-12 Kg ... Well it did for the 2.8.
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1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

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Grandad
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 22:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

3.1 td is 9kg  2.8 is 10-12kg this is the only difference between the two cambelts  the belts and pulleys are all the same
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Rhanagar
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 23:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Grandad Wink
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1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

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Peej
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most informative, well done.  headbang
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silvio
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rhanagar wrote:
Original genuine Isuzu workshop manual states 10-12 Kg ... Well it did for the 2.8.


Thank you !



I've disassembled the radiator, etc., to have easy access to belts, water pump and timing belt.

My alternator belt was too loose, or rather, was badly tensioned!

Before arriving at the timing belt, I need to remove the poly crankshaft, and here,  I am with a doubt: At a special procedure to loosen the four screws of poly crankshaft ?

It takes some special tools to hold and remove the crankshaft poly ?



Thank  for  the help they  give me: Thank you.
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silvio
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 2:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

My poly crankshaft :

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Rhanagar
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just get a socket onto each of them and give it a shrp pull. They should crack off easily. If the crank does turn while doing this you can always get a socket on the centrl bolt to line the markers up again.
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1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

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silvio
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 14:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rhanagar wrote:
Just get a socket onto each of them and give it a shrp pull. They should crack off easily. If the crank does turn while doing this you can always get a socket on the centrl bolt to line the markers up again.



Thank you for your help.

Greetings.
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silvio
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 18:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took this job and everything went well !

I appreciate this topic and this excellent explanation, thank you !

I leave here a link to several videos of this "adventure".

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/user/IsuzuOpelMonterey?feature=mhee[/youtube]
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Dirksoft
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 16:32    Post subject: Thanks for the info.... Reply with quote

Great topic....much help with my repair...however the original reason for my stripdown was the water pump...can you tell me what torque settings if any are required for the water pump bolts..... Cool  Cool  Cool  Cool
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Dirksoft
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 16:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grandad wrote:
3.1 td is 9kg  2.8 is 10-12kg this is the only difference between the two cambelts  the belts and pulleys are all the same

Rhanagar, please could I ask you respectfully to amend the text in the original post...because I nearly missed this info and others with the 3.1 version could miss it also!!!!

Thanks in anticipation
Dirk
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d12
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 21:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

as always nice one rhanagar Very Happy
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