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How 2 - 2.8 Cam Belt change instructions

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midcornwallchas
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Joined: 24 May 2012
Posts: 35
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 13:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very helpfull information here, made changing my belt easier! Many thanks. One tip I've used is to pull the spring balance down with a cable to to the correct tension, like having an extra pair of hands, fixed it to the steering arm etc, just helped make it simple!
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kennymac
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Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 507
Location: Argyll, Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 14:53    Post subject: Re: How 2 - 2.8 Cam Belt change instructions Reply with quote

Rhanagar wrote:
The 4JB1 and 4JG2 are either belt or gear driven. There never was a chain driven version, no matter what they tell you.

Belt driven engines have a plastic cam cover, gear driven ones have a metal one. Don’t go by colour as I have found mud is always brown no matter what it is stuck to Wink

Rhanagar


Thanks fer this Rhanagar, was startin tae feel exceptionally dim as couldn't find a ref to cam belt change in the manual (1998) only timing gears. Embarassed  Laughing  Embarassed  Laughing
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d12
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Joined: 15 Apr 2009
Posts: 1214
Location: dublin ireland

PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 19:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

another good tip ,get a small cushion to cover bonnet catch ,or remove it as its been stuck into my chest for last 2 days as ive been leaning into engine doin this belt  Laughing
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Rhanagar
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Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 7:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the front grill and radiator out to do mine. Much easier to get to things .. especially with 7" of lift. Though that doesn't help if you have aircon as the condenser coil then gets in the way and you don't want to be removing that AT ALL Very Happy
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1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

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JACUB
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Joined: 06 Apr 2009
Posts: 55
Location: Notts / Derby border UK

PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 22:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

great stuff rhanger, this is missing from the downloaded manual I have. muchly apprecited  Very Happy
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South Coast Classics
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Joined: 11 Jan 2014
Posts: 50
Location: West Bay, Dorset.

PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 12:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just done my timing belt (3.1 Citation) using this guide... BRILLIANT! Thank you for posting this..one of the best write ups I have ever followed and only had to search else where once for the water pump torque figures.
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pugbug
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Joined: 24 May 2012
Posts: 263
Location: Leicester

PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 18:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm giving this a shot this coming week

Thanks for the guide!

Is it necessary to replace the pulleys? They're not cheap!
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Rhanagar
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Joined: 12 Jan 2010
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Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 15:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would always replace the pulleys. If they seize then you will curse yourself as you start looking at expensive engine repair work. I got a full kit (belt and 2 off pulleys) for around £60.
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1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

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d12
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Joined: 15 Apr 2009
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Location: dublin ireland

PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 23:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

pugbug wrote:
I'm giving this a shot this coming week

Thanks for the guide!

Is it necessary to replace the pulleys? They're not cheap!
. There cheaper than a new engine ! ,if you get a good kit the should come with it ,I got a gates one €100
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Aragorn
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Joined: 23 Aug 2014
Posts: 203
Location: Fife

PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 17:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just done this on my 3.1 and i'm in the process of putting it all back together.

I found that when tensioning the belt i had to remove the locking bolts from the cam and diesel pump. If i didnt, then i'd tension it and spin the engine over and there would be a fairly large amount of slack left in the belt, because the tensioner would only pull up the slack between the IP and crank, and when the belts fitted theres also small amounts of slack between the crank and cam, and cam and IP. With the pins out, the tensioner is able to rotate the IP and cam pulleys very slightly, allowing the slack to be taken up.

Once tensioned with the pins out, i can spin the engine over a few times and everything stays looking taut, and the bolts and crank marker all still line up.
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Lady Jennifer
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Joined: 20 Jul 2013
Posts: 7
Location: Brighton

PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 20:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic instructions Rhanagar,
Good enough to convince me I could do it myself.

In the next week or two.

'Tis such a shame I've already arranged to play "oily rag" to a "qualified person".........  Razz
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renejh2
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Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 5
Location: VIC, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 14:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the excellent and clear instructions Rhanagar.

I'm feeling brave now. I'll do this in the next 3 monthns or so as my Trooper is about to come up to 150K Kms.

I'll keep in mind to replace the water pump too I guess.
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Glider Rider
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Joined: 14 Oct 2008
Posts: 5
Location: Farnham, Surrey

PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rhanagar!  Your description and photos made the whole job really straightforward.

A few points from the job I did which may help others:

[list|=1]Loosen the four crankshaft pulley bolts whilst the belts are still tight, to get extra resistance aginst the crank rotating.
If you are struggling to get enough slack on the alternator belt as the alternator fouls on a pipe elbow, just leave it until you take the waterpump pulley off, then the belt and pulley come off together.
I replaced the water pump at the same time as doing the belt as it was starting to leak.  The old pump had studs and nuts to hold the pulley on, but there were only tapped holes (presumably for bolts) on the new one.  I was able to reuse the studs by putting the waterpump pulley boss in a vice, then locking two of the nuts together on the stud.  By winding on the bottom nut, the studs came out.  I put them in the new boss with Loctite 'Nutlock' as I didn't have 'Studlock'.
Not having any weights of known mass around to apply the 9KG to the tensioner arm , I used a five litre plastic container, a 6pint (3.4 litres) milk bottle and a 500ml water bottle all filled to the brim with water and hanging on a length of paracord.  The bottles were stood on a cardboard box, the cord was threaded through the, arm, the handles of the two larger ones and tied to form a loop, with the smaller bottle pushed through the loop in the cord.  The weight of the bottles and the filling to the brim made up some way for the 100ml shortfall.  Once the box was removed, the combined weight was hanging on the arm.

[/list]
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Glider Rider
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Joined: 14 Oct 2008
Posts: 5
Location: Farnham, Surrey

PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

SouthCoastClassics, What are the waterpump bolt torque settings?  I never did find them, and had to do it by feel.
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Rhanagar
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Joined: 12 Jan 2010
Posts: 4861
Location: Preston, Lancs.

PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 22:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Water pump bolt torque settings are:
20 Nm
14 lb ft
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

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