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EGR valve stuck open?

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manx trooper
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Joined: 27 Nov 2013
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Location: isle of man

PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 21:04    Post subject: EGR valve stuck open? Reply with quote

Hi guys, is it possible for an egr valve to stick open?
Reason for asking is my egr valve has been blanked off by threading a bolt down the vac pipe.
Thing is i can still here a hissing sound around that area and when i had a poke around realised the plunger shaft and the whole back of the egr is all sooted up and cruddy.

any advice would be great!
Cheers
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 21:04    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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eithan h
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 20:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

3.0l trooper? yes mine is the same they are known to wear and therefore leak and i've got a replacement ready to go on when the rain stops!
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manx trooper
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 20:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes 3.0, is it worth just getting a blanking plate and take the whole thing off?
Tbh its not running 100% at the mo, just seems to be no pickup after 2k revs.
Got flashcodes only code 66 popped up which I expected as the 50amp glowplug fuse is goosed and been to lazy to get plugs changed :-/

Cheers.
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 21:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can't get a blanking plate for them due to the design all you can do is pull off the vac pipe and that will leave the valve in the shut position anyway, what year is it?
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manx trooper
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 21:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh right... So just be easier to buy a new egr valve then?
its an 02 with 84k
cheers
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 21:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

can do, i got mine off trooper dan on here, you could always put a sealant around the plunger hole
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manx trooper
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 21:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really stupid question time! Seal Inlet side or plunger side? Also is there anything  else that can cause the symptoms my troop has without throwing the CEL on?

Cheers eithan h appologise for the stupid questions!
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 21:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

take the valve off and where the plunger comes out of the hole in the valve body put some sealant up there, as you got a euro 3 engine check the map sensor on the top of the manifold near the bulkhead, they are known for blocking up and causing no go.
also could be a the orps starting to play up
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Browndoff
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 20:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

While it would be GREAT to remove the EGR altogether - if one could block the port from the Exhaust-Tube effectively - but it's much simpler - and more reliable - to clean up its valve-face [just like any poppet-valve] and make sure it's seating properly. You'll still have the shaft of the valve obstructing the Air-Inlet Manifold to some extent.

THEN you can disable its future functioning by removing the vacuum-tube running into the base of the EGR and sealing-off its end [to prevent air getting into the REST of the vacuum-system]. When it's no longer pouring soot into the inlet, life will improve enormously for your engine - especially if, as Eithan has said, you clean the MAP thoroughly.

The MAP tells the ECM HOW MUCH air is currently being drawn into the engine - from which it judges how much FUEL is required - so, clearly a CLEAN MAP is vital! It's easy to clean it with a twist of tissue-paper and some carb-cleaner to finish.
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2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 21:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shaft is on the exhaust side on the 3.0
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fostri
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 23:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could also take off the exhaust manifold and make a blanking plate for the first port on it. That's the one that takes the exhaust gasses through the head to the egr valve.
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manx trooper
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 16:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well guys the gasket between the egr and inlet manifold is goosed but to cause more missery whilst I was looking around we found a small hole/crack in the intercooler, so hopefully sorted the hissing and loss of power above 2k revs (if our fix works) fingers crossed!!
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Browndoff
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 20:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Fostri           I'm fascinated by your suggestion than one could block the exhaust used in the EGR from the EXHAUST MANIFOLD end! My only concern, is that one would have to make a new sheet metal plate [steel, perhaps?] to go between the manifold and the Cylinder-Head. It would need to have gaskets on each side of it and a set of holes to match those in the standard gaskets - EXCEPT where the exhaust-gas was 'collected' for the EGR....! THERE it would be solid and block the gas-flow to the EGR-valve.

Such a block  - at the exhaust-entry-point for the EGR-System - would allow folk to remove the EGR valve altogether and put a simple plate over the hole in the Inlet-Manifold. I'd LOVE to try it! It would certainly improve the Air-Flow in the Inlet-Manifold!
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 21:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't remove the valve completely because of how it seals off the 2 sections in the inlet manifold, also each port on the exhaust manifd has a separate gasket so only one part would need to be made to block the egr port.
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Browndoff
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 0:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, Eithan - but THAT'S whats' so fascinating! If the exhaust-end were blocked successfully - then the open port into the Inlet-Manifold would hardly matter - 'cos the other end would be sealed - and the OUTER side of the Inlet-Manifold would be sealed by the new blanking-plate where the EGR-Valve had been.

The big problem to be overcome is getting the exhaust-manifold to 'seat' properly, once a blanking-plate was in place. The integrity of its gas-tightness would have to be maintained - and it could not be 'distorted' by a too-thick plate in one area only.

Still, it's an interesting idea - is it not?
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