Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

bigjoe · * Joined: 18 Dec 2005 Posts: 13 Location: Alston, Cumbria

HI, need some help, have recently aquired a 3.0 DT trooper. It was all fine when i got it apart from a jiggered glow plug and a dud battery. But yesterday i took it out for a spin and it was spluttering all the time.

It gets better the further you go and stops when it is fully warmed through.

Seems to go along nicely until you put your foot downthen starts acting up, any thoughts or help appreciated.

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Chris B · Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 13:09 Post subject:

Hi Bigjoe,

what sort of mileage has yours covered? Are you getting loads of smoke (black/blue/white)?

cheers

Chris (also got a duff 3.0dt) beesley
_________________
Isuzu Rodeo Denver Max LE | 265/65R18 BF Goodrich AT LTM No.60

bigjoe · * Joined: 18 Dec 2005 Posts: 13 Location: Alston, Cumbria

it has got 110000, all service history up to ninety something.

Went out in it this morning, no smoke seen.

frank sucevic · Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 18:21 Post subject:

hi ya bigjoe i think if you oiled and filterd it correctley next stage is get plugged in at main agents for a readout costs about £30 for 30 minuets if nothing found we will chat again mate i must say there are experts on this forum i am not one of them frankie

bigjoe · * Joined: 18 Dec 2005 Posts: 13 Location: Alston, Cumbria

Cheers guys, its gonna get booked in for a service at main dealer shortly so hopefully that will sort it out.

Contacted IM today to check out its history and it has had a turbo replacement and the seals done in the injectors. They also told me that they were almost finished the recall for the ceramic heaters on the 3.1's and were about to start the 3.0.

They also said that the injectors would be checked when it was in to ensure they were the latest model.

frank sucevic · Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 19:19 Post subject:

yes mate i think thats the best way to go for you please keep us informed we are intrested and we do care frankie

eithan h · Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 23:13 Post subject:

it's either the oil pressure sensor or oil pressure control valve i'd go with the oil pressure sensor first. more than likely though they don't put up a fault code so don't be disappointed if they say they can't find anything wrong

frank sucevic · Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 23:46 Post subject:

bigjoe · * Joined: 18 Dec 2005 Posts: 13 Location: Alston, Cumbria

cheers ethan h, where are the sensor and control valves located and how do i go about testing them? I have read that the pressure switch needs to be coded in by the dealer if it is changed, can i disconnect it to test it?

Thanks in advance!
Joe.

eithan h · Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 12:37 Post subject:

no you can't disconnect it to test it as you need oil pressure to make it work and with it disconnected it won't start at all! same with the control valve and it works via a duty ratio as well you really need tech 2 to look at the figures on cranking and start up and go from there

bigjoe · * Joined: 18 Dec 2005 Posts: 13 Location: Alston, Cumbria

Hi guys, thanks for all your help and replies, just dropping a note for an update.

Went out in it just after my last post, left it for ten mins then went back and it would't start at all.

The problem was traced back to air in the fuel lines caused by a rotten tank and a porous fuel line. So a new tank and a new section of fuel line later its a lot better.

Problem is, it is still getting a small amount of air into the fuel so i need to bleed it every morning before i go anywhere. Rest of the fuel lines look good.

What do i try next? where else can air be getting in? Confused

cheers guys.

eithan h · Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 23:28 Post subject:

filter primer unit is a good one for air leaks as well
you seriously had a corroded tank on a 3.0l?!?!?!?!? must be the first one ever i should think.

bigjoe · * Joined: 18 Dec 2005 Posts: 13 Location: Alston, Cumbria

filter primer unit eh? is there a way to check it, can i fix it or is it a replacement jobbie and if so how much will it cost?

As for the tank, the guy who changed it said the top of it was very corroded and that the hose connections broke off while he tried to remove the hoses.

eithan h · Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 23:42 Post subject:

you can test it but need a mityvac or similar remove it from car empty diesel out then attach mityvac to the fuel in side and put finger over the fuel out side and then pump away you should be able to see on the gauge if it's holding pressure if it's not you need a new one. you will need the filter on to do the test so dont leave it off or you could just put a loop of pipe between the inlet and outlet pipes to try and see if it starts any better but then you bypass the filter which might not be a good idea if you have had a rusty tank.
also have you got the one way valve in the fuel return pipe?

bigjoe · * Joined: 18 Dec 2005 Posts: 13 Location: Alston, Cumbria

not sure about the return valve, was it a standard fitment? If so where abouts could i find it. I'm a little thrown coz i always thought that check valves went on the supply line, not the return line, you learn something new every day.