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can someone please help 4jx1

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waynus1985
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Joined: 10 Jan 2014
Posts: 30
Location: hertfordshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 13:28    Post subject: can someone please help 4jx1 Reply with quote

Hello there i know its hard without seeing the car but wondered if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction

I have a 2004 trooper 3.0dt 4jx1 which ran lovely up till last week its developed a misfire really jerky to drive at low speeds it actually cut out once but started straight back up ok.
it doesnt smoke and starts fine infact from cold its perfect drives and runs spot on but when the temp gets to half way it starts to cough and splutter and really lumpy idle isuzu tell me the injectors were done under warranty 2011. its had both oil filters fuel and air and millers 5w30 oil any help would be really apreciated as im out of ideas thank you

wayne
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Isuzu_Man03
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Joined: 16 Dec 2012
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Location: Pickering North Yorkshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 18:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be the oil rail pressure sensor
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waynus1985
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Joined: 10 Jan 2014
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Location: hertfordshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 19:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you very much for the reply is this the one that is located behind the oil pump under the egr?
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Isuzu_Man03
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 19:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

No that's the oil rail control valve, the ORPS is under the rocker cover screwed onto the oil rail
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waynus1985
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Joined: 10 Jan 2014
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Location: hertfordshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 20:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

ahh ive heard lots of stories regarding that one am i right in thinking it needs to be coded by tech 2? also whould this flick a code up if it was at fault or not always? thank you
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Browndoff
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Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 22:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both the ORPS [inside the Rocker-Box] and the ROPCV [behind the Oil-Pump] are working together to set the pressure in the Rail and to check that it's actually 'right' - as intended by the ECM. If either one fails in its job then you start to get these symptoms.

When the ORPS finally 'dies' the ECM thinks the pressure in the RAIL is at zero and won't 'enable' the Injectors. So folks try the 'White-Wire-Trick' - i.e. they cut the wire from the ORPS to the ECM - which means it gets a 0 V signal - and thinks the pressure is at MAX - so it 'enables' the Injectors and the engine will start!!

If your car is still starting easily from cold - my bet is on the ROPCV - which can be removed and cleaned and may work fine afterward - though it's hardly guaranteed - but it's a no-cost fix if it does. Some of my Aussie corespondents would say it USUALLY works!
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2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc.
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waynus1985
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Joined: 10 Jan 2014
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Location: hertfordshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 23:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers lads its all really apreciated ile have a go at cleaning the valve tomorrow is it just a case of removing it and cleaning up with a squirt of carb cleaner or will i need to dismantle it?
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Browndoff
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Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 23:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once the ROPCV is out [an awkward job], stripping it is easy - but be gentle - you can't afford to scratch it!

[img][/img]

Clean it with carb-cleaner, or something similar. Be sure to clean thoroughly the 4 tiny holes around the base of the needle-valve [the cylindrical-projection on the main valve]. Then coat ALL of its components with clean engine-oil and re-assemble carefully, with the larger damper-hole in the piston towards the blind-end of the hole in the body. Then re-insert the  fluted screw and the long-pin. The short pin must be put into the cylindrical-projection on the main valve ** with its BLUNT-end towards the long-pin **. The main-valve must then be screwed into the body and tightened with a  pin through the 'trumpet-end' or a jubillee-clip tight around its middle. Then check the O-rings are properly in place and screw it back into place, re-connect the solenoid and tighten the spring-nut to enough torque to ensure the solenoid cannot come OFF!

Simples!
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2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc.
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Gribble
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 14:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its unlikely to be the ROPCV as your still starting from cold ok and running .When you switch off on a 3.0 the ECU puts the RPCV to 0% so injection stops and if the valve gets sticky thats where it stays at 0% so it wont start normally . Symptom is that the rail pressure wont rise above 1 Mpa on T2 .

It might be a faulty coil on the ROPS but thats rare .

Possibly the ORPS but I would be looking at the ETS sensor as it may be reading wrong and the ECU will adjust timing and fuel to suit what the temp sensor tels it .

This is a different sensor to the one that works the temp gauge but its just by it with 2 wires in a plug .If you read the on line manual it says how to test it but they are not a dear part .

Unless you are from Yorkshire  of course .  Smile
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waynus1985
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Location: hertfordshire

PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 18:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you all for your ideas and knowledge give me rusty ford and ile fix it all day but this beast are a different level lol

Gribble im struggling to find much info on the ETS sensor i dont suppose you have any pics to give me an idea of location and is the test straight forward?

thank you all once again
wayne
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Gribble
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 18:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Page 6E-203 in the manual is where its at - might have helped if I'd posted ECT not ETS thats the trouble with being on Fixya too much !
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waynus1985
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 18:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

HAHAHA my mum has the same trouble with the whisky lol thanks mate
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waynus1985
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Joined: 10 Jan 2014
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Location: hertfordshire

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 14:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gribble sorry to bother you again for some reason my pc wont load the manual keeps saying server error but would i be right in thinking the ect sensor is on the thermostat housing a plug with 2 wires?

Also ive noticed from cold on idle the oil pressure is reading half way at 85 maybe a fraction under but this gradually drops to to roughly in between  cold and half way is that normal?

thanks alot

wayne
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hobo
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 14:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know a similar problem that got fixt by changing the "oil rail temp sensor" next to the "orps".
It ran fine cold, and then got jerky and stalled here and there.
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waynus1985
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Joined: 10 Jan 2014
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Location: hertfordshire

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 15:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh really thats what baffles me coz from cold its spot on can idle up to 20 mins and be fine but soon as the temp rises its gets rougher and rougher.
im gonna take gribbles advice and change coolant temp sensor tomorrow cheap fix either way but think if that doesnt cure it then your probably right cheers mate

wayne
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