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Hello and glow plug problem


 
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garethmorgan50
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Joined: 31 Oct 2013
Posts: 5
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 21:04    Post subject: Hello and glow plug problem Reply with quote

Firstly, this is my first post on this forum having just purchased a Bighorn 3.1 TD Auto. I'd like to say hello to everybody.

I also have a few problems that i'm hoping someone will help me with.

Firstly, the manual I have is in Japanese.. the pictures don't tell me a lot and so I'm not really sure of the correct method for starting her. I assume I preheat but I have a knob that turns and advances the revs and a button that has a picture of an engine with a temperature.. this has lit once for me but doesn't seem to work or do anything much.

Secondly, the coil light (orange) flashes on the dashboard intermittently, the guy who sold me the car said he'd had it checked and it wasn't a fault with the glowplugs.. maybe??? The bighorn doesn't start very easily and I need to turn her over a couple of times to start. Once started she runs well.

Thirdly, the steering seems very light, is this normal?

Cheers
Gareth
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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
Posts: 513
Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 16:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Solution #1           Download  the PDF Manual for the Trooper at Jeepolog. It's a big file ≈ 60 MB - but it's fairly comprehensive and, by the standards of Motor Manuals - almost makes sense!

#2            The 'Coil-Light' is the symbol for the Glow-Plugs - which is supposed to light for about 15 seconds and then go out - to indicate that the cylinders have been pre-heated to assist in easy-starting. With the light OFF, the glow-plugs maintain the heat for 3 more minutes to smooth the transition to 'normal running'. If it lights at all, your fuse must be OK and the circuit is at least roughly 'joined-up'. Check that each stage is 'live' when it should be. First the grey connector fixed to the bulkhead, just in front of the speedo. With a voltmeter, check that you have battery voltage there when you turn the ignition key to ON and for 3 minutes after the glow-plug light has gone out on the dashboard. If not, fix that first!

If that's fine, check the glow-plugs themselves. THAT requires you to remove the plastic cover from the rocker-box - and all other gubbins which lie in your way. Then the plugs are found between the inlet-manifold and the rocker-box - down in the V-shaped slot. There should be a live connector carrying about 11 V at the bulkhead-end - coming from the grey connector. It, too, should be live when you turn ON the ignition and for 3 minutes after that - as should the copper bus-bar connecting the glow-plugs. If NOT - then the line from the grey-connector is suspect.

If ALL IS WELL, at least for the electrical power supply, then test the plugs by disconnecting the copper strip - be careful NOT to lose the 8mm nuts!!! Each glow-plug should show 1-2 Ohms of resistance [when isolated] between its little screw and the cylinder-block. If NOT - then that plug is dead. NB - my car started easily and ran PERFECTLY with all four dead ----- but the neighbours DID NOT like the smoke!!! Replacement of dead glow-plugs is cheap and technically easy - but they often stick in their little sockets and the top snaps off - which can require very expensive repairs!!

#3         It SHOULD have power-steering - which should be light and easily handled. More to the point - is it 'precise' and without undue 'slack' when you try to drive a long straight road? If yes - then congratulate the designers on a good car! If NO - then give us some more info on 'symptoms' and someone here will know how to fix it!
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KeithB1
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Joined: 02 Apr 2011
Posts: 260
Location: N.Wales

PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 19:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi and welcome to the club.

Just as you say for starting the truck, wait for the glow plug light to go out and start.

The knob for increasing the revs is nothing to do with starting the truck, I just use it in winter to heat the engine up quicker before setting off in the truck.

The button with the engine on it is for the quick warm up system. It closes a flap in the exhaust, therefore keeping the hot gasses in the engine and heating it quicker. It's known as the 'do not touch' button as the flap in the exhaust has a habbit of sticking shut and causing poor running.

I don't know why your glow plug light would flash intermittently, there's plenty of posts on here about glow plugs and things to check or someone will be along soon to help a bit more.
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Bighorn 3.1TD SWB (1993), 3" suspension lift, snorkel
Bighorn 3.1TD (1992)
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Gribble
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
Posts: 8448
Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 19:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats an interesting fault as the 3.1 auto has an anti stall sensor in the glowplug circuit ,now browndoffs done a good write up on how a 3.0 glow system works but the 3.1 is a bit more complex  Smile and  the plugs come out easy on them .

Avoid the button with the engine on it has a nasty habit of sticking the flap in the exhaust shut and you don't go anywhere

It has whats called a QOS controller -  thats quick on start to us on  here and it can play up so a bit more infos needed .

When you go to start from cold is there lots of white smoke and does heating the plugs twice help at all ?

Does the glow light flash on in time with gear changes or just when it feels like it ?
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garethmorgan50
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Joined: 31 Oct 2013
Posts: 5
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 22:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the answers guys.. there is white smoke from the exhaust on turning over, the glow light doesn't seem to correspond with turning the ignition key it just flashes when it feels like it.

could the exhaust valve be stuck now and causing the starting problem.. i have pressed it quite a lot and only got it lit once??
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Gribble
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
Posts: 8448
Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 19:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doubt it as when your going its ok ?

You need to test the plugs and the supply ,probably just as easy to put a set in not a hard job and not expensive .

If you like to do a bit yourself then take off the strip that joins the glowplugs and measure the resistance of each one it should be 0.8 to 1.0 ohms anything else means the plugs had it . Or can take them out and use some jump leads to see if they glow ,dont let em go red hot this way just smoking is ok .

If you put some new ones and that cures the starting then you get different smoke check the after glow supply  to the plugs ,should be 7 volts for about 3 minutes .
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garethmorgan50
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Joined: 31 Oct 2013
Posts: 5
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 18:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, so i checked the relay and there was power going to it but not coming from it. Its taken me ages but I've managed to track down a replacement relay. Its fitted and there is now an audible click when the engine is turned (from the relay) but unfortunately the starting issue isn't resolved.. does anyone know the part numbers for the grey connector on the bulkhead and the glowplugs because although there is power to these, they must have something to do with the problem.
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williamt72@googlemail.com
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Joined: 02 Feb 2013
Posts: 16
Location: pitlochry scotland

PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2013 22:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

garethmorgan50 wrote:
ok, so i checked the relay and there was power going to it but not coming from it. Its taken me ages but I've managed to track down a replacement relay. Its fitted and there is now an audible click when the engine is turned (from the relay) but unfortunately the starting issue isn't resolved.. does anyone know the part numbers for the grey connector on the bulkhead and the glowplugs because although there is power to these, they must have something to do with the problem.


are you still having problems sounds very similar to mine would appreciate any info?
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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
Posts: 513
Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 11:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Gribble has pointed-out, your 3.1 IS different from my 3.0L - but the BASICS are still the same. Having put in the new relay, you've now got 12V as far as the grey connector - but you've got to follow it down to the plugs themselves. The part# for the glow-plug wiring-loom is NOT required - 'cos it's NOT very likely that you'd have to replace it. Just check that the cables are not broken between that grey connector and down to the strip of copper that joins the plugs them selves.

If you've got 11-12v down to the plugs then it's back to Gribble's description, above, for instructions on testing the plugs themselves. It should NOT scare you off! It's an easy 'starter-job' - ideal for giving you the confidence to tackle more tricky stuff! Surely SOMEONE can lend you a multimeter to test the plugs - and the very few spanners needed to get at them....?

If the plugs ARE dead - they're fairly easy to remove on the 3.1 and cheap to replace. You don't need their part # either - just tell them you want glow plugs for an Isuzu 3.1 Diesel Trooper.
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