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Xeffin1 *
Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport
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Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 21:44 Post subject: Trooper SWB 3.0 2001, starting issue |
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Bought as a non runner I am trying to resurrect the trooper.
The problem is it will not start, things done to present are.
White wire cut
Made sure fuel is in tank
Extra 2litres oil
No starting.
Used a spray of easy start it fired up and then continued running allowing me to rev it and tick over was smooth, this lasted for ten or fifteen mins the engine note changed lower and stuttered slightly I revved it it settled down for a few seconds then stopped as if switched off I tried to restart with no joy except with a shot of easy start but this time it would not continue running.
Anyone have any thoughts?
I am leaning towards the ECU. |
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Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 21:44 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Gribble *******
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 8448 Location: Holset H221W
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:35 Post subject: |
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Yes , first put the easy start away its only going to damage this type of engine -
You have 3 possible faults at this point ,crank sensor,rail oil control valve,air getting in the fuel .
First crack off the 10mm head bleed screw on the fuel filter housing and pump away,should be air free fuel coming out next the 17mm dome head nut by the thermostat and crank over the engine ,good fuel pressure should be present from that .
Next you need to check the volts at the ecu in the CKP sensor its in the manual on how to do this -
If all the aboves fine then its time to get the oil rail valve out theres a bit of a guide by me in Starting issue on how to check it .
The fact the cars started once and run really rules out the ECU to me . _________________ 2 New Troopers ! |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:37 Post subject: |
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doubt it, when the ecu goes they won't start at all, you need a tech2 now because you need to check your getting a crank signal which i think from the sounds of it thats what your losing and also check for oil pressure to the injectors. the gauge on the dash is not for the injectors, you have already ruled out the orps, broken or cracked strainer but also check for wet or damp patches on top of the fuel tank and air getting in through the lift pump.
can you smell diesel in the coolant at all? |
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Gribble *******
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 8448 Location: Holset H221W
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:38 Post subject: |
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beat ya e - _________________ 2 New Troopers ! |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:39 Post subject: |
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beat me by 2 mins mr G! |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:39 Post subject: |
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LOL |
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Xeffin1 *
Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 20:43 Post subject: |
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[size=12] Cheers guys will have a go at all the suggestions through this week and post the results, couple of things i forgot to mention is that when it ran the "check engine" light was on steady all the time and the batteries are totally duff. The recommended batteries from what i see are the 70AH is that right? [/size] |
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ladydriver ****
Joined: 30 Apr 2006 Posts: 327 Location: Worcestershire
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Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 20:49 Post subject: |
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Check engine light could be because you cut the white wire, leave the batteries off for a couple of hours to clear any codes and if the light is still on when you reconnect try the paperclip test and flash the codes _________________ JDW
1999 3.0l Citation SWB |
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Xeffin1 *
Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 20:50 Post subject: |
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Wellllll, things tried so far are:-
removed cam sensor - It looked like new scratched me ed and put it back.
Fuses all checked - All OK
Fuel pump + Filter bled via 10mm bolt on side, not a lot of fuel came out and the hand plunger never gets real hard so to speak.
Cracked the domed nut and pumped away manually, every so often a drip fell out, i am sure i read somewhere it is supposed to squirt??
Could i be on to something here? Either fuel pipes drawing air or primer pump not very well??
I will check when I get a little more time the fuel lines.
I would like to get it Tech 2'd to nail it proper but have no idea who has one, I have tried 3 different readers all say can't connect to ECU, does anyone have one they could help me out with near Stockport?
Cheers for the help so far. |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 20:59 Post subject: |
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yes it should squirt out so like you said check the lines around the tank and bypass the filter housing, also check they have the pipes on the right way round at the filter housing, the one nearest the front of the vehicle is fuel in. |
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Xeffin1 *
Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 22:52 Post subject: |
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Cheers for the quick response, i am looking forward to a wet weekend LOL |
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Gribble *******
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 8448 Location: Holset H221W
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Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 18:31 Post subject: |
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crank over the engine (with key) , good fuel pressure should be present from that . the domed nut that is . _________________ 2 New Troopers ! |
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Xeffin1 *
Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport
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Posted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 16:11 Post subject: |
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Didnt get as much time as i wanted to play with this. I will need to have a closer look at the fuel lines and tank i think, does anyone know or have a diagram of the fuel lines / their line of route (there must be common areas of pipe failure) is it steel pipe throughout with flexi hose at the tank end and where it rises in the engine bay, any other area's you can point me to?
Is there any test i can do to check, i have access to a high pressure air line, i was wondering if it would be an idea to blow the line back to the tank or would this be a silly idea? The next chance i get i will remove the filter and hand primer pump to check its operation.
The batteries are not very good but with help from jump cables it seems it almost wants to start, the cranking speeds up slightly and seems to have a faint kick every 4th beat of the turnover, this stops and the cranking slows dramatically.
Another thought, does it have a electric fuel pump near the tank or is it purely sucked by the high pressure pump?
Any fuel system diagrams would be most helpful, also how you access the various bits.
Cheers for the help so far. |
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Xeffin1 *
Joined: 05 Oct 2013 Posts: 34 Location: Stockport
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Posted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 16:50 Post subject: |
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Didnt get as much time as i wanted to play with this. I will need to have a closer look at the fuel lines and tank i think, does anyone know or have a diagram of the fuel lines / their line of route (there must be common areas of pipe failure) is it steel pipe throughout with flexi hose at the tank end and where it rises in the engine bay, any other area's you can point me to? |
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SimonT *
Joined: 16 Oct 2012 Posts: 37 Location: Hindhead
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Posted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 19:23 Post subject: |
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On top of the tank is the usual place plenty of post on 'how to' including cutting the floor to get at them lol
Take of the pipe going to the fuel filter at the front and blow down it,if you make a bit of pressure and then hear bubbling in the tank its ok ,then put your finger over the filter inlet and pump away .if it don't keep a suck on there the primers had it .if you have pressure when blowing and suck then take off the the other filter pipe and put the finger on again and pump ,should make and hold some pressure again.
There is a mechanical lift pump in the hpop which is what you were testing when you cracked the dome nut and cranked over with the key .
gribble . |
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