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Starts great from cold but wont start from hot - 3.0 Trooper


 
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Scottishclaire
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Joined: 02 May 2009
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 22:45    Post subject: Starts great from cold but wont start from hot - 3.0 Trooper Reply with quote

Hi people

I have always come here for help and have never been disappointed.  So, here goes with my recent issues with my 2001 3.0 Citation LW Trooper.   Has had recent new injectors, new clutch and dmf.  Some corroded fuel pipes have been replaced.    New glow plugs have been fitted with the exception of one which has broken in situ.   Our mechanic tells us the stuck one ain't going anywhere.  So, with all this work done, the car now starts great from cold.  However, if you run the car for any period of time, stop, shut the engine down, nip into Tesco for a quick shop and come back, the motor won't start.   You have to leave it until it cools down completely before it will start again, and again it will start off the button.    Diagnostics have told me that the fuel and oil pressures are perfect both hot and cold and yet no one can work it out why it won't start from hot.   Its getting to the stage where you can't go and fuel the motor without planning to sit at the pumps for half an hour!  

Any help, suggestions, assistance, boxes of matches would be greatly appreciated

Cheers
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ladydriver
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Joined: 30 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Worcestershire

PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 0:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Failing ORPS symptoms, do the white wire test when it next won't start to confirm this as the culprit, search on the forum for the way to do that, there will be plenty of references to it.
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JDW
1999 3.0l Citation SWB
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Scottishclaire
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Joined: 02 May 2009
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 21:50    Post subject: Starting from hot issues Reply with quote

Hi Ladydriver.

Thanks for your prompt response.  I had my mechanic try the white wire test today - didn't work.  He did say the loom was full of oil which would indicate a faulty pressure switch??  

Now we have snow and lots of it!  Could do with the motor back even for that.  

Do you think my boy is right?

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ladydriver
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Posts: 327
Location: Worcestershire

PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 0:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

The loom has been known to cause the oil to travel along it by capillary action but that in itself doesn't mean the sensor is faulty.  Clean the plug/socket out as best you can and see if that makes any difference as an oil filled plug has sometimes been associated with funny running.  There is an historic post on here where a member made a drain for the injector loom plug but I can't find it.
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JDW
1999 3.0l Citation SWB
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Gribble
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Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 20:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have diagnostics that can show fuel and oil pressures it should show you whats not right when the car won't start .

Now lets guess its a tech 2 machine so when its a no start situation it must be one of the variables or a code would be stored .

That could be the crank sensor is not reading the counts until the engine cools a bit so is 185 to 200 rpm being shown when cranking over . ?

Oil injection pressure has to be 3.5 mpa when cranking over or its a no start . Maybe the rail oil pressure control valve is sticking ,again this will show on tech 2 as a low pressure like 1.5mpa .

So lets guess there is a crank signal and injection oil pressure (not the one on the dash ) and the tech 2 is showing injectors enabled then its going to be fuel which is oil school fault finding for nearly all mechanics .

Thats 3 assumptions I've made so need to hide from robbo . Smile
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Red Robbo
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Joined: 17 Feb 2008
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Location: Where ever I happen to be in my imagination but mainly Far East Sussex

PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 15:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gribble wrote:
Thats 3 assumptions I've made so need to hide from robbo . Smile


That's ok I'm at it as well    Wink

(Good logic BTW  Cool )
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