Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

Shadow · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 12:03 Post subject: Lower Balljoint Problem

I recently bought an Isuzu Bighorn Lotus edition initially for the engine to put into my existing Bighorn, however it seemed to be too good to just use for parts so I put it in for an MoT and all it failed on was an ineffective horn and split rubber on the lower wishbone balljoint on the passenger side.

I have bought the new balljoint and set about the job. All the nuts/bolts came undone easily but I cannot get the balljoint to come out of the hub carrier. I have tried heat, two balljoint splitters which have both bent and also a ten ton hydraulic puller all with no success.

Has anyone ever had this problem and can anyone think of a possible solution before I either set fire to it or sell the bloody thing?

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d12 · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 13:08 Post subject:

There's a few good posts , if you do a quick search on main page , good one there about putting jack under Ball hoing and hitting with big hammer !
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96 3.1 bighorn lwb ,widetrack

Shadow · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 13:16 Post subject:

I tried that too!

Rhanagar · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 14:36 Post subject:

If you pop the tie rod from the steering knuckle and remove the assembly, I have found that really stubborn ones can be removed by hitting the knuckle on the outside radius with a lump hammer a good few very heavy whacks. Then with the nut on the end of the threads of the ball joint hit it as hard as you can pops it.
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1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Shadow · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 14:51 Post subject:

I thought about taking the whole lot off to get to it easier, but even the steering joint didn't want to separate. Not even tried the top balljoint yet as I'm guessing it will be much the same.

I was thinking of just swapping the complete assembly from the black vehicle I have, but doing anything seems to be very hard work just now. Still recovering after being knocked off my motorbike at the start of February.

Rhanagar · Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 15:51 Post subject:

The top ball joint is usually easy to pop. I haven't had an issue with them to date. It is the lower one that complains. The steering one I tend to undo the nut until its almost off. Then whack the knuckle around it, then whack the nut. Tends to give up after that.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

Grandad · ******* Joined: 22 Sep 2005 Posts: 1902 Location: NORFOLK

the quickest way to remove is use the grinder with cutting disc and cut the ball off level at the top then use the cutting torch blow the middle out be careful not to cut into the upright
15 mins max

Grandad · ******* Joined: 22 Sep 2005 Posts: 1902 Location: NORFOLK

the quickest way to remove is use the grinder with cutting disc and cut the ball off level at the top then use the cutting torch blow the middle out be careful not to cut into the upright
15 mins max

Grandad · ******* Joined: 22 Sep 2005 Posts: 1902 Location: NORFOLK

the taper bit thats left from one I did earlier

gt-nick · Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:59 Post subject:

hi there,

did you have any sucsess at getting the ball joint off,...??

Retro Pedro · *** Joined: 04 May 2010 Posts: 242 Location: South East

Just for another option to others, what about the syncrenised double hammer timed to a tune?
Loosening off the crown nut but leaving in situ. Jacked up the truck and support with a decent axle stand under the chassis or other safe/solid position away from the working area. Then trolley jack up under the bottom ball joint and lift it slightly higher so that the weight of the truck is on the trolley jack but the axle stand is still in place to catch the weight when the ball joint releases. We're only talking about 1/2 inch max here. Then when ready with the truck weight on the ball joint syncrenised hitting with 2 heavy lump hammers on the hub where the ball joint goes up through. Couple of soft thumps then a good hard thump, hence doing it to tune to help get the timing right. Don't ask me what tune because I'm sure you're getting the idea. When I done mine a couple of syncrenised thumps done the trick. For obvious reasons work from the side and definitely not underneath, even if you could. All this after a bit of releasing spray/WD40 allowed to soak in and of course with the nuts undone underneath the ball joint.

sbrad · * Joined: 17 Oct 2016 Posts: 16 Location: Italia

I'll have to do even this replacement work lower ball joint.
I am sure that I will also extraction problems, there is some video showing the work to be done?

The original replacement (genuine ISUZU) costs very much !! in Italy the complete set (2 lower and 2 upper balljoints) costs about 300 €
Wanting to choose a commercial parts, I saw that there are many brands that produce this article and at different prices (from € 10 to € 40 a piece). among the many which is the best brand name to choose?

thank you
Stephen

drew m · *** Joined: 08 Nov 2015 Posts: 154 Location: falkirk

Hi
If you buy blueprint you will be fine in my opinion, delphi, or mayle also work for me.

chugg · * Joined: 20 Jan 2014 Posts: 11 Location: Chester

moog are good. £20 each.

might be easier for us to buy them and post them to you in Italy.

sbrad · * Joined: 17 Oct 2016 Posts: 16 Location: Italia

MOOG found them here in Italy (from Germany stock provenance) at about the same price as reported by Chugg.
But of course ... too much price difference with the original, I do not think Mom ISUZU factory ball joints, would be curious to know which home provides these parts for ISUZU which then provides to put the mark ... maybe TRW or HERT BUSS unless directly MONROE