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DIY Suspension Lifting - The How to

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dxmedia
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 20:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lying under the side I could only swing about 25 - 30 degrees at a time, so although the nut doesn't need turning that much, it takes bleeding ages...
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 20:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

But I bet you had big muscles at the end of it!
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dxmedia
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 20:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

hahahaha you've never met me then Wink   no I just used a very long bar, I keep eating my spinach but it don't do nuffink.
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K.Goodwin
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 20:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

bit like meself, built for speed not comfort Laughing
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Webby
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found it much easier to jack the front of the car off the ground.  I also used a windy gun, so no idea how many turns i did!
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ken_bentley
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 2:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all
Can some one help me please, i have lifted my trooper, it sits 4" higher than when i bought it, but the suspention was buggered then. Anyway which ball joint do i flip, i have fliped the one on the upper wish bone and fitted a 1/4" spacer but still have a lot of negitive camber. Can anyone confirm that i have done the right ball joint before i take a welder to it to move the lower ball joint out.

Also does anyone have any ideas why i dont get that much articulation in the front suspention. Does anyone have a recomendations about removing antiroll bars, which ones to remove or keep, i currentley don't have a rear one (it snaped) it is much better offroad since.

Thanks

Ken

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K.Goodwin
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 8:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twister has anti roll bar disconnects, so, you can disconnect the roll bars for off road use, then connect 'em back up for the drive home.
From what i can gather, you only forget to connect them back up again once  Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

K.Goodwin wrote:
Twister has anti roll bar disconnects, so, you can disconnect the roll bars for off road use, then connect 'em back up for the drive home.
From what i can gather, you only forget to connect them back up again once  Laughing


Oooer! I had a mate squealing the other day, and I always thought mine was quite stiff!
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

Umm, I'll clarify that! Embarassed Whilst going round a tight corner, the tyres protested a bit and he was convinced we were on 2 wheels! The big girl nearly jumped out, wouldn't like to try it with the roll bars disconnected.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked  Laughing

glad you clarified that.

too much information!  Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 17:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

ken_bentley wrote:
Hi all
Can some one help me please, i have lifted my trooper, it sits 4" higher than when i bought it, but the suspention was buggered then. Anyway which ball joint do i flip, i have fliped the one on the upper wish bone and fitted a 1/4" spacer but still have a lot of negitive camber. Can anyone confirm that i have done the right ball joint before i take a welder to it to move the lower ball joint out.



You have done the ball joint flip correctly. I have never heard of a trooper lifted 4" at the front without a bodylift. The only way to lift the front  4" higher than standard, is winding the torsion bars to the max and also removing the rubber droop snubbers.  I would say the front torsion bar is wound up to much, wind it down half of inch, and that should correct your negative camber. I would not relocate the bottom ball joint.  

Quote:

Also does anyone have any ideas why i dont get that much articulation in the front suspention. Does anyone have a recomendations about removing antiroll bars, which ones to remove or keep, i currentley don't have a rear one (it snaped) it is much better offroad since.


The higher you lift the front, the more articulation you loose, because there is only so far the upper front arm can drop before hitting the droop snubbers (bump stops), because of this, I do not see any point in disconnecting the front sway bars. If you Trooper is lifted above 3" over standard, I would say you have no down travel at all. You can buy low prifile droop snubbers from independent4x USA, these will gain an extra half of inch down travel.  Your LSD (if you got one) should get you out of most problems when you loose front and rear traction.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 23:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Droop snubbers, not heard of that, love it! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 14:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

the front suspention is 4" higher than when i bought it. i have no idea what standard is. i saw the low profile droop snubbers but they look bigger than what is fitted to mine. the suspention has just under 2" of downward travel. there is 36 Cm between the 16" rim and the wheel arch as it sits on the road.  the lsd gets does the job, its just the body follows the angle of the front axel the suspention doesn't compress like the rear.

anyhow i now have bigger problems after sundays offroading trip, the negitive camber has gone so i must have bent something  Confused  but worse still the front prop snaped and smashed a hole in the gearbox  Crying or Very sad
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 21:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

4" is too high with standard susp arms. You will get too much negative camber, and NO downward travel at all, especially if you are running standard droop snubbers (downward bump stops  Rolling Eyes ).

3.5 " is about as far as you can go, but that is with the slimline droop snubbers in place, and the top ball joint flipped. ( both to regain lost downward travel ), Oh, and extended shocks, otherwise the whole exercise is pointless. My shocks are +1", with a 1" shock spacer. Oh, and don't touch the bottom ball joints.

Of course, none of this is noticable if your anti-roll bar is connected, but DO NOT DRIVE ON THE OPEN ROAD WITH THE ANTI ROLL BARS DISCONNECTED.
- It is both quite scary, and dangerous.

The front susp travel will increase by about 4 to 5 inches if done properly.

Yes it does make a huge difference off road if the whole package is put together properly, but obviously, not as much as a live axle front end conversion would do.

I have only really gone into detail in the article as far as a 2inch lift, and will in time go into greater detail as to lifting further, because it becomes a lot more involved.

Bearing in mind, when I wrote the original article, I didn't even know if anyone was going to be interested in it  Razz ., let alone actually doing it  Cool .
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 22:08    Post subject: suspenion travel Reply with quote

hi i have got a 3.1 98 trooper.
i am wanting to lift it but dont want to spend much money what do i need to buy or make to raise it 2 inches.
can i flip the top ball joint or is this pointless on a 2'' lift.
do i need shocks and springs if so who is the best to get it from.
i also want to put some big *beep* tyres on and was wondering how big i could go with a 2'' lift.
do nissan patrol wheels fit or is the offset wrong.
lots of question sorry just not done much with 4x4s before more in to dropping cars and racing them but felt like a change
cheers
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