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Welsh Warrior *
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 14 Location: Wales
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 17:26 Post subject: 51 Plate 3.0d Trooper Non start with previous issues HELP |
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Hi Guys
Looking for some help.
The old girl had a few issue's with injectors they got done 5 times on recall last set had a new ecu thanks isuzu.
The 4 sets seemed to get to 999 miles and back to limp. The last set lasted with the new ecu. A few years ago it started being a pain to start like on a cold morning and would take a while to worm up. I thought injectors again. Phoned isuzu they said it cant be done on recall as it was over due. They said try doing a service change all filters.
Well i did that wont start at all... found the tank was leaking... Arhhh "AiR" ok replaced tank yesterday this is maybe 3 years the old girl been standing now.
Put 20 litres in tank and filled fuel filter put everything back together and pumped the plunger a few times undid the 10mm on the side of the plunger housing got air out. Repeated this but no fuel... Hummmm this is where i'm stuck. Is there a pump that pumps to the filter or does it suck from the filter.
Also how do i get fuel and air out is it the 10mm on the filter housing.
Would appreciate as much input as possible before making a decision on have a 3.1 fitted.
Welsh Warrior. |
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 17:26 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 19:51 Post subject: |
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yes it sucks through the filter and yes undo the 10mm bolt and pump the primer, it is a common fault on the 3.0l that the primer stops working and it can also suck air through the primer as well so you might still have an issue with it. |
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Welsh Warrior *
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 14 Location: Wales
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 20:11 Post subject: |
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If i took the plunger out and put an inline pump in just to get it running would it be ok do you think. Im trying to make sure its not the injectors as its stuck in my head. |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 20:15 Post subject: |
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Hmmmmm - "pumped the plunger a few times undid the 10mm on the side of the plunger housing and got air out" How many times is 'a few'?? It's rather a LONG way back to the tank and really quite a SMALL pipeline - so it takes a fair bit of manual pumping to PRIME the pump. That's why they call that little plunger the fuel PRIMER.
The other possibility is that, in replacing the Tank - the fuel-lines might now be wrongly connected...? The connector at the Filter nearest the Bulkhead - is actually the line which goes OUT [to the Fuel-Pump on the side of the Engine-Block] - the one nearest the headlights comes FROM the Tank. If the lines were crossed, you could pump forever and get no fuel!
At the risk of teaching 'Granny' how to suck eggs.......don't forget to close the 10mm nut when you DO get fuel - otherwise it'll let the air in again! _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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Welsh Warrior *
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 14 Location: Wales
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 20:41 Post subject: |
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All lines were marked with tape so no crossed lines. |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 21:36 Post subject: |
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If you wanted to prove there was nothing ELSE wrong - then I'd run a gravity-feed directly into the Fuel-Pump - but be aware that the flow-rate is much higher than the fuel-USAGE - so a small tank would empty quickly [with most of the fuel running down the return-line into the main tank].
You would, of course, still have to get your 'normal' fuel-line working properly - so, really, it IS best to start by getting THAT right! _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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Welsh Warrior *
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 14 Location: Wales
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 21:44 Post subject: |
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Got to the point of fuel coming from 10mm bolt tried starting no good tried 3 down hillllllllllllllll jump starts no good. Phoned the local dealer straight to work shop techy (first name terms) said cut white wire that runs to rail its a confusion for the ecu tells it there is pressure or something tried again to start no good so booked it in for a diagnostic on the 28th find out one way or another whats what. |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 21:58 Post subject: |
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In the meantime, why not try the On-Board-Diagnostic system? There's a 16-pin plug under the console-cover down by the clutch-pedal specifically for connecting to the Tech2 [or similar Data Readers] and one can get some diagnoses by just shorting pin#6 to #4 and then turning ON the ignition. The Check-Engine light will flash error-codes representing the current problem causing your car not to run - see the PDF Manual. If you have not yet got the PDF Manual for the Isuzu Trooper, then download it from Trooper PDF Manual. In it you'll find detailed instructions on this. So, say DTC 31 would be gap 3 flashes, short gap, 1 flash, gap then the next code. Page 6E-54 of the PDF Manual shows a list explaining the codes.
If nothing else, it will help you to get to understand the car! _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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Welsh Warrior *
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 14 Location: Wales
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 22:19 Post subject: |
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Thanks buddy ill have a look at that sounds interesting |
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Welsh Warrior *
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 14 Location: Wales
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Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 1:59 Post subject: |
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What page are the codes on please my eyes have gone square looking |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:00 Post subject: |
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The engine-fault-codes are on page 54 of chapter 6E [written on the top of the page] - as I told you already - which, depending on the version of of the PDF Manual, would be page #1947 [written on the bottom of the page]. _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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Gribble *******
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 8448 Location: Holset H221W
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Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:03 Post subject: |
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Or - post the codes up on here and it will get converted. _________________ 2 New Troopers ! |
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Welsh Warrior *
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 14 Location: Wales
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Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 14:18 Post subject: |
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Hi guys just check code from flashing light got 63 back.
P0192 63 Rail Pressure Sensor Low Voltage ON
P0193 63 Rail Pressure Sensor High Voltage ON
what next any help appreciated.
Warrior. |
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Browndoff *****
Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Posts: 513 Location: Dublin 13, Ireland
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 0:20 Post subject: |
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Next you must try the magical White-Wire trick. There are several ways this can be done:- [1] you could actually sever the wire leading to 'C' connector on the 10-pin-connector, down by the Oil-Filler-Tube - but then you'd have the task of rejoining it later. [2] you could disconnect it by drawing the metal connector 'C' out of the plastic connector-plug. That's difficult to DO - but it's 'safe' and 'harmless' - easily reversed! [3] You could make up a connector-loom to join the 2-halves of the 10-pin-connector - and simply pull out the connector for 'C' to do the test. THAT'S how I did it myself - it had the advantage that no 'permanent' harm was done to any part of the wiring-system and I used the same wiring-loom to test my Injectors. [4] You could actually sever the wire leading to J2-7 connector [that's the middle plug on top of the ECM] - but then you'd have the task of rejoining it later.
In each of these test-methods, you're temporarily disconnecting the ORPS from the ECM - so the ECM sees a ZERO-Volts signal from the ORPS - which it interprets as MAXIMUM Oil-Pressure in the Oil-Rail. This persuades the ECM to fire the injectors, so [if there really IS enough pressure there], the engine fires and will run - but NOT properly - this IS just a test!
IF the engine DOES fire up - you've proven that the ORPS really WAS at fault and you need to replace it.
If it DOES NOT fire-up then, whatever about the ORPS being faulty [it STILL might be!] but you also have the problem that the REAL oil-pressure in the Rail is TOO LOW to fire the Injectors - so you would THEN have to take out the RPCV and clean it. That will usually fix it - but you MIGHT have to replace it. _________________ 2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc. |
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Welsh Warrior *
Joined: 24 Sep 2012 Posts: 14 Location: Wales
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 0:44 Post subject: |
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Tried the white wire thing nothing non start.
What is the RPCV , where will i find it and whats it look like please.
Warrior |
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