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CHECK ENGINE light, cut off and starting issues on 4JX1...

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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 14:28    Post subject: CHECK ENGINE light, cut off and starting issues on 4JX1... Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

I’ve read topics on this forum many times before and I always found it very useful, thanks to members’ contributions.

I now have a serious problem with my 4JX1 2003 Trooper Auto, unfortunately. Therefore, I would be grateful if you guys could help me source the issue(s) with the beast.

I’ve owned the Trooper for more than 2 years now and it’s always been like a dream. BTW, it’s not my third one, the previous ones were 4JG2 3.1s…

Here’s the latest story… We drove to Morocco in July (2500 km) from north of France and had awesome trouble-free motoring all the way through. I serviced the car before the trip with good brand 5W30 engine oil and filter. Once in Morocco, and after completing 500 more km, I took it to the local Isuzu dealer and had it fully serviced, this time including a genuine new fuel filter. The mechanic suggested I’d use 10W40 engine oil instead as the heat there was hot (39°C), so I did. The car run perfectly for a week or so until it started failing to start. It only fired after a few attempts (4-5 times). I got on with it until time came to drive back to France, end of August. It’s important to mention that in between, the brake light started to come on after I’d press the brake pedal. It would stay on for a while and then go off, and so on. I did have new sets of front and rear brake pads done upon arrival in Morocco BTW. The brake fluid level seems correct, up to the MAX mark with no evidence of leaks. Still, the brake light comes on and off.

Despite the starting problem, when it did start, it run perfectly. But, the big problem started on our way back to France, in Spain, near Burgos, so we’d driven more than 1300 km. While on the highway, at a speed of around 70 to 80 m/h, the A/T OIL TEMP and CHECK ENGINE lights came on together, so I stopped a mile away at a petrol station. After the engine cooled down, I checked the oil level and found it was a little under the middle of the gauge. So, I bought one litre of 10W40 oil and topped it up. Waited a couple of hours, then started as normal and off we go. But then the check engine light came on each time I was driving uphill, and only uphill, otherwise it wouldn’t come on. In Burgos, north of Spain, I pulled at a local garage and they carried out an oil and filter change with 5W30 oil. Drove off, and after about 600 km the engine cut off uphill on the motorway in France. It did it a few times until it eventually would not start at all. If I’d leave the engine to cool down, it would start for 10 minutes and then cut off. Unfortunately, that was the end of the journey and we had to leave the Trooper in place, rent a vehicle and go home.

After 10 days or so, I went back to where I left the Trooper to get it recovered home. But a friend of mine suggested we find a garage and get it tested on a Tech-II. We managed to tow the Trooper to some local garage and they did put it on a computer, but it wasn’t a Tech-II. So, they found error codes B0011, B0015, B0017, B0025 and B0026. The car did start even before putting on the computer thing, but I wasn’t keen on driving it. The mechanic deleted the codes and unplugged the Throttle body sensor. We did a test drive at 50 m/h for about 10 km (6 miles) and the check engine only came on at the speed of 80 m/h. But because he couldn’t do anything more than that, he suggested I could may be drive home at 50 m/h. And so, I did and got home safely. I’ve just tried to drive over 80 today but the check engine light comes on straight away. At idle, when I press the gas pedal, the light comes on when the engine reaches 3000 rpm. It does start fine though, but light comes on as mentioned and brake light comes on too when I press the brake pedal and release it.

What are your thoughts please? What do you suggest, suspect? Thank you all for reading my so long story and for any help that you can bring.

What I suspect are the following:

1) 10W40 oil may not be suitable even under hot weather conditions (?)
2) Original Isuzu fuel filter was meant to fit a 7.5 t truck though is perfectly fitting the 4jx1 and has same size and same gasket (?)
3) Diesel fuel quality in Spain (?) Was running perfect with high quality diesel in Morocco…

The tank is half full and still mixed with diesel from Repsol (Spain) and Total Excellium from France.

P.P. BTW, thank you eithan for trying to help me over the phone, your help is much appreciated while I was stuck in the middle of nowhere! I will pop around Witney as soon as I can for thorough check up!
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 14:28    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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eithan h
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Location: oxfordish

PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 14:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

can you bridge pins 4 and 6 in the diagnostic plug then put the ignition on and count the flashes on the check engine light
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 16:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that quick reply! I will do as soon as the rain stops as trooper parked a bit far down the road. Will update.
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 18:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry no chance to test yet as still raining cats and dogs in here, will hopefuly update tomorrow
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 11:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morning eithan, weather much better today, had a look at the diag plug but cannot figure out which pins to bridge because I can't see any numbers down there. Let's say ie if I hold the plug "upwards" (meaning the narrower side up), where should I start from to count the pins numbers, bearing in mind there are 2 rows of pins? Cheers
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 18:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found plug pins order so did the 4-6 bridge trick for 1"30.

The CHECK ENGINE light flashes as follows within 1"30sec:

Numbers of flash counts:

1
1
3
3
4
3
6
3
7
3
3
1
4
3
1

then, ignition off. did it again and same sequences. Any thoughts?
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 20:38    Post subject: Reply with quote



it's to do with the spacing i can't work those out and they should repeat 3 times i think before going on to the next code
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 21:47    Post subject: Reply with quote

may be i'm wrong somewhere, i took a video and will look at it closely, otherwise will do it again tmr and see if i can understand the flash stages and link them with digits. So, basicly, if i understand, from your diagram, 1 flash equals 1 digit, and there should be 2 digits out from each stage? ie: three flashes = 3 , two flashes = 2 so that's "32"?
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 12:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hopefuly, error codes retrieved!

Here's the sequence that repeats within a 3"5 min time frame after two brief flashes:

Two brief flashes (11) and then: 34 43 63 74 31 43

this repeats as above within that time frame (99.99% sure) completed several times.

thanks for your time eithan
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 18:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

34=map sensor circuit
43=crank sensor out of synchro
63=rail oil pressure sensor
74=throttle position sensor
31=egr vsv circuit

so the egr and throttle position and map won't cause non start but the crank out of synchro will and the orps. orps can be tested by the white wire trick and when it won't start watch the check engine light, it should go out when you start cranking but if it flashes once at you then goes out theres an issue with the ecu not seeing the cam and crank at the same time. this can either be a bad sensor or it's losing the signal from the timing ring on the back of the flywheel which is usually down to wear on the thrust bearings for the crank shaft and is a major job to do.
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 20:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

many thanks for the info! that crank sensor scrares me though, if ever it was the signal.
the engine does start fine, i have a shaking engine a minute or so after start but stabilises afterwards and idle sounds "good" to me.
when i rev it up to 3000 rpm, then i can feel a rattle/knock as if the engine misses and the check engine comes on straight away. this rattle/knock is brief and to me seems to come from underneath the gearbox lever as this one shakes, so i thought to myself it might be the flywheel...

if i replace the sensors (crank, map and throttle position sensors first) would i need a thech 2 to calibrate them? i want to give it a try and see how it goes.
if it ever happens to be the flywheel thing, i will then get in touch for a quote and bring it over (you're the nearest specialist to where i am lol)

will let you when i get the new sensors and fit 'em

thanks again for your tim and advice
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 20:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i meant "will let you know" obviously... where's the edit button??
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 20:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

no tech2 needed for those ones, the knock maybe the signal coming and going which makes the injectors inject funny, it's all fixable it just depends if you want to pay for a bottom end strip and rebuild as most people buy another engine
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2018 21:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just managed to locate the CKP sensor. Gave me a headache though as couldn't spot it till i got to look at the "manual", which i finaly found after a long internet search...never too late to grow up  Laughing

So i found that b****dy ckp sensor hidden at the back of the engine (o/s) and the only way i thought i could get to it was to empty the engine oil and remove the oil filter. Next step is try and get to it if i can, or i'd probably have to remove the exhaust pipes that are in the way to gain more access.

I've disassembled the throttle body only to find it clogged and the TPS sensor was full of black oily thing inside. I've undone both sensors (i guess the big black bit on the right of the throttle body is  a sensor too, but not quite sure). All parts are now clean and shiny "as new", butterfly is now spot on and mechanism moves freely. Removed also the EGR valve which was also clogged. Some oil dropped on removal, i wonder if that's normal. EGR piston now moves freely and seems to be working, blowing air when depressed.

All sensors, including CAM sensor (the one in the front) are now ordered, except the ORPS. Dunno if i should get an isuzu one or may be a chinese one will do the job??

eithan, can you explain me what you mean by getting the bottom end split and rebuilt or buy another engine, please, as at this point, i'm a bit confused, knowing the engine 'starts fine' now, except that it kind of "misses" at 3000 rpm?

Cheers
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troopermatter
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 17:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've come with some funny news after having removed the Crank Position Sensor...

Well, it wasn't an easy task to remove the CKP sensor. Had to squeeze my hand between the fuel filter housing, the exhaust pipe and the torsion bar. The hardest part of it was to catch the 10 bolt with a short spanner. Then, the sensor came out pretty easly. Well, in fact, I found that there was no O-ring in the sensor... Plus, there was some, perhaps, "contact grease" in the sensor's connector. Moreover, I beleive the sensor has been grinded and really played with. I'll try and load some pics to compare the CKP sensor and the CAM position sensor, also removed. I just don't know how to upload the images ??
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