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no start 3 ltr

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Joined: 07 Jun 2014
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Location: Adelaide SA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:36    Post subject: no start 3 ltr Reply with quote

Ok

have been reading the forum

P0192 63 Rail Pressure Sensor Low Voltage ON
P0193 63 Rail Pressure Sensor High Voltage ON

so i pulled out the white wire   No 7  blue plug,  and still no start.

i have fule at the filter 10mm nut,  and fule at the 17mm dome nut

checked the fuses and i have brake lights

diconected the batterys over night,  now i have no error codes  but still no start

thanks in advance


so what should i be looking at next?   thanks in advance
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 7:36    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 11:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

orcv would be my next thing to look at, theres a how to guide at the start of the forum
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 12:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok   this is the valve  oil thing under the rocker cover.

my understanding is that with the white wire   disconected   j2-7
this tricks the ecu into thinking fule is ok and she would fire up.

disconected and no fire.
i also tryed swaping back to the original  j2-22  wich was replaced by the dealer
which is when the issue started,  no power then no start


or am i wrong?
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 12:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

you are wrong thats the orps, the orcv is on the hpop check out the how to guide
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 13:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry  looked every where,  and i can not see the orcv sticky,  any one got a link?
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 14:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think there is a sticky on this ( Gribble did a walk through somewhere) but it is often called RPCV or ROPCV so searching on that should help
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Twister
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 18:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just found Gribble's post on this and made it a sticky in the Engine section  Wink

http://www.itocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17267
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Last edited by Twister on Sat Jun 07, 2014 18:56; edited 1 time in total
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 18:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah well done i was just looking for that!
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Twister
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 18:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just taken me half an hour to find it. Could have sworn it was already a sticky  Rolling Eyes
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 19:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah i'm sure i made it a sticky but hey ho it's back now lol
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 1:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys

I had found pictures  on striping it and cleaning.  But was actually unsure where the dam this was.
reference to it in the manual is vague at best.

so  now i believe its horizontally mounted into the back of the oil pump
and you can not see it until you pull battery, filter,  some other thing on the manifold and a few other bits and peaces that you can push out of the way.

I wish it was a 200-300 tdi or td5 LR,  just because I know,  even though I run an iconic 4bd1 in a 110, these transition injected diesels are all different in application, like my EPIC transit   sheeeesh.  You either Know or you don’t. And in Australia the dealers don’t


Anyway  I know what I am doing on Monday ( public holiday here)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 3:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok  after many trials in getting the orcv valve off.  purchased a 29mm  then ground the ring thiner to get the bebevl off.

cleaned and reinstaled,   apart from a smear of carbon it looked all ok inside.

but the problem remains,  still no start.

where do i look next?
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 9:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you tried the extra 2 litres of oil over the max mark? then you need to check for a cam and crank signal
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 11:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok  can do the oil, add 2 ltrs.  though i did crank it over with the valve out,  and there was some oil evident.

how do i check the crank and cam signals

i asume the crank angle sensor is the one on the front
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 11:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

no thats the cam sensor ideally you need a oscilloscope but if you got a decent multimeter it might pick up the small change in voltage at the ecu on the signal wire
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