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Trooper SWB 3.0 2001, starting issue

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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 23:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Simon, As i suspected i always have to do the hard way LOL. The tips for the suck blow on the pump is a good idea and i will put my airline down the inlet pipe from the tank and see what that gets me.
I really don't fancy dropping the tank it's 3/4 full, that's a lot of diesel to drain out but... if needs must and all that.

Cheers
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 18:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

The continuing tale.  Removed lift pump and false fed from a can absolutely nothing, batteries are fully charged engine turnover is fast with no sign of a kick ( I think it was wishful thinking in my previous post LOL) Fuel lift pump is fine i pumped fuel out of the tank into a can with no problem.

Crank sensor = 3 pins.  1- (neg) and two other pins when tested give 10.83 volts on each one.

There is a green wire with a red stripe that exits the loom that goes to the crank sensor this is not connected anywhere, i cant even see where it should attach, any ideas?

So really that should leave Faulty ECU / Faulty Oil pressure control valve (solenoid??) or crank sensor.

If the ECU is acting up is there an easy way for me to test it?

Thanks so far.

I am going to write to Santa (Tech 2 LOL) spotted them on Ali Express from china, a copy no doubt but others recon they work just as well, between £300 and £400 maybe cheaper if you look around.
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Gribble
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
Posts: 8448
Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 18:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really you need to pop the ropcv and see if the pistons stuck ,the crank sensor wants measuring at the ECU junction when cranking over to check for volts umm cant remember which wire it is but I will stick it up later .

Think its wire 32 in the plug nearest the engine .

Would it be worth getting onto trooperdan to come over for a plug in ?
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 20:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would really like to do that, problem is getting transport for it. Where is Trooper Dan? I gather you mean he has a Tech 2 to read the faults. That would be ideal if that could be done.

Cheers Gribble
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fbarron
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Joined: 18 Feb 2012
Posts: 53
Location: ireland

PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 8:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

i noticed thT wire too and i think its a wire for the air con sensor or something like that. a main dealer had a look at mine when i was getting door hinges and he said just shove it out of the way
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 16:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks fbarron, that another question sorted.
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Gribble
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
Posts: 8448
Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 17:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan comes to you with T2  Wink
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 13:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gribble, That would be ideal, there is that much info on the site however and being a newbie, dont have a clue how to get in touch with Trooper Dan.

I found out how to do a flash test from one of your previous posts, if i have counted right ( by the way it flashed each code once until eventually it repeated itself)
as follows:-

15 = Fuel Temp High Voltage
21 = Accelerator position sensor Low / High Volts
26 = EGR Pressure sensor low volts
63 = Rail pressure sensor low volts (White wire is cut?)
37 = EGR EVRV - circuit open / short
31 = EGR VSV circuit
71 = EXH #1 VSV circuit open short
67 = Glow lamp open circuit - short

It's a bit depressing to see so many.

Glow plug lamp works fine clicks on and off as it should

EGR & EXH codes will they prevent it starting?

ORPS i presume is because the wire is cut.

Accelerator position sensor ??? no idea

Fuel temp Voltage, again ???

Does all of this trigger anything with anyone?

I will hopefully get the ORPCV out and check the plunger for smoothness today. will post result on that.

Cheers so far..

This is a journey me thinks LOL
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 15:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.itocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17267&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Getting at the ORPCV I saw the post above and have took out fuel primer, ECU, VSV and few other odds and ends trying to work around the steel pipe  Shocked

The pics show the thing but am i right that you undo the nut at the end does that allow the solenoid to slide off?? the solenoid is big and fat so it's near impossible to get at the large 29mm nut that locks it to the pump

I know a lot of you have removed this, i have already stabbed my finger to death with a screwdriver trying to remove a sensor coupling (First blood to the Trooper)  so a little help with technique would be really useful. I hate trying to re invent the wheel LOL.

Thanks

By the way the info on this site is astounding i have spent hours looking at some of it, the knowledge is unbelievable, every problem, someone has been there before.
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eithan h
Moderator
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
Posts: 8195
Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 16:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes undo the 19mm or 17mm tin nut i can't remember then slide back the top hat shape spacer then slide back the solenoid part, i also remove the thin fuel pipe as it gets in the way
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 17:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Eithan, managed to sort all that, just need the 29mm spanner to remove the body hopefully i will pick one up tomorrow.

Anyone else contemplating doing this it is relatively easy just fiddly, the nut at the end is a delicate pressed steel thing that does not require a lot of pressure to undo, be careful as it is only made of very thin steel pressed into the shape of a nut, once that's off the top hat thing is a spacer that slides off the tube ( Mine came off very easy as it was full of oil, the solenoid slips off the same way. All thats left is the tube and the big 29mm nut which when undone should allow me to remove the ORPCV, Is the valve made of gold by the way? at £350  a shot it might be LOL, other makers use similar valves theirs are around £30.

Did anyone manage to look at the flash codes i posted earlier??

Thanks
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Gribble
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
Posts: 8448
Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 18:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes but first drop off the battery-lead so it will clear any old codes that are not present now  and try again .

Most of those can be down to a low battery and trooperdan will pm you or try his website which is I think

http://www.independentisuzu.co.uk/
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 0:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Gribble, I appreciate you taking the time and trouble, you must love these motors to dedicate so much of your time and i for one am very glad you do.

Cheers
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 18:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK. another day, Oil Rail Pressure Control Valve has been removed has a very smooth action when center is pushed in so plunger is definitely not stuck. Put it all back together and tried it... nothing, although cranking increased in tempo after a few turns as if it is trying to go, It could be just wishful thinking again LOL.

So tried everything that's posted just need to probably buy a part that's goosed but before i do that i eant to know what is goosed rather than the scatter gun approach. I definitely need a Tech 2 reading.javascript:emoticon('Question')
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Xeffin1
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Joined: 05 Oct 2013
Posts: 34
Location: Stockport

PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 18:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to mention all the codes have cleared except 1 after the battery was off overnight, it has left me code 34 Map Sensor low voltage or high voltage.
Will this prevent a start?

I reconnected the white wire which cleared code 63..

Does anyone know what this does or where and what it looks like?

Cheers
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