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3.0 Trooper starting/running issues!!


 
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Ian.G
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Joined: 08 Jun 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 20:32    Post subject: 3.0 Trooper starting/running issues!! Reply with quote

Help please!!!
My missus was driving it on friday and called me a couple times to say it wasn't running its usual self, i never really listened to her as she never really drives it and is heavily pregnant with a head full of mince!!
She then said it was cutting out on her at junctions etc, i told her to give it a run round the city bypass and see if it would clear, once she got home it idled fine.
We got in the car that night and started right away however died within seconds, would not restart and eventually run the battery down. Its never been brilliant at starting to be honest hence cranking it for about a minute with no luck!
Charged battery a bit today, changed fuel filter and primed including loosning the 10mm bolt on filter housing, still not firing. Towed it while in 2nd gear and kept pumping throttle, eventually burst into life.
It then cut out before getting the rope off, wouldn't restart so bump started again and tried keeping revs up, only lasted 10 seconds or so before cutting out.
Repeated this a few times, eventually got rope off and drove about a mile keeping revs up but again it died!!
I have now dumped it at my work where i towed it to but bump started it again on the way and left it idling until we got to work. After a minute or so it cut out and wouldn't restart!!!
Its a 2002 model
Sorry about the long story but any help would be much appreciated

Regards

Ian
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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
Posts: 513
Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 22:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always do the Onboard-Diagnostics - before trying ANY solution to any problem! That's connect #4 to #6 on the 16-pin lug beneath the central console-cover down by the clutch-pedal. It won't ALWAYS show any relevant problem - but it IS the place to start!

YOUR car's symptoms sounds like the beginning-of-the-end for your ORPS. It works in tandem with the ROPCV to get the right Oil-Pressure for the Fuel-Injectors. If either one is faulty [even part-time!], the engine will cut-out  - just like yours is doing! You COULD start by removing the ROPCV and cleaning it thoroughly [see standard sticky on this] and see if it improves the behaviour - you might be lucky! If that doesn't do the job, then you'd need a Data Reader to prove the ORPS was at fault - otherwise it's just buy one and hope it's the solution!
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2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc.
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Ian.G
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Joined: 08 Jun 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 22:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Browndoff,
Many thanks for the help, i see lots of suggestions regarding the oprs, apparently i can cut the white wire and try that?
I thought i would put as much info as poss with my symptoms and hoped someone would say yeah its the orps!
I ain't got access to any code readers etc at the moment but will take your advice that you have kindly given!
Should i try cutting this wire? If so where exactly is the plug i'm looking for?
Many thanks

Ian
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crusader
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Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 411
Location: Kent

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 6:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

White wire is the middle cable on the back row of the injector plug by the dipstick.  It yellows with age. You can use a small driver to flick it out of the housing. Make a good joint if you cut it. Don't drive too far without sorting if it starts.
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Ian.G
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Joined: 08 Jun 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks crusader, I'll give this a shot this afternoon
Many thanks
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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
Posts: 513
Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 10:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't succeed with 'slipping-out' the white/yellow cable from the 10-pin connector [down by the Dipstick], DON'T cut the wire there! The same cable leads up to the ECM at J2-7 [that's the middle connector on top of the ECM], THAT'S a safer place to 'cut-and-re-join' than down at the Dipstick where there's vibration, etc. to make a good connection difficult.
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2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc.
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Ian.G
Newbie


Joined: 08 Jun 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 17:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again guys,
Thanks again to you both for the advice, after chopping wire 7 and giving the fuel another prime it has started and currently idling.!
Next question is can I drive it and how far? It's got the recall for injectors and the local dealer has been chasing me to book it in as they have gone down the tubes and close their doors in 3 weeks!!
It looks like they will have to do the job anyway?
Thanks again
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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
Posts: 513
Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 20:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the wire cut or disconnected, the ECM gets a Zero-Volts signal at J2-7, so it thinks the pressure is AT MAXIMUM - so it tries to signal the ROPCV to reduce it when the pedal is NOT being pressed down flat.

That means that the 'normal' series of actions required to run the engine - AND CONTROL ITS SPEED - does NOT work!! I don't really know if you could get it to 'limp' down to the garage - but it certainly can't work properly without the ORPS. It would certainly be safer to TOW IT to the dealers for this booked-in service.
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2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc.
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eithan h
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
Posts: 8195
Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 22:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

err yes they do browndoff it is possible to drive the vehicle but its not recommended due to the ecu thinking theres to much pressure so it will inject the wrong amount of fuel, you will still have a throttle and it will drive albeit a bit lumpy when pulling away
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Ian.G
Newbie


Joined: 08 Jun 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 13:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again guys,
Could you please help advise what to do after replacing orps, I have found someone with tech 2 but he is not familiar with the orps and what needs reset/adapted/etc!
Many thanks again

Ian
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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
Posts: 513
Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 15:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the Tech2 to work in your car, it must have in it an Isuzu-Compatible Data Card [ Isuzu-K 11.640 data-card 1999 - 2013] - so check THAT first. Then it's a fairly straightforward matter of following the On-Screen menus until you get to reset the ORPS.

The REASON for this exercise is simple, the ECM reads pressure in the Rail from the voltage coming back to the ECM from the ORP Sensor. For the 'same' pressure, the voltage might be different between your OLD ORPS and the replacement unit - so you have to SET the ECM to read Zero Pressure with the Tech2.

You must first create the ZERO-PRESSURE, by slightly opening the 27mm nut on the HP-Oil-Pipe. It WILL cause a temporary leak - and a bit of a mess - but it IS essential! You MUST release any residual pressure in the HP-Oil-Rail - or the re-set to ZERO is nonsense!

If you HAVE NOT re-started the car since the replacement of the ORPS [and the strip-down required for that] - then this loosening of the 27mm nut won't be necessary - as the engine won't have had any chance to raise the oil-pressure since you stripped it.
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2002 LWB Trooper 3.0L
I've done some major repairs, including replacing half-shaft, replacing fuel-injectors etc.
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Gribble
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
Posts: 8448
Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 18:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does that tell the OP how to find the orps reset menu on T2 then ?
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kennymac
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Joined: 13 May 2006
Posts: 507
Location: Argyll, Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 18:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gribble wrote:
Does that tell the OP how to find the orps reset menu on T2 then ?


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