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Changing Injectors - Notes for First Timers - Thanks to Dan.


 
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wildata
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Joined: 19 Feb 2009
Posts: 104
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 16:01    Post subject: Changing Injectors - Notes for First Timers - Thanks to Dan. Reply with quote

Trooper 3.0 in Ireland - 2002 Model - Year is 2002 Mileage 75K on a
replacement Engine.

Hi Folks,
No:2 injector failed a couple of weeks ago.
Got a click test at one of the few ISUZU dealers left in Western Ireland.
Their experienced Trooper Mechanic had retired, and the young guy while very helpful
was not quite up to speed on Troopers. (He did not know there were different Grades of injectors.)
Decided to do this myself as I had a lot of bad experiences with Isuzu dealers in Ireland.
One lot stole my good injectors and replaced them with another set !
Not the Guys above who are honourable people.

A New set was fitted by Isuzu Importers (Harris) a couple or more years ago, after it was discovered the originals
have been removed on an Injector recall !!!!!!!!!!!!!

A Few things surprised me.
Firstly how "well" it runs with a cylinder down.
As I was getting parts from Trooper Dan I drove it for about a week on short drives.
While not right, it managed, and once over 2000 RPM it was Ok'ish.

The actual changing of the injector is not too bad.
Essential things are;
The Manual.......................
A Magnet tool, a little magnet on an extendible rod, but like a retractable car Ariel, for getting back dropped nuts, the Trooper has endless Nooks and Cranny's !
A good 27mm spanner flat ended so you can get a lever on it for the high pressure oil pipe,
or a "crow foot" Spanner. (A crow foot is a spanner with just the head of a spanner with a socket connecting square, about 2 inches long so you can
use a socket bar or ratchet to twist the thing)
An adjustable pliers / Pipe pliers, (we call them crocodile pliers) for releasing the intercooler clips.
A new rocker Cover Gasket for peace of mind.
Some sealant for the rocker cover gasket - (or go over to friend late at night and borrow)

The bits and pieces, cover, intercooler all come of pretty much as you would expect.
It is a bit of a shock to see four huge injectors, a large wiring loom, all inside the engine, along with loads of oil.
Be very, very careful when unclipping injector connectors, they are plastic, use a thin screwdriver, and lever the tabs back the barest minimum to free them.
Best not to work on an ice cold engine plastic is brittle when colder, so if you can, let it run for a few minutes beforeopening things up,
at the same time it must not be really hot either.

Thing to watch.
You need to drain the oil from the oil rail.
Also depressurise the fuel system as in the manual, we forgot !
The manual shows the oil rail with a nut at the end, we foolishly loosened this thinking it was the drain.
This is not the drain.
The drain is UNDER the oil rail at the front it is a big silvery 19mm nut, there is an "O" ring on it, it is very easy to drop either the nut or
possibly the O ring. In our case it stayed stuck to the nut.
Put a pit of paper sheet under it, because as you loosen it off, and the oil flows suddenly as it comes out fully, it is easy to drop, we did and got it back with a magnet,
and a bit of a struggle to get in again.

When you have the drain open there is a problem getting the oil out, as the engine tilts back !
We opened it and Jacked the back of the 4x4 up, to tilt it to get the oil out.
You need to jack the 4x4 up a lot, under the rear diff, and you need a really decent trolley jack with the front wheels securely chocked.
We had the back wheels 2 foot in the air to get it high enough.

The injectors are held to the rail with 2 hex bolts.
Watch these, make sure you have a top quality hex socket, mine were a bit mashed by some previous messer.
Got such fright when one started to slip. We got it in the end by pressing in the Hex socket really hard and jockeying it loose.
When we had them just ready to take off we used the magnet, they are small and must not go down into the engine.

These injectors need a bit of levering to come up, we used open end of a large open ended spanner on its side to lever them, they have a metal collar, note the Head of the injector will twist round,
but this is just the cover twisting.
Use the spanner on its side (needs to be thin) between the rail and that collar. You might also need to add pipe as a lever (or put a bigger ring spanner as an additional lever) on the end of your spanner to rock / move them.
Just start levering, they will start to rock a bit, keep rocking -  use strong steady pressure and it will pop up.

In my case the seat/sleeve that the injector it goes into was pretty cleanish, we used a bit of hard plastic pipe 4mm (bit like a long pencil/straw)
With lint free rag and then ear buds taped on with gaffer tape to get it clinically clean, and a little wipe with alcohol made it grease free.
You can use the "straw" to drop down the copper seal and position it before you replace the injector.
It popped in easily with a hard hand tap to seat it.
After that it is just put back on the H clamp, tighten to torque 22, release and torque again 18.
How accurate torque wrenches are at 22 and 18 lbs is a thought.

Rocker cover.
Apparently this needs  a bit of sealant at the back, front, and where the
loom joins (plastic Block) on the passenger side of the engine.

Rocker cover 10 mm bolts..
Mine were over tightened badly by the previous messer, foolishly I set the torque wrench to .9Nm and handed
it to young assistant to put them back, one of the side ones snapped, probably weakened before, luckily right at the bolt head so it is probably removable.
In any event filled the hole with sealant, as we wanted to test the Engine any way. It did not leak so there for next time. Squeak.
Would have been in trouble if it was a corner one.

After that it takes a good few turns on start to build up the pressure, then 4x4 fired up fine.
We started up with just the Rocker Cover on and the High Pressure oil pipe connected, to check it ran, and for any leaks
before we bolted all the rest back.
Make sure nothing can get in the exposed turbo if you start it this way...............

Now watching oil levels like a hawk, as I am aware that the Injectors are torqued in pairs, and I only changed one.

Old injectors should be clean and shiny except for the very tips that are exposed to the cylinder when the engine runs.
If not there has been another issue as well, copper washer not seated or leaking sleeves.

Finally a big Thank You to Trooper Dan, who was so very good with getting the parts, and patient advice and handholding.
Thank You again Dan.

Any one doing this for the first time PM me and I would phone you and talk you through it.

This forum is a the only way I could keep and maintain my Trooper, thanks to all
for the help over the years.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 16:01    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
Posts: 513
Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 22:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

I too have a 2002 Trooper with a 4JX1 engine - and also had to replace one bad Injector!

As a general note to those facing this task - DON'T panic if you get lubricating oil flowing into one or more cylinders, as you remove the Injectors! It's remarkable EASY to get the oil out again! Just put a piece of plastic tubing into the Injector-hole and suck it out with a rubber-bulb, or even your mouth! You can then check that it's DRY by putting a twist of tissue-paper in through the same hole - when it comes out clean - you're FINISHED!

In general, replacing the Injectors is a remarkably EASY job! It's well worth doing if you DO have that SHAKING GEAR-LEVER - which shows you have one cylinder NOT functioning!
_________________
2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc.
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TrooperDan
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Joined: 01 Mar 2010
Posts: 2337
Location: Near York, E Yorks

PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 7:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pleasure  Smile
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POPPIX
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Joined: 23 Oct 2010
Posts: 1
Location: Philippines

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 14:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

@browndoff when you say shaking vear lever, does it include when tbe lever is in D or R or not neccessarily?

Thankyou in advance
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eithan h
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
Posts: 8195
Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 18:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

it won't shake on an auto so don't worry about that bit
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