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DIY Suspension lifting - The how to

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markymoan
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 20:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats all we need, two blummin monster trucks  Rolling Eyes
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Chris B
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 20:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont worry marky... my wallet is still healing after buying it!
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VXer
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Joined: 15 Sep 2006
Posts: 29
Location: Bisley

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr T,

Thanks for the words of wisdom, I was thinking I'd done something completely wrong but it sounds like I just need to play more. I think the ball joint flip has actually created more +ve camber than I need and therefore I've had to shim to try and bring it back to zero. I'm going to undo the flip reset the shims and start again. I'm hoping to do it tonight but with my 3 year old helping things tend to take longer than anticipated Smile I'll report back just in case it's any help to anyone.

Col
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Twister
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Joined: 21 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 21:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, tested it for the first time last Sunday with the front anti roll bar disconnected. Definitely not for the faint hearted. The rear disconnects allow loads of articulation, and make a big difference, the front ones do the same, but with both disconnected the body roll on even the slightest side slope gets quite scary. If it was an older car with a roll cage I probably wouldnt have been so worried, but it is my pride and joy, and I really didnt fancy putting it on its side, so I quickly reconnected the fronts.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mr T.

Sorry I didn't get in contact life took over as usual.

Intersting to read your report on anti roll bar disconnect, it's a big thing with the guys in the VX forum for offroading but I've yet to try it. Maybe with the smaller body it might not be quite so unnerving  Smile
For my part I've managed to gain what I think is a good understanding of Camber, Castor and shimming and have reset mine and it looks good measured with a spirit level but I'll have to have the tracking redone and check tyre wear to know for sure. Next job is the new remote controllable shocks hopefully this weekend, I'll post picks when complete.

Col
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singyracer
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Joined: 01 Nov 2006
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Location: carnforth lancs

PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 0:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I have just joined to try to find out about trooper lift kits,and from what I have read it seems to be a bit of problem. There is no longer a kit with wish bones on the market as I rang them last week,there answer was not a good kit for jo public to fit so no longer made. I have been motersport 20 years made all my owne mods to cars, I build cages to owners specs,convert f.w.d. cars to r.w.d, etc. So when I get chance I will get the wifes trooper on my ramp at work and see if ti is possible to make new arms to use the standard bars etc, but lift the car by 2 to 3 inch plus see what else is needed and can be made on the front. On the back I will see if I can make spacers for the springs etc. If I can get it to work and there is a lot of interest I would make more to sell on. Hope this may help all you trooper drivers.
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leeanson
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Joined: 03 Feb 2006
Posts: 351
Location: northumberland

PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 0:54    Post subject: suspension kits Reply with quote

What year trooper mate ?   calmini make longer arms for the earlier models, not sure of later just because ive never looked for them.
Have you tried the calmini website ?
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singyracer
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Joined: 01 Nov 2006
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Location: carnforth lancs

PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 13:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hav been in contact with them in US no longer do the kit for mine 1994 unless the guy I spoke to has no idea what they do.
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leeanson
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 20:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried Independant 4x in the US im sure they will be able to sort you out.
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 17:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Twister wrote:
I know my old 1990 2.8TD showed too much negative camber at 1.5 inches of lift, but a ball joint flip gave it too much positive camber, so by lifting it even further after the ball joint flip, to about 2.5 inches, the camber at static was reset to virtually zero.


Does this not take two much droop travel away for road driving?
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Twister
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 21:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it does take away droop travel, but the combination of the ball joint flip, and the low profile "droop snubbers" ( the downward bump- stops) gives you back what you effectively lost. This also means more overall travel. I now have approx 8.5 inches travel on the front, split roughly 60% bump, 40% droop, compared to the 5.5 inches as stock. It is worth having a good look at the links from my original suspension lift doc, as they show all this in some detail.
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jonkem
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Joined: 11 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 23:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMHO The problem with all the questions about lifting the fronts on Troopers is that there are major differences betweem MKI & MKIIs. None of the affected components are the same between the models & what works for one doesn't usually work for the other.

IHF If you crank a MKI up to 2.5" all the downward travel has already gone, even with bump stops completely removed. The joint flip gives some back and rectifies the angle between the top & bottom arms. But even with the bumpstops completely removed you only get the thickness of the joint and the arm back and you will still be lifting front wheels constantly offroad. That is the reality of lifting a MKI.

IHAF You can achieve that amount of lift on a MKII because the arms are longer (but also weaker!) as are the driveshafts and the hub carrier is also 20mm taller. Add that to a joint flip & lower profile bumpstops and you get just where you want to be quite easily!

The Calmini top arms are not only longer but have a cranked shape to them, they make a big difference on a MKI Troop or early (leafsprung) Frontera. They are also much, much stronger than stock arms. You also have to address the axle height because this affects the angle of the driveshafts. At 2" MKI driveshafts have already exceeded the design spec and the CVs don't last very long offroad. Dropping the axle is not simply a matter of fitting spacers to the mountings either!!!
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1994 KZJ70 Cruiser (currently filling the garage and causing some head scratching)
1988 MKI 3.1td Hybrid Van (Ex Bobtail)
1991 SWB Fronty 2.8td Hybrid
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2006 VXR Astra
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 0:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basically big lifts are out for a Mk1 without extensive/expensive mods then.
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jonkem
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 0:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately Matski, it is not possible to just crank it & flip em the same as it is on a MKII and get a satisfactory result. The basic engineering & geometry stops it from working.

I am intending to swap all the front components from a MKII onto my Bobtail but time has been against me, with comps to drive etc. I already have the uprights on working perfectly with no other mods. I will post the info as soon as I get the arms & driveshafts fitted. Then you'll be able to get every bit as high as Mr Twister Twisted Evil But that may not be until around Christmas time when the mother-in-law visits and I have a good excuse to be in the gararge 20 horus a day Smile
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1994 KZJ70 Cruiser (currently filling the garage and causing some head scratching)
1988 MKI 3.1td Hybrid Van (Ex Bobtail)
1991 SWB Fronty 2.8td Hybrid
2000 Astra Estate (work)
2006 VXR Astra
MK1 SR Nova
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:::Matski:::
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 11:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with that one Wink
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