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andywen8156
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 Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 14:13 Post subject: ecm relay 2 |
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Engine is 4Jx1 1998 3.0 diesel
Hi does anyone know the location of this relay ecm 2 I have found ecm relay 1 in the fuse box
The problem being there is no 12 volts supply to the ecm on pin 2 (connector 3) which is supplied by the ecm relay 2
There is power on pin 1 (connector 3) via ecm relay 1
Is it possible the control to power this relay is via the anti theft device?
The top of the fuse box shows no location for it? as the locations have been wiped off the top of the fuse box
Many thanks
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| Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 14:13 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Gribble
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Location: Holset H221W
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| Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 17:33 Post subject: |
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Its up one row and to the right one row from ECM -1 looking from the wing . The power goes from the 50 amp fuse to ECM 1 and 2 so if ones live 2 should be as well .
J1 -10 pulls (common ground) ECM 2 in to make J3-2 live so try swapping the relays over . Page 6E-35 in the manual has a good pic of this .
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andywen8156
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 1:46 Post subject: |
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| Gribble wrote: |
Its up one row and to the right one row from ECM -1 looking from the wing . The power goes from the 50 amp fuse to ECM 1 and 2 so if ones live 2 should be as well .
J1 -10 pulls (common ground) ECM 2 in to make J3-2 live so try swapping the relays over . Page 6E-35 in the manual has a good pic of this . |
Hi Gibble many thanks for the info
I think its on 6E-34 on my manual but so please you directed me to that will check that out the location in the morning
I seem to have a different wiring on the relays as yes I agree with the power from 50 amp fuse to ecm 1 and 2 relay's contacts
But I see that the ecm 1 relay is held down by chassis earth with the power for the coil from engine fuse 15 Amps
The ecm relay 2 is as you say held down by the signal sent from the ecm J1-10 which will allow the 12 volts to appear on J3-2
I think I have a anti theft device fault as I guess a signal goes to the ecm.... thus the ecm send a signal out on J1-10 as 0 volts to hold it down ecm relay 2
I guess the idea is another stop to starting the engine if the anti theft device does not send this signal to the ecm but I cannot find what input to the ecm it is ?
Please correct me if I am wrong
Many thanks |
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Gribble
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Location: Holset H221W
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:53 Post subject: |
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It depends on the cars spec ,most of em come with an immobilizer and an anti theft system . Do you have a flashing red light by the steering wheel ?
Thats the anti theft system which runs through a brown relay in the engine bay fuse box but it has no tie up with the engine ECU or R2 but having no history with that particular circuit I could be wrong there as its says J1-10 goes to the ign relay via the ECU
The immobilizer proper is a complex thing which does tie in with the ECU but I'm not sure it controls R2 . Its a chip in the key,a aerial ring round the key barrel and a separate ECU that lives up under the passenger side dash normally if its faulty it will flash the red check engine light at you at ign on .
Not much can be done to this system without a Tech 2 and the cars 4 digit security code .
You have not said what the problem is but lets say its a non runner and the R2 circuit wont work in if the brake light fuse is gone ,C14 in the drivers footwell .
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andywen8156
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Location: Port Talbot
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 12:38 Post subject: |
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| Gribble wrote: |
It depends on the cars spec ,most of em come with an immobilizer and an anti theft system . Do you have a flashing red light by the steering wheel ?
Thats the anti theft system which runs through a brown relay in the engine bay fuse box but it has no tie up with the engine ECU or R2 but having no history with that particular circuit I could be wrong there as its says J1-10 goes to the ign relay via the ECU
The immobilizer proper is a complex thing which does tie in with the ECU but I'm not sure it controls R2 . Its a chip in the key,a aerial ring round the key barrel and a separate ECU that lives up under the passenger side dash normally if its faulty it will flash the red check engine light at you at ign on .
Not much can be done to this system without a Tech 2 and the cars 4 digit security code .
You have not said what the problem is but lets say its a non runner and the R2 circuit wont work in if the brake light fuse is gone ,C14 in the drivers footwell . |
Many thanks Gribble I have swapped the relays over but no go.
Well I bought the car about 10 days ago it was running but now there is the red led flashing as you say only when I crank the engine. and no power to J3-2
The seller only had one key its looks just simple key as well
I have found the anti theft device in the middle under dash but will have a look for the immobilizer unit too
I had thought of taking the ant theft ecu out and just hard wiring to the relays for the starter and the ecm R2 via ign
Thanks also I have checked the brake lights they are okay and the fuse
I do have a short circuit somewhere as the tail lights blow the fuse all the time so goodness knows where the short is
Seems i may have to scrap the car as its not economical to get the tech 2 and coding
Again many thanks will update if I can by pass all the hurdles |
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Gribble
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Location: Holset H221W
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 13:48 Post subject: |
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Your getting it a bit mixed up there  The red light to the right of the steering wheel is the anti theft system and the red Check engine light in the middle of the dash is for the immobiliser . 2 seperate systems . The one by the wheel flashing when you crank over is ok to do that .
Check the brown relay by the blue relay is clicking when the key goes to ign on . Check the two earths in J3 have continuity
The anti theft ECU lives up behind the red light to the right of the wheel and the immobilizer ECU lives under the passenger dash.
If you try to bypass the immobilizer ECU it will see it as a theft attempt and shut down and it controls the injectors and the ropcv via the ECU and will need T2 to set it up again 
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andywen8156
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 15:37 Post subject: |
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| Gribble wrote: |
Your getting it a bit mixed up there The red light to the right of the steering wheel is the anti theft system and the red Check engine light in the middle of the dash is for the immobiliser . 2 seperate systems . The one by the wheel flashing when you crank over is ok to do that .
Check the brown relay by the blue relay is clicking when the key goes to ign on . Check the two earths in J3 have continuity
The anti theft ECU lives up behind the red light to the right of the wheel and the immobilizer ECU lives under the passenger dash.
If you try to bypass the immobilizer ECU it will see it as a theft attempt and shut down and it controls the injectors and the ropcv via the ECU and will need T2 to set it up again |
Hi Gtibble many thanks again for your time
I did the checks turn the ign on and yes the brown relay clicks also the immobilizer relay which is show top left corner clicks too
Checking the black cables in J3 there is some resistance say 30 ohms but seem they are no connected directly to earth one is the H1 and the other I am not sure?. Or is there other earth connections to the ecm? When I connect to chassis and to the J3 1 12 volts but on J3 2 no 12 also relay 2 is not clicking. But is relay 2 suppose to be energized all the time? I am not sure? do you get 12 volts on j3-2 with the ign on?
I did try to put a link between the contacts of R2 and the ecm just seem to be sending pulse ever few seconds to what seems to he the injectors is this the pre start fueling? So i removed the link and put the relay back in
When I turn the ign to on I can hear what seems the ecm is sending a pulse to the injectors its seems to come from that area its like a spring noise for a few seconds?
when I crank the check engine light it on the immobiliser light flashes
I did notice before that when it did start from cold the oil pressure was up even at cold but not its fully on the no pressure so I have cut the white wire but no she will not fire up or try too?
I have attached pictures of the relay/fuse box along with anti theft unit by the gear change
There is fuel as I have bleed the filter head air was in it so I have the rubber glove trick over it!
many thanks [img]http://s279.photobucket.com/user/andywen8156/library/1998%20trooper%203%20%20Diesel[/img] |
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andywen8156
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Location: Port Talbot
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andywen8156
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 15:44 Post subject: |
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| Sorry oh dear its as you say the anti=theft light that flashes when cranking |
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Gribble
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 17:29 Post subject: |
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Umm thats not anything anti theft thats the G sensor for the abs
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Gribble
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 17:31 Post subject: |
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Ah ,the dash gauge is nothing to do with the injection oil pressure
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andywen8156
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| Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 17:35 Post subject: |
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Yeah guess I could try the fault codes by making the link? do you think its an idea?
Oh its the abs? but? oh I thought it did not have abs fitted to this model oh dear seems its been mucked about with in the past anyway thanks for your help |
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andywen8156
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| Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:13 Post subject: |
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Just an update as may be others have the same problems?
I have charged the battery fully
It now starts and drives okay but takes about 20 mins before the engine is settled from cold from hot its fine
It only starts if the anti theft light its not flashing on cranking |
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lordcoleman
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Joined: 04 Mar 2023
Posts: 4
Location: Ja
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| Posted: Sat Mar 04, 2023 17:29 Post subject: |
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| Gribble wrote: |
Your getting it a bit mixed up there The red light to the right of the steering wheel is the anti theft system and the red Check engine light in the middle of the dash is for the immobiliser . 2 seperate systems . The one by the wheel flashing when you crank over is ok to do that .
Check the brown relay by the blue relay is clicking when the key goes to ign on . Check the two earths in J3 have continuity
The anti theft ECU lives up behind the red light to the right of the wheel and the immobilizer ECU lives under the passenger dash.
If you try to bypass the immobilizer ECU it will see it as a theft attempt and shut down and it controls the injectors and the ropcv via the ECU and will need T2 to set it up again |
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Hi, great advice, this is an old thread I know. My 4jx1 has problem with voltages at ECM J3 connection. Both the connections (coming from ignition relay 1 and 2) are at 12V even when relay #1 is removed from circuit!. I disconnected the power jack from the ECM and there is a short between the pole 1 and 2 on the ECM directly. If I test the power jack itself, power only arrives from relay# 1 and there is power only to connection #1. The ECM doesnt produce 5V, no start, seem ECM is not active. Any help? could this be the immobilizer? I have a remote key, no difference. I had fiddled with the ECM before while battery was connected I think i messed something up |
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lordcoleman
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Joined: 04 Mar 2023
Posts: 4
Location: Ja
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| Posted: Sat Mar 04, 2023 20:20 Post subject: |
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| lordcoleman wrote: |
| Gribble wrote: |
Your getting it a bit mixed up there The red light to the right of the steering wheel is the anti theft system and the red Check engine light in the middle of the dash is for the immobiliser . 2 seperate systems . The one by the wheel flashing when you crank over is ok to do that .
Check the brown relay by the blue relay is clicking when the key goes to ign on . Check the two earths in J3 have continuity
The anti theft ECU lives up behind the red light to the right of the wheel and the immobilizer ECU lives under the passenger dash.
If you try to bypass the immobilizer ECU it will see it as a theft attempt and shut down and it controls the injectors and the ropcv via the ECU and will need T2 to set it up again |
*************
Hi, great advice, this is an old thread I know. My 4jx1 has problem with voltages at ECM J3 connection. Both the connections (coming from ignition relay 1 and 2) are at 12V even when relay #1 is removed from circuit!. I disconnected the power jack from the ECM and there is a short between the pole 1 and 2 on the ECM directly. If I test the power jack itself, power only arrives from relay# 1 and there is power only to connection #1. The ECM doesnt produce 5V, no start, seem ECM is not active. Any help? could this be the immobilizer? I have a remote key, no difference. I had fiddled with the ECM before while battery was connected I think i messed something up |
Just an update, ive discovered that the ECM got hit. Im going ot post a picture fopr all to see what inside of a 4JX1 Electronic control module ECM schematic circuit looks like |
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