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midcornwallchas *
Joined: 24 May 2012 Posts: 35 Location: Cornwall
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Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 13:13 Post subject: |
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Very helpfull information here, made changing my belt easier! Many thanks. One tip I've used is to pull the spring balance down with a cable to to the correct tension, like having an extra pair of hands, fixed it to the steering arm etc, just helped make it simple! |
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Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 13:13 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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kennymac Lifetime member
Joined: 13 May 2006 Posts: 507 Location: Argyll, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 14:53 Post subject: Re: How 2 - 2.8 Cam Belt change instructions |
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Rhanagar wrote: |
The 4JB1 and 4JG2 are either belt or gear driven. There never was a chain driven version, no matter what they tell you.
Belt driven engines have a plastic cam cover, gear driven ones have a metal one. Don’t go by colour as I have found mud is always brown no matter what it is stuck to
Rhanagar |
Thanks fer this Rhanagar, was startin tae feel exceptionally dim as couldn't find a ref to cam belt change in the manual (1998) only timing gears. _________________ If all else fails just nod, smile and say "Yes Dear"
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d12 Lifetime member
Joined: 15 Apr 2009 Posts: 1214 Location: dublin ireland
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Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 19:07 Post subject: |
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another good tip ,get a small cushion to cover bonnet catch ,or remove it as its been stuck into my chest for last 2 days as ive been leaning into engine doin this belt _________________ 96 3.1 bighorn lwb ,widetrack |
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Rhanagar Lifetime member
Joined: 12 Jan 2010 Posts: 4861 Location: Preston, Lancs.
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 7:40 Post subject: |
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I took the front grill and radiator out to do mine. Much easier to get to things .. especially with 7" of lift. Though that doesn't help if you have aircon as the condenser coil then gets in the way and you don't want to be removing that AT ALL _________________ 1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition
Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS
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JACUB **
Joined: 06 Apr 2009 Posts: 55 Location: Notts / Derby border UK
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Posted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 22:06 Post subject: |
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great stuff rhanger, this is missing from the downloaded manual I have. muchly apprecited _________________ 1993 SWB 3.1 Trooper Duty |
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South Coast Classics **
Joined: 11 Jan 2014 Posts: 50 Location: West Bay, Dorset.
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 12:01 Post subject: |
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Just done my timing belt (3.1 Citation) using this guide... BRILLIANT! Thank you for posting this..one of the best write ups I have ever followed and only had to search else where once for the water pump torque figures. |
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pugbug ****
Joined: 24 May 2012 Posts: 263 Location: Leicester
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 18:02 Post subject: |
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I'm giving this a shot this coming week
Thanks for the guide!
Is it necessary to replace the pulleys? They're not cheap! |
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Rhanagar Lifetime member
Joined: 12 Jan 2010 Posts: 4861 Location: Preston, Lancs.
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 15:43 Post subject: |
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I would always replace the pulleys. If they seize then you will curse yourself as you start looking at expensive engine repair work. I got a full kit (belt and 2 off pulleys) for around £60. _________________ 1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition
Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS
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d12 Lifetime member
Joined: 15 Apr 2009 Posts: 1214 Location: dublin ireland
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 23:17 Post subject: |
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pugbug wrote: |
I'm giving this a shot this coming week
Thanks for the guide!
Is it necessary to replace the pulleys? They're not cheap! |
. There cheaper than a new engine ! ,if you get a good kit the should come with it ,I got a gates one €100 _________________ 96 3.1 bighorn lwb ,widetrack |
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Aragorn ***
Joined: 23 Aug 2014 Posts: 203 Location: Fife
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Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 17:16 Post subject: |
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Just done this on my 3.1 and i'm in the process of putting it all back together.
I found that when tensioning the belt i had to remove the locking bolts from the cam and diesel pump. If i didnt, then i'd tension it and spin the engine over and there would be a fairly large amount of slack left in the belt, because the tensioner would only pull up the slack between the IP and crank, and when the belts fitted theres also small amounts of slack between the crank and cam, and cam and IP. With the pins out, the tensioner is able to rotate the IP and cam pulleys very slightly, allowing the slack to be taken up.
Once tensioned with the pins out, i can spin the engine over a few times and everything stays looking taut, and the bolts and crank marker all still line up. |
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Lady Jennifer Newbie
Joined: 20 Jul 2013 Posts: 7 Location: Brighton
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Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 20:25 Post subject: |
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Fantastic instructions Rhanagar,
Good enough to convince me I could do it myself.
In the next week or two.
'Tis such a shame I've already arranged to play "oily rag" to a "qualified person"......... |
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renejh2 Newbie
Joined: 28 Oct 2014 Posts: 5 Location: VIC, Australia
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 14:07 Post subject: |
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Thanks for the excellent and clear instructions Rhanagar.
I'm feeling brave now. I'll do this in the next 3 monthns or so as my Trooper is about to come up to 150K Kms.
I'll keep in mind to replace the water pump too I guess. |
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Glider Rider Newbie
Joined: 14 Oct 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Farnham, Surrey
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Posted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:13 Post subject: |
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Thanks Rhanagar! Your description and photos made the whole job really straightforward.
A few points from the job I did which may help others:
[list|=1]Loosen the four crankshaft pulley bolts whilst the belts are still tight, to get extra resistance aginst the crank rotating.
If you are struggling to get enough slack on the alternator belt as the alternator fouls on a pipe elbow, just leave it until you take the waterpump pulley off, then the belt and pulley come off together.
I replaced the water pump at the same time as doing the belt as it was starting to leak. The old pump had studs and nuts to hold the pulley on, but there were only tapped holes (presumably for bolts) on the new one. I was able to reuse the studs by putting the waterpump pulley boss in a vice, then locking two of the nuts together on the stud. By winding on the bottom nut, the studs came out. I put them in the new boss with Loctite 'Nutlock' as I didn't have 'Studlock'.
Not having any weights of known mass around to apply the 9KG to the tensioner arm , I used a five litre plastic container, a 6pint (3.4 litres) milk bottle and a 500ml water bottle all filled to the brim with water and hanging on a length of paracord. The bottles were stood on a cardboard box, the cord was threaded through the, arm, the handles of the two larger ones and tied to form a loop, with the smaller bottle pushed through the loop in the cord. The weight of the bottles and the filling to the brim made up some way for the 100ml shortfall. Once the box was removed, the combined weight was hanging on the arm.
[/list] |
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Glider Rider Newbie
Joined: 14 Oct 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Farnham, Surrey
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Posted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:32 Post subject: |
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SouthCoastClassics, What are the waterpump bolt torque settings? I never did find them, and had to do it by feel. |
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Rhanagar Lifetime member
Joined: 12 Jan 2010 Posts: 4861 Location: Preston, Lancs.
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Posted: Sun May 31, 2015 22:15 Post subject: |
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Water pump bolt torque settings are:
20 Nm
14 lb ft _________________ 1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition
Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS
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